Anyone ever have this problem?

Post by **ADO16** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:09 am

I thought I would wait until this spring to expedite my panels for the 51 MM due to having seasonal work and the expense of purchase/shipping, so I decided to start the engine strip down process but came up against the first challenge. When I started to take off the water chest covers bolts the first one started to just turn and turn right after I thought it started to loosen up but not the case. It just doesn't want to come out and I'm now reluctant to continue towards the rest of them. What is actually behind the cover?

Any thoughts?
P.S. This is the first time for a sidevalve.

Post by **MarkyB** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:48 am

Not sure what "water chest covers" are but it sounds like the thread has stripped.
Did it loosen enough to get something under the head?
If so you can try levering it out while turning.

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:29 am

The problem with the water jacket as with the drain tap and thermostat housings, is that it is alloy and corrodes very easily, especially if there is insufficient antifreeze or corrosion inhibitor on the cooling system. This corrosion then affects the securing bolts which screw into the block. You have probably stripped the thread, hopefully on the bolt and not the block.
I would recommend soaking the bolts in penetrating oil and then trying again.
Note that the threads in the block are metric fine so do not try to force a BSF or UNF bolt into them.
As far as I am aware the supplier of the water jackets has sold his stock but MMOC club spares may have some left

Post by **RobThomas** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:16 am

I'll TRY to get a photo of the affected are later this morning. The threads do suffer from corrosion, obviously but you might also find the bolt shaft corroding and swelling so that it no longer fits through the hole in the casting. Might be worth grinding the heads off, heating the alloy and trying to get the casting off complete before exposing the studs for a good soaking.

Post by **RobThomas** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:33 am

Oh well. Too cold to do anything else this morning! You can also see the engine number.<br>

<br>

Post by **ADO16** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:20 pm

This is exactly what the problem is! At this point I think grinding the bolt heads off will be the best way.
I want to say how much I appreciate all your time to help out a fellow Morris guy...thank you all again. I hope one day I can return the favors.

Steve

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:08 pm

If you have any other problems with your rebuild, do not hesitate to ask.
In antisipation of you removing the valves, do not forget to stuff all the oil drainage holes in the tappet chest with rag or you will be searching for valve collets in the bottom of the engine. Take great care of the collets, loose one and your rebuild will be *&^%*£!!!
Have you got the correct spring compressor?

Post by **ADO16** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:55 pm

mike.perry wrote:If you have any other problems with your rebuild, do not hesitate to ask.
In antisipation of you removing the valves, do not forget to stuff all the oil drainage holes in the tappet chest with rag or you will be searching for valve collets in the bottom of the engine. Take great care of the collets, loose one and your rebuild will be *&^%*£!!!
Have you got the correct spring compressor?

Thanks for that Mike. Any idea where I can get a spring compressor?

Steve

Post by **alanworland** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:26 pm

I had the rear water chest bolt sieze up and shear off!
When I removed the cover I made a drill jig, secured by the existing good bolt holes and drilled out the back hole and re tapped it (got a feeling I tapped all holes larger, but I can't remember now!
Have a good rake around and loosen up all the muck for a good flush out! I was amazed what was in the corners.

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:28 pm

The spring compressor is special tool 18G270, no idea where you can get one but this is what it looks like <br>

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Post by **leyther8008** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 8:00 am

I,m sure I've got a proprietory version of one of those stashed in my garage somewhere I will check tonight.

Post by **ADO16** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 3:50 pm

What would make them different from a A-series spring compressor? It does look as though it's a bit bigger. If the A- series compressor won't work I will have to find one in the UK that is for sale, or will it be put on the "Hens Teeth" list? Maybe some old V8 guy here in the states might have something that's close.

Post by **leyther8008** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:15 pm

This is the version I,ve got.

<a href="http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s54/ ... GP0944.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s54/ ... GP0944.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

As you can see its adjustable for depth. should work.

I reckon there must be an equivalent version for your old flat head motors over there but If you get real stuck your welcome to this one, my flathead days are over! (Unless I find a V8 pilot in need of a good home!!)

I also guess it would be in the New year as I'm away over the holidays
cost you the freight costs.

All the best
Bern

Post by **ADO16** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:30 pm

leyther8008 wrote:This is the version I,ve got.

<a href="http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s54/ ... GP0944.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s54/ ... GP0944.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

As you can see its adjustable for depth. should work.

I reckon there must be an equivalent version for your old flat head motors over there but If you get real stuck your welcome to this one, my flathead days are over! (Unless I find a V8 pilot in need of a good home!!)

I also guess it would be in the New year as I'm away over the holidays
cost you the freight costs.

All the best
Bern

Bern,

I will definitely keep that in mind if I can't find one. If you get a Pilot I can just ship it back to you! Thank you and have a wonderful holiday!!!

Kind regards,
Steve

Post by **mike.perry** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 8:54 pm

The Series MM compressor is designed so that the bottom of the spring and cap fit securely in the forks when the spring is compressed, making it easier to remove the collets without them getting stuck under the forks. The compressor also has the correct reach.
I have used the compressor illusrated above and had to take great care to stop the forks moving on the spring cap and the collets flying off into the darkest corners of the garage or knocking the carefully balanced collets off the valve stem when trying to re assemble the valves.
Would it be possible to make the MM compressor if I supplied the dimensions?

Post by **ADO16** » Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:17 am

mike.perry wrote:The Series MM compressor is designed so that the bottom of the spring and cap fit securely in the forks when the spring is compressed, making it easier to remove the collets without them getting stuck under the forks. The compressor also has the correct reach.
I have used the compressor illusrated above and had to take great care to stop the forks moving onthe spring cap and the collets flying off into the darkest corners of the garage.
Would it be possible to make the MM compressor if I supplied the dimensions?

Hi Mike,

It might not be impossible but finding the right person around here would be the challenge. I know a machinist in Seattle that might be able to make me one if I had the dimensions so I'm game! He works as a tool maker for the Boeing Aircraft Plant plus he's a gear head, I will ask him.
Thank you.

Steve

Post by **Scott** » Thu Dec 24, 2009 2:33 am

I've always just used a regular OHV valve spring compressor. Mind you, I have only ever done this with the engine out (saves the back & neck).