Time To Change Engine

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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

right thanks. just have to get the gauge now, whats the best gauge electric or capillary.
freshly painted 1275cc anda very loud big bore exhaust
bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Capillary! Better by FAR!
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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

thanks im watchin a couple now. gona get a water temp gauge as well hopefully. :D
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bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Good idea -again capillary is best - but need to be SURE the tube isn't burst - otherwise useless.
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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

just asked the guy selling it and he said he tested it by puttin the end of it in a cup of boiling water and the needle moved. so i think i will be bidding thanks for you help :D
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bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Should be ok - good luck.
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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

found out cylinder number 3 i think isnt getting a spark. i took the ht lead off and tryed running, when i take it off there no diffrence unlike the others.. but when i take the spark plug out there is a spark, what could cause this,
thanks tom
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bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Bad plug ? Burned valve - or valve gap closed up ?
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linearaudio

Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by linearaudio »

Sounds like a burned valve- compression check will show if it is.
hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

just an update psl was right. the head gasket had gone but it not just that. it has made a hole on the block in between the pistons. ive bin told this cant be fixed so i am better putting new engine in.[frame]Image[/frame] you can see the mark on the pik
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rayofleamington
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by rayofleamington »

[[oops - didn't notice page 2 of the thread!]]

I'm pretty sure someone already said head gasket...
That would explain low power, knocking and running very rough.

Crankshaft wear i.e. a damaged big end wouldn't make it run on 2 cylinders - unless the crank is broken!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Well - that 'hole in the block' was either there before - or you ran the car on two cylinders for more than a couple of minutes! It can be fixed - but will involve a complete strip down - and then skimming a few thou off the top of the block. If the pistons then stick up (but they won't unless you take off more than ~ 20 thou) - then they too would need a slight skim to keep them at best flush with the block. The head will need skimming too! New engine time - meantime!!
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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

almost got all the parts for it. just need the bends for the manifold and a dizzy cap and a crank rear oil seal. :) :)

would this be the right cap http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 33864d3bf5
thank tom
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bmcecosse
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by bmcecosse »

Should be! The crank doesn't have a 'rear oil seal' - it's just the same scroll/labyrinth arrangement as other A series - and relies on good crankcase ventilation to work properly.
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hotrodder13
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Re: Time To Change Engine

Post by hotrodder13 »

sorted the cap. just finished stripping the 1098 so its easier to come out, :D
freshly painted 1275cc anda very loud big bore exhaust
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