sputter
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sputter
Hi,
My minor, which has run trouble-free for years, suddenly started to sputter and ground to a halt within a few miles. I initially thought about the fuel pump as it didn't seem to click nicely. As I took it out I realised that the connector had corroded. I fitted a new one, and while I was there took out the fuel filter and the inlet and outlet. Everything looked fine inside.
I fitted the pump back to the car and when I turned the ignition on it gave a very nice click-click-click. The engine started almost the first time then started to sputter again and stalled. Tried a few more time, a few sputters then nothing.
I'm not sure whether this is related to the cold weather, but I was surprised at how suddenly the problem came. Any idea? Could it be a dust spec in the carburettor or some ice from condensation? I tried to heat the carburettor with a hair-dryer for a while but no luck (the car sits outside).
What do you suggest to check next?
Regards
My minor, which has run trouble-free for years, suddenly started to sputter and ground to a halt within a few miles. I initially thought about the fuel pump as it didn't seem to click nicely. As I took it out I realised that the connector had corroded. I fitted a new one, and while I was there took out the fuel filter and the inlet and outlet. Everything looked fine inside.
I fitted the pump back to the car and when I turned the ignition on it gave a very nice click-click-click. The engine started almost the first time then started to sputter again and stalled. Tried a few more time, a few sputters then nothing.
I'm not sure whether this is related to the cold weather, but I was surprised at how suddenly the problem came. Any idea? Could it be a dust spec in the carburettor or some ice from condensation? I tried to heat the carburettor with a hair-dryer for a while but no luck (the car sits outside).
What do you suggest to check next?
Regards
1970 4-door saloon

Re: sputter
Check your rotor arm (replace with another one as they are cheap enough anyway and try to get an old one not one of the new types). Whilst you are in the dizzy check / replace points and condensor. It sounds electrical to me rather than fuel related as fuel issues tend to just STOP the car rather than splutter....
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Re: sputter
I'm with him^^^^! Condenser would be a prime contender-for the price, replace it as it isn't that easy to actually check.
Not likely to be carb related if you have the original hot-spot manifold, and there is precious little in the carb to get blocked if the car is in regular use(a different matter if the carb stands with fuel in it unused for a couple of years!)
Not likely to be carb related if you have the original hot-spot manifold, and there is precious little in the carb to get blocked if the car is in regular use(a different matter if the carb stands with fuel in it unused for a couple of years!)
Re: sputter
Could be ice formed in the petrol tank - I would try pumping some fuel through the pump into a container. Not just a few spurts - a good pint! Also - sure it wasn't just icing in the carb ?



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Re: sputter
You haven't fitted a new petrol cap with no breather have you? With a full tank of petrol a vacuum would soon be created which would cause the engine to stop.
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Re: sputter
Right I'm going to change all the ignition bits first; I have a spare service kit. Is it worth spraying WD40 inside the distributor or just outside?
Regard
Regard
1970 4-door saloon

Re: sputter
Just work through systematically. Random component-swapping and spraying snake-oil may get an engine going (often just because the time it's taken has allowed flooding to clear, and the battery to recuperate), but you still won't know where the problem lay, or whether it will return.
These cars are for real mechanics, not unit-swappers. If you've got a half-decent spark at all four plugs when they're resting on the head, and fuel in the float chamber, then only gross mechanical failure will stop an engine that was running yesterday from running today. Intermittent faults, or poor running, can be difficult to trace, but getting an A-series to run at all isn't rocket science.
If you've not got a spark at the plugs, then it's just a case of working through the simple stuff. Start at either end - you can check whether you've got a spark at the king lead, and so on, or you can make sure you've got 12v at the distributor with the points open dropping to zero with them closed. All good basic stuff.
SU carburettors so rarely go wrong until bodgers have a go at them that unless they are visibly flooding they can usually be assumed OK. Wonderful devices.
Kevin
These cars are for real mechanics, not unit-swappers. If you've got a half-decent spark at all four plugs when they're resting on the head, and fuel in the float chamber, then only gross mechanical failure will stop an engine that was running yesterday from running today. Intermittent faults, or poor running, can be difficult to trace, but getting an A-series to run at all isn't rocket science.
If you've not got a spark at the plugs, then it's just a case of working through the simple stuff. Start at either end - you can check whether you've got a spark at the king lead, and so on, or you can make sure you've got 12v at the distributor with the points open dropping to zero with them closed. All good basic stuff.
SU carburettors so rarely go wrong until bodgers have a go at them that unless they are visibly flooding they can usually be assumed OK. Wonderful devices.
Kevin
Re: sputter
Some have reported expolsion inside the dizzy when spraying inside with wd40. Just clean it very carefully - inside and out - and by all means a wipe over with a cloth wet with wd40.



Re: sputter
If you have no luck with the points/condensor and rotor arm, try the coil. Its been a few years now, but after renewing my dizzy parts time and time again, I finally diagnosed a faulty coil. Straight swap resolved the issue.
Re: sputter
It's very rarely the coil - loose connections at the coil, maybe - but the coils themselves generally either work perfectly - or fail completely.



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Re: sputter
I had trouble with a coil that had rivetted terminals which worked loose. Cured with a hammer and punch.
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Re: sputter
Just a thought , .. I wonder how many fuel caps are covered in snow and perhaps the breather has frozen up??mike.perry wrote:You haven't fitted a new petrol cap with no breather have you? With a full tank of petrol a vacuum would soon be created which would cause the engine to stop.

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Re: sputter
Sorted... the capacitor was the culprit. I nearly sunk into despair when after fitting the new capacitor I got no spark at all. Then I realised I'd done the unforgivable mistake of attaching the leads to the wrong side of the nylon washer on the contact breaker
It's running as smooth as silk now. Thank you for the good advice.
Regards
Pascal

It's running as smooth as silk now. Thank you for the good advice.
Regards
Pascal
1970 4-door saloon
