my wheel studs are snapping on my minor what length are they

Post by **ssnjimb** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:58 pm

Hello

Iam going to replace all the wheel studs on my 69 2 door minor

Two have snapped on the passenger side front wheel while doing them up so iam going to replace all of them as a precaution.

What length are the front studs and then the rears.

Jamie

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:42 am

Dunno the exact lengths - byt rears were originally slightly longer because of the half-shaft thickness. Bull Motif certainly sell both lengths. Don't see why the longer rears can't also be fitted at the front. You need to wonder why they are breaking - are YOU tightening them too much - or have they been over tightened in the past ? Is the car on standard wheels - has it ever been on wheels with 100mm metric pcd - which bends the studs out of shape!?

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:11 pm

they might have been gunned up with a air gun in the past
always torque them to 110 newton meters

Post by **eastona** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:38 pm

110

that seams way too tight.

My SAAB is to 110 and I use a 18" torque wrench. I'd never dream of doing that on the Morris.

I use a spider wheelbrace and just do them "tight", I reckon about 60.

You've got me worried that I'm not tightening them up enough.

Andrew

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:10 pm

Now - there we are - that's just the sort of useless/dangerous advice that should NOT be put on the Forum. Some forums have warnings - "if you don't KNOW the answer - don't post"
Anyone following that advice - to torque wheel nuts to 110 newton metres (not 'meters' as stated) - will almost certainly have snapped studs/distorted wheels - or at best - stripped wheel nuts.
The CORRECT torque is 37 to 39 ft lbf - which - if we must have it in daft metric units equates to approx 50 newton metres and NOT 110!!
The Workshop Manual states 5.1 to 5.4 Kg metres - having been written in the happy days before the 'Newton' was invented!

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:10 pm

110 Nm is way too tight - That is about 80 lb/ft and I'm suprised you don't strip the threads at that !!!
50 lb/ft (68 Nm) is most sufficient....

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:24 pm

well when u do the 2 year machanics college course then let me know bmc????.
this is what ive been tought by professionals at tridant college in lemington who cant give duff information.
its the standard torque setting for any car hence garages use this setting.
ive torqued stacks off cars. even on work experiance they told me 110n/m

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:36 pm

Don't fancy that course then! The torque obviously depends on the wheel stud size ! For them to give you 'one setting' advice for ALL cars is just madness! Two year mechanics course ehh! If that's what they are teeching you - it's useless! Not to mention dangerous

I rather think my Mechanical Engineering Degree - and 40 years of Engineering experience - may just trump your 'mechanics' course! At least it taught me that you don't just torque up bolts to a fixed setting - regardless of the size!

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:45 pm

dont have to prove anything to u
no need for that original post
ask any garage
just spoke to my brother who works for a bmw specialist and general cars, including exotic cars and who deals with power flow exhausts torques the wheel nuts to 120n/m
and by the way im shure my tutor will have something to say as he used to work on emergency vechiles police cars ect. who torques wheel nuts to 110n/m
so pothetic that u have nothing better to do but argue over wheel nuts!!!

Post by **eastona** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:48 pm

I'm with BMC on this one, the manual says 37 - 39 lbft which works out as approx 50 - 53 Nm.

It may be OK (in fact essential) for a modern car with wheel bolts, but for a Minor 110 Nm is too tight. Surprised you haven't stripped the threads or snapped a stud.

Andrew
(Also an engineering degree and C Eng. I'd question the wisdom of your lecturers!)

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:48 pm

It's SO dangerous matey! Over torquing weakens the studs - and they snap - wheel comes off - big accident - risk of death! How sad they are teeching you this nonesense. God help us all!

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:56 pm

im agree with not torqueing them that tight on a moggy
but on a modern yes
ive been bought up with working on modern cars. and like i said garages will torque the nuts to that if u take your moggy for a service
or regardless what car u have
and at college im not working on classics but modern cars!!!!!!

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:56 pm

Andrew, honestly mate 110Nm is way too high for Moggie nuts. Modern cars mainly have bolts these days which are much bigger in diameter than Moggie nuts/studs. There is no need for excessive force on these which will damage something. Just a little friendly advice, OK, but I would always check the relevant manual for every individual car you work on....

Post by **MarkyB** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:00 pm

Did you tutor tell you to use the same tyre pressure in all tyres?
That would make as much sense.

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:02 pm

i agree with that
but garages are in that much of a rush these days they just set a standard setting and stick to it.
just what ive been tought by many people to do

Post by **Dean** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:43 pm

I've had wheel studs snap on my Toyota Yaris, I guess this 110n/m eventually weakens them. Scared the life out of me, because it happened with virtually no pressure on the brace! With a BSc + Hons in Engineering I'm with BMC and the like. Someone did tell me as a general rule, the brace you are given with the car, when done up tightly by hand should give enough torque. No need to stand on it and jump or anything!

As a precaution though I agree with the above posters read your manuals and torque accordingly.

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:49 pm

yep and i completely agree with you
most of the cars dont have the manuals with them when they come in its mainly done of auto data
110n/m doesnt seem much when u have a long handle on the torque wrench
and bmc lets not get to hot headed over something as little as this u have ur opions and i have mine

Post by **LouiseM** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:07 pm

lets not get to hot headed over something as little as this

Posting information that may result in injury or death is not something trivial.

BMC is right - we can't allow dangerous advice to be posted here, and thank you to all those who quickly posted a correction. Let's hope that no harm has been done.

Please don't respond to postings in relation to safety critical areas unless you know that the information you are posting is correct. Please, please, think before providing any information that may be dangerous. All cars are not the same. If in doubt, refer to the workshop manual. If someone got hurt as a result of incorrect information being posted on here the site would most likely get closed down and I'm sure no one would want that to happen.

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:18 pm

thanks louise
and ill bear that in mind next time
but u got to admit bmc u could of had a more subtle aprouch to the matter by simpley correcting me rather than offending me strongly and making me look stupid.
even though u dont know the first thing about me or my knowledge so theirs no need to start making accusations!!!!!

Post by **Mogwai** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:56 pm

Had a car in at work this week due to a wheel coming off. luckily it happened at a low speed so no one was hurt but it wrecked the wheel & hub.
Always go by the manufacturers specification as bolt diameters, thread pitch, alloy/steel wheels, type of mounting etc will affect torque settings (for example there are at least 3 different torque settings for the various model ranges on Alfa romeo)