Master cylinder removal

Post by **jonathon** » Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:44 pm

You could always use a half nut and trim the thread as per BM's suggestion. Must admit, we have done loads of these and as you say simply pack the bolt head, no issues so far in 16 years.
BM , can you make that train go backwards as per your avatar.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:49 pm

That's the thing - this site doesn't have an 'avatar'. 'They' can't get it working!!
But I'm not planning on going backwards - I'm 'looking back' to the Guard - who will give me the 'right away' - to go forwards - with his green flag and whistle!
And no - the little train is just for Christmas - and I have no control over it whatsoever!

Post by **jonathon** » Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:50 pm

Ohh !

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Dec 26, 2009 9:03 pm

However it would appear that if you pack the bolt head out or shorten so none protrudes from the standard nut, then there is not an actual problem.

That's what I did on my first Minor 20 years ago... but eventually the nuts started to groove the torsion bar.
If a car is doing low mileage it's not hard to keep everything in good condition, but when I was doing over 20,000 miles a year, the eyebolt bushes and tie bar bushes had a lot of use, and that all adds to the issue.
When doing 20k a year, I had to rebuild the suspension to replace the eyebolt bushes for the MOT many years in a row:( The m/c failed mid winter (as they tend to do) and I wasn't in the mood to remove the suspension, as I needed the car for work the next day.

Bending the torsion bar needs to be done very carefully - when doing it, I use pliers etc.. to get to the bolts. It's not advisable to put your fingers in the way in case the torsion bar slips off the lever

The best way is to use a long bolt to push the old bolt right through, avoiding your hands from being in the torsion bar area.
I've never had one slip off, but it would be a crying shame to loose a finger in the process!

Post by **RogerRust** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:41 am

I'm sure it is possible to put the bolt in the wrong way round. It's OK if care is taken with good engineering practice.

BUT, once and for all, please can we stop recommending it because there are a lot of people out there who have no idea about good practice. And inevitably will just fit it the wrong way round and complain when the torsion bar snaps and the loose end digs into the tarmac causing an accident.

You only change the master cylinder once in a lifetime so what is the hassle of doing it right?

Roger gets back off his soap box.

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:56 am

Sort of agree with you Roger, but I'm more worried about the advice on 'learning' how to weld on cars, refurbishing brakes,re sealing m/c's etc , filling lever arm dampers with different oil, home resprays etc etc, much of which surface as bad practice when reading some members home restorations.
Fitting two bolts with a spacer hardly requires engineering prowess, but the person doing this needs to heed the advice given on here. I'm sure that if they cannot be trusted to fit two bolts, then its pure folly to then ask them to strip down the torsion bars/suspension.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 11:18 am

And since RR doesn't have a Minor anyway................

I think that tackling a master cylinder exchange will not be for the faint-hearted . So I imagine anyone doing it will have enough savvy to understand the problems of bolt ends/nuts snagging the T bar.

As for 'oil in dampers' - some of our beloved suppliers sell heavier grade damper oil specifically for the purpose (although SAE 30 or 40 engine oil is fine) and 750MC have been doing it to their cars for ~ 60 years now! It's well documented in their literature and a well established practice.

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:00 pm

bmcecosse wrote: As for 'oil in dampers' - some of our beloved suppliers sell heavier grade damper oil specifically for the purpose (although SAE 30 or 40 engine oil is fine) and 750MC have been doing it to their cars for ~ 60 years now! It's well documented in their literature and a well established practice.

Yes.........., I agree BM, but if we are being careful in what we suggest then this is not 'original' spec, in the same way as the bolts being fitted the 'wrong' way around.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:07 pm

yes thats what i was referring to original spec

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 1:23 pm

Ahh - so no 'improvements' allowed!

Got it now.
Hope no-one suggests fitting radial ply tyres!

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 1:47 pm

now you are taking it out of context

i taught joinery for a few years and i allways taught them txt book methods

and sure i can teach any one short cuts

Post by **les** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:01 pm

Ahh - so no 'improvements' allowed! Got it now

I don't think you have 'got it' Roy! Really can't imagine that you think, for example ,that fitting bolts the wrong way is an 'improvement'! I know you and others have done it and good luck, but come on it's not making things better!

Post by **millerman** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:10 pm

Anyway, adblock has got rid of the train

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:12 pm

Dohh, I thought it might just topple over if it went any faster. He likes his trains though, ahhhh

bless

Post by **les** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:19 pm

I'm hoping that train has been assembled wrong!

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:20 pm

you mean improved , surely

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:21 pm

The bolts are just fitted a 'better' way - it IS an improvement -in terms of future serviceability! Think positive lads!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:23 pm

Ok - own up - who broke the train - it's not going round anymore!

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:24 pm

Aye ,Aye Cap'n Mannering, toot ,toot

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:25 pm

wish there was a river the train could fall in