rebuild

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cadetchris
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rebuild

Post by cadetchris »

probably a daft question,
but would increased fuel and oil consumption, as well as a plume of blue smoke when i accelerate hard, indicate that its time for a cylinder head rebuild?
ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

When you accelerate hard blue smoke. Add rings to your list.
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
PSL184
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Re: rebuild

Post by PSL184 »

cadetchris wrote:that its time for a cylinder head rebuild?
Nope - a full engine rebuild :wink:
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andrew.searston
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Post by andrew.searston »

bit more than a head rebuild unfortunatly
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cadetchris
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Post by cadetchris »

i believe the word is "nuts" really not what i can be doing with.
if i remember rightly, its possible to replace the rings with the engine still in, by just dropping the sump, removing the con rods and pushing them up through the block (with the head off or course)
ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

Hello Chris

You could try replacing the rings if you want to get a few more miles out of it. Make sure all the breather hoses are unblocked.

Change the oil cap as it is also a breather.

The oil rings could be blocked with gunk.

There is no harm in changing the oil and going from there.

Jamie
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Run a compression check on the engine. As suggested above - if you make sure one of the breathers is connected to the intake system - either at the carb or directly to the inlet manifold - it can help with oil consumption and blue smoke. Head rebuild will do nothing useful. Try rings if you wish - but - probably money down the pan.
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ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

I have know this to happen before.

Car with oil that is black and dirty. All breathers blocked up. Dirty Air filter. Blocked dirty oil filter.

Jamie
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
cadetchris
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Post by cadetchris »

ill do a compression check tomorrow morning, as for all the breathers, they are all nice a clear and attached, air filter is new, new oil filter and not that many drips from the bottom of the engine,
what should the compression be?
ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

what engine size is it
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
cadetchris
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Post by cadetchris »

1098
ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

A range from 130-160 is what you are looking for. i await someone more experianced to correct me :)
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
linearaudio

Post by linearaudio »

ssnjimb wrote:A range from 130-160 is what you are looking for. i await someone more experianced to correct me :)
I reckon he's out playing "trains" tonight :lol:
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Nah - watching Scalextric! I agree - 130 would be about the minimum for a pretty knackered engine - 160 is ok for an average engine - higher is better!
Last edited by bmcecosse on Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ssnjimb
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Post by ssnjimb »

:) i nearly got something right :)
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

The Workshop Manual says 150 psi.
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cadetchris
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Post by cadetchris »

ok, today i did a pressure test, and the results where ad follows:

when running, 70psi and when the engine then is stopped, it jumps to 120psi.
so going by either of these two readings, the compression is a little on the low side
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Post by bmcecosse »

I don't understand - when running ?? Compression test is done with all 4 plugs out - engine hot and battery fully charged. Wedge the throttle open slightly - and then put the tester on each plug hole in turn - and crank the engine over on the starter for 3 seconds on each hole. Note the reading - reset the gauge - nd then test the next one. 120 psi is desperately low - if that's done by the above method.
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cadetchris
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Post by cadetchris »

i thonk i may of done the test completly wrong then,
so, i get the engine all nice and hot, with the battery fully charged.
plugs out,
throttle slightly open
attach guage to plug hole, crank over engine a few times with starter only
note pressure
reset guage
next pot along.
so if my engine is good, then it SHOULD be over 130psi min, if its shot and needs a rebuild its below 130psi and is then in need of new rings and gaskets and the valves grinding in again.
ill go do it again and report back with my findings
katy
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Post by katy »

when running, 70psi and when the engine then is stopped, it jumps to 120psi.
How exactly did you do this test?
Talk slow, think fast!
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