fuel problems maybe?
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glad you've fixed it - it couldn't have been anything other than fuel related from the description.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
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Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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tried the carb today, the piston lifts with a little resistance (from the oil in the dash pot presumably) and then drops back down.
i have checked the needle and its nice and straight, though i have realised that when the engine is off, the carb float is flat down against the jet, and when the car is started, is still remains flat down against the jet, HOWEVER when i undo the damper pot cover, the whole pison raises slightly and the car starts.
any particular reason why this is causing the car not to start with the dashpot cover screwed in?
i have checked the needle and its nice and straight, though i have realised that when the engine is off, the carb float is flat down against the jet, and when the car is started, is still remains flat down against the jet, HOWEVER when i undo the damper pot cover, the whole pison raises slightly and the car starts.
any particular reason why this is causing the car not to start with the dashpot cover screwed in?
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thats the problem, i have no idea why its sticking. i have had the whole thing in bits today, changed all the seals, cleaned the whole thing in lovely clean petrol, reassembled and gone for a drive, went into the shop, came out and it did exactly the same thing, which was solved by undoing the dash pot cap and it started fine.
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It should clonk.
The "nice smooth action" is the needle binding in the jet.
I think you loosen the jet holder a bit, tap the carb then tighten it up again.
Have a look at these:http://www.sucarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=35
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxVFCY_1 ... re=related
You DON'T need to dismantle the carb, just do the centring bit.
The "nice smooth action" is the needle binding in the jet.
I think you loosen the jet holder a bit, tap the carb then tighten it up again.
Have a look at these:http://www.sucarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=35
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxVFCY_1 ... re=related
You DON'T need to dismantle the carb, just do the centring bit.
Just check the little damper on the rod end. It should have some 'free lift' - in fact I believe there used to be a range of different dampers with different free lift. BMC certainly specified particular free lift (usually 90 thou) on the Works Minis - but of course they may have made that by slightly modifying standard units. The point is - this free lift allows the main piston to rise slightly before the damping effects come into action. So just check that little piston on the end of the rod is free to move up and down slightly.



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i have fiddled witht the jet and their is now a satisfying clunk as the piston hits the bottom. as for the damper on the rod end, it has free lift, i replaced the whole rod and damper initially as i thought it was this which was knackered, but its still doing the same thing.
its got me stumped really, as the carb is clean, jet centred, no blockages and everything is nice and clean and set up right, plus the carb its self is about 3 years old, so it couldnt of broken completly in that amount of time
its got me stumped really, as the carb is clean, jet centred, no blockages and everything is nice and clean and set up right, plus the carb its self is about 3 years old, so it couldnt of broken completly in that amount of time
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