Window not quite closing

[rupert]

After I rebuilt Molly's drivers door, I don't seem to be able to get the window closed properly. It will got up to about 10mm from the frame so there is a little gap (and I have a soggy foot well in the morning!). I don't want to force it (I've bent enough winder mechanisms that way...). I have tried it with the winder disconneted and the glass doesn't want to fit that far up the frame. It looks as though there is a screw in the way. Is there any adustment I can do?

The window/door carcass/door frame combination is not original, I have been doing some mixing an matching!

Oh its a 4 door with stainless door frames by the way.

any help gratefully apreciated!

Rupert

[IaininTenbury]

Hi,
i'd check the screws where the rear part of the door frame joins the top with the little angle bracket. They shouldnt really project into the window runner area. Also the felt channel that the glass runs in should be trimmed out at the end where it goes over the angle bracket, so its just two sides and the base is gone - like a forked end. If you leave it solid over the angle bracket the extra thickness can stop the glass from going right up.
Hope thats some help.

[mike.perry]

Check that you haven't run out of travel on the winder gear wheel. Keep your fingers out of the way.

[rupert]

Check that you haven't run out of travel on the winder gear wheel. Keep your fingers out of the way.

thanks for the help. I assume that the arm would be almost vertical if I had run out of travel? I don't remember there being much adjustment in the position of the winder mechanism.

Rupert

[rupert]

Hi,
i'd check the screws where the rear part of the door frame joins the top with the little angle bracket. They shouldnt really project into the window runner area. Also the felt channel that the glass runs in should be trimmed out at the end where it goes over the angle bracket, so its just two sides and the base is gone - like a forked end. If you leave it solid over the angle bracket the extra thickness can stop the glass from going right up.
Hope thats some help.

Hi Iain
I think I need to look at the corner brackets and screws. I seem to remember its almost impossible to get the screws out though!

thanks for the help and suggestions

Rupert

[katy]

I'm having the same problem after having installed new felt channels, on ours the glass stops at the angle bracket, about 30 mm from the top. Both the front and rear edges of the glass are stopped. I'm considering taking the glass to a glass shop and having them grind about 3 mm off of both edges of the glass, just enough so it will clear. I considered cutting the channels back but I didn't like the idea of the glass hitting the metal corner brackets.

[aupickup]

the glass will not hit the metal bracket , its fine to cut the felt

[IaininTenbury]

If you find an original one, the felt will be trimmed out at the end, so worth checking that first. I normally find that cures it

[autolycus]

I'm considering taking the glass to a glass shop and having them grind about 3 mm off of both edges of the glass

Don't forget that it's toughened glass, so may well shatter if they try to grind too much off. I had a new door glass made for another classic, and they left two sharp corners by mistake. Took it back, expecting them to have to make a new one, and although they managed to radius it OK, they said it was touch and go whether it would shatter.

Kevin

[katy]

Well, I dropped into a glass shop yesterday and they quoted me $50 (about £30) to grind each window, ouch. I figured that was a bit much, so I will go the "trim the channel" route. I probably paint the exposed metal parts with flat black so it's not too obvious.