newbies

Post by **!aj!** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:29 pm

Hi all, just a swift intro, i've just bought a '56 splitscreen for my far better half

She drove it 90 miles home with some problems. Stopped in a lay-by and had some problem starting again but it did. Then a mile from home, on an uphill slip road, she died and would not even turn over. Got her going again with a push start and she struggled onto drive.

She will not turn over now but i don't suspect the battery as lights, wipers etc are fine. When trying to start, the ignition lights dim but there is no other noise i.e clicking from fuel pump i've read about. As far as i know she is the standard 803 set-up although she has been converted to unleaded. The wiring looks original (and by that i mean casing frayed) so could be a connection.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, what is the best manual for the car? I do not exactly trust Haynes and i do not know if they cover the 803 model anyway.

I am thinking of an engine upgrade on this and also indicators, on the rear at least.

The fun starts here...

Cheers, Andy

Post by **MColes** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:37 pm

Welcome to the forum

It is worth reading this thread HERE

In regards to a manual there is someone on here who is on holiday at the moment who could possibly help. I'm sure he'll PM you with advice when he is back.

In regards to engine the 803 isn't the best it just depends what you want to use the car for and how original you want to keep it.

From experience don't go drilling holes in the bodywork to fit indicators. If you can, mount them under the bumper, Tin worm will set in wherever it can if you start making holes in the bodywork

Any questions ask away. Someone ALWAYS knows the answer

Post by **PSL184** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:33 pm

Sounds like the battery is not getting a charge so I would start with the dynamo and work back from there....

Post by **beechford** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:39 am

did i read your post correctly no ticking niose well there could be an answer petrol pump should tick consistently with engine running.give it a sharp rap and see if that makes a difference. others will come by with more detailed instruction but stick to simple things first.

Post by **!aj!** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:48 am

Right, i thought it was meant to tick pre-ignition. (I am no expert in these matters, just going off what i've read on similar threads) I really need a manual because i don't know what i'm looking at in terms of dynamo, solenoid etc etc.
I think i might be investing in a voltmeter/ multimeter thingy but no experience of using one, any recommendations? (I've a Maplins quite local)
The other thing whilst looking around the forum someone mentioned they had work done at a Moggie specialist in Manchester. Does anyone know that garage? Or can recommend one?

Cheers

Post by **Dean** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:43 pm

Does Manchester have a local MMOC club meet? As a newbie, I'm sure they would be very please to help you out.

Post by **PSL184** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:17 pm

Start with the basics first. Check all battery connections (and cables to and from battery to starter soleniod and starter) are clean and firmly attached. It is good practice to remove the connections and clean up with a wire brush then apply a smidge of vaseline before you reconnect them. Leave the battery earth off whilst you are doing this and refit it last. Go to Maplins and buy just a basic multimeter (about £10 I would guess). This will do you for basic checks on the battery voltage and current consumption. The check if the battery is charging, simply set the meter to read volts and put one probe on each battery terminal. With engine running you should see 13.5 - 14.0 volts. With engine off the battery should read 12.5 volts. Any leass than that you will either have a dead battery or a non functioning charging circuit. The fuel pump should start to tick with ign on and will tick every 5 - 10 secs with engine running. Come back after some more investigation and we'll advise further.....

Post by **beechford** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 7:55 am

thats the ticket dont blind him with too many maybes. would suggest mmoc manual on cd for sevice/ repairs and posts on this site for more detailed running repairs. good luck .Merry Christmas to all our readers

Post by **Jefftav** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:22 am

Hi aj, welcome to the fold.

There is a company called "Leadbetters" near Chorley 01257 275314 but not sure how far this is from you.

Have a tinker yourself you can't really do any harm and as others have suggested suspect the dynamo, fuel pump, dirty electrical connections and the points in the distributor. You could also ask the seller if any parts have been replaced recently as this might help you track things down a bit quicker.

Post by **ASL642** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:01 am

Andy welcome to this site! We have an Owner's Club Branch in Manchester. Contact Tony Price on 01four77 535zero17. He should be able to point you in the right direction a regards a local garage and help you with the car.

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:20 am

It is perfectly normal for a newly purchased Minor to break down on the way home, they don't like changing drivers. Give it a couple of weeks and it will get used to you.
Every Minor owner should have a BMC Workshop Manual, available 2nd hand at autojumbles or try Pooks Bookshop on line.
If you want to fit indicators and keep the trafficators working there is a wiring diagram on the Series MM website http://seriesmm.mmoc.org.uk. Click on Tech Info then Trafficator Wiring Diagram. Attaching the indicators under the bumpers is probably the neatest position

Post by **!aj!** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 8:20 pm

Cheers for the welcome and advice.
I'm looking for a garage to change the engine although it can wait till after xmas. I've seen replacement looms with wiring for indicators but i don't want to change anything that will need to be changed again for the bigger engine, if that makes any sense.
First thing is to get it running as is, although the weather is hampering that - i'm just a big northern softie...

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:26 pm

You will not have to change the wiring for a different engine, however if the cables are all different shades of black and getting brittle then a new loom might be worth the investment, especially if previous owners have added non standard wires. Before you change the engine make sure that you have got an 803. you can tell by the circular oil filter canister screwed into the side of the engine, and the lack of performance. You will also need to change the box and diff and also the speedo.

Post by **!aj!** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:02 pm

Hi, just bought a multimeter and tested the battery. She's been stood a good 2 weeks and the battery is still spot on. I don't really understand the starting system so i've just been playing around and was getting the same reading all over.
I got fed up of that so tried to start her on the crank and she fired up, ran ok until i started to mess around with the choke and died. The fuel pump is ticking away. Tried to start her normally and there was this low groaning noise as is something was trying to happen. Tried with the crank again and no joy this time.

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:28 pm

What were the battery voltage readings both with engine off and engine running?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:33 pm

PM sent! Try jump leads from another car - or charge up the battery and try again.

Post by **!aj!** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:12 pm

Had another go. Ignition off battery reading 12.15. Tried to start normally again and low sort of groan. Tried to crank and eventually she burst into life. Tested battery and got a reading of around 14. Engine then suggested it was going to stall so bit more choke. Fine. Then again nearly stalled, so full choke. Fine. And then it stalled.

Oh, and did i mention i hate cars!!!

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:18 pm

As the engine runs you need to close the choke, not open it. Too much fuel will flood the engine and cause a stall! Voltage readings sound OK (ish) but does suggest charge is OK so next check is to remove and clean all battery connections, soleniod connections and starter connections. If these are OK then the battery is duff. Get someone to turn the Key whilst you hold the meter on the battery and see what the voltage drops to.....

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:26 pm

If the engine dies when you push the choke in then either you are not letting the engine warm up enough or the tickover speed is probably too slow. You can speed this up by adjusting the vertical one of the two small screws at the side of the carb.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:19 pm

Or at least - just 'catch' it on the throttle for now until it gets warmed up and puts some charge into that battery. The 12.15 reading suggests it is well down - needs a good charging. The 14 reading suggests the charging system is working just fine!