LED Flashers

[David53]

A friend travelling behind recently me pointed out that the indicators I have fitted (early traveller orange lenses) were very hard to see in the bright Aussie sunshine.

So I have fitted LED Festoon bulbs into them which have 6 LED panels on each. I also replaced the thermal flasher can with a "No Load" unit. The indicators work fine and are really nice and bright (prob 3 times as bright as conventional bulbs) but they do flicker a little as they cycle on and off, despite using a No Load unit. The original bulbs on this flasher unit do not flicker at all.

Any ideas? Can I wire some sort of load across each indicator to replicate the resistance of a normal bulb? If so, how?

[bmcecosse]

Just wire a 21 watt 'flasher' bulb into the circuit ? It could be under the bonnet where not visible !
I have to laugh though - you have one of the oldest Minors which you fight hard to keep 'original' - and now it's got LED flashers !

[Jefftav]

When you buy these LED lamps in Halfords they sell you a resistor in the packaging, just thought I would say in case you can get something similar in Aus. BMC's suggestion is also a good one and probable a lot cheaper.

[MarkyB]

I believe the resistor is there to fool the "bulb out" warning systems on modern cars as they won't detect enough resistance from an LED and give a false reading.

It might also help with your problem and someone who knows about this stuff should be along shortly.

[David53]

Thanks for the advice.

However, I don't see why it's so funny. My car IS very original - there are only two departures from original spec. Seat Belts and Flasher units, both essential for safety in modern city traffic. Even then the flasher units I fitted were from a Traveller so as to be as "original" as was possible. And the LED bulbs are not detectable from the outside.

Not much point spending ten years and a lot of money restoring a car if someone slams into me and writes it off because they couldn't see I was turning right!

[bmcecosse]

Use hand signals! I was only yanking your chain David!! The ordinary (Trav type) flashers (and rear lights) can be made much brighter - by fitting a little collar of 'chrome' plastic around the bulb shank - this reflects the light back - and makes a HUGE improvement in rear light power without the complication and cost of LED units.

[forbesg]

The indicators work fine and are really nice and bright (prob 3 times as bright as conventional bulbs) but they do flicker a little as they cycle on and off, despite using a No Load unit.

Sounds like a fault in the flasher. However you could put a small capacitor in the across the supply line and see if that helps.

FYI: I built a flasher using a 555 timer for my LEDs. Found that it ran beautifully when the cars was not running, but all over the place with the engine going. I put a scope on the supply and found that I was getting 20V transients. When I replaced the mechanical dizzy for an electronic one, problem disappeared. I spend alot of time trying to filter the power supply, but never got a practical solution.

[mike.perry]

I have also used Traveller rear indicator units on my MM. It is important to angle the lights so that they are as near vertical as possible for maximum visibility. Many people fit them to the rear wings so that they are pointing at the sky.
I take it that if they can't see your indicators then they have even more problems with the trafficators. Can you fit LEDs in them?

[alanworland]

forbesg, interesting what you found with your scope! I used to have probs with my alarm setting itself while travelling - 20v spikes I dont suppose is in its operating spec!

[mike.perry]

I remember your alarm problems!!!!

[David53]

Mine are just above the stop lamps



I have the LED's angled vertically, they are very visible now just need to solve the flickering problem. Trafficators run off a seperate switch (The original white handled one). People can see 'em no problem but I think most people don't know what they mean!

Also, the clockwork mechanism in the switch has long since given up the ghost so I have to hold it on with my finger. Anyone have a replacement switch they would loike to get rid off? 90 Pounds at ESM, bit too rich for me

[mike.perry]

The indicators on your rear wings are pointing upwards too much. You can see the difference in the brightness if you look from behind and then look directly down on them. the best solution is to make a plinth to mount them on so that they point directly backwards.
Trafficators are a lot easier to see on a four door than on a two door but still not very bright. The timer switch was only used on the four door, it is probably easier to replace it with the simpler left/right flick switch from the two door. You are right, the price does seem very expensive but you should be able to get a two door switch for a reasonable cost from MMOC club spares.
The trafficators and indicators can be operated from one switch if you follow the wiring diagram on the Series MM website, tech. info.

[ferret76]

I have the plinths fitted. Available from ESM, reasonably easy to fit and certainly make a difference as to visibility.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Have to say - looks much better without the plinths! Perhaps if they weren't black...........

[autolycus]

Agreed - but period reversing lights with orange lamps (filament or LED) look better still, imho.

Kevin

[ferret76]

Have to say - looks much better without the plinths! Perhaps if they weren't black...........

Yes, unfortunately they are rubber so can't be painted.

[David53]

The LED's are angled perfectly vertically, which I think acheives the same result as having the lights on plinths as they shine directly backwards.

[bmcecosse]

Except - the bee-hive lenses (well - proper Traveller glass ones anyway) are designed to collect and transmit light in a straight line vertical to the base of the lens. But if it works for you - that's all that matters!

[littleblackflash]

Can I ask? What is a no load flasher?

[autolycus]

Can I ask? What is a no load flasher?

Traditional flasher units require the right current to flow through them to operate at the correct speed, or even at all. LED clusters take much lower current than the 3.5 A of a pair of filament lamps.

You can buy several types of "electronic" flasher units, which will flash regardless of low current load, e.g. from Autosparks. Note the warning about negative earth only, though most LED lamps are also made for negative earth only.

Kevin