taupe wrote: Removes my rusty paw prints on the bare steel
You have rusty fingers! We had an apprentice with really bad rusty fingers once, the instruments he made go rusty was untrue!Rose Taupe Traveller Restoration
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Hi
Ive done a bit more on the rear end of the traveller today.
I have welded on the rear floor extension and welded in the whole rear floor along a seam by the petrol tank well.
Ive trimmed and formed a flange each side ready for the inner wing repair.
Ive made up repairs for the rear wheelarch and flange and just need to check alignment before welding these in each side. This should stiffen up the whole rear end.
Here are some pics.
Ive done a bit more on the rear end of the traveller today.
I have welded on the rear floor extension and welded in the whole rear floor along a seam by the petrol tank well.
Ive trimmed and formed a flange each side ready for the inner wing repair.
Ive made up repairs for the rear wheelarch and flange and just need to check alignment before welding these in each side. This should stiffen up the whole rear end.
Here are some pics.
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Last edited by taupe on Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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iandromiskin
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 8:51 am
- Location: Dromiskin, Co. Louth, Ireland
- MMOC Member: No
Hi, Great work and an inspiration too. I have had my traveller for some years now and have decided to learn how to weld and try to do her up myself. I'm in no hurry. I was doing some work on her today and noticed that all the usual places are rusty and need replacing. I think I'm looking at having to replace everything underneath. But just when I thought I'd bitten off more that I could chew I came across your thread and if you can restore a car that started off like that then I'm sure that I can do the same to mine (eventually) thats not half that bad. Real inspiration.
One question though - the rear on my car is like your, in that the rear floor and parts of the rear wing are rusted. I take it the only way to restore this area is to remove the wood ?
I plan on posting some pictures of my car tomorrow when I can get on a faster computer to upload pictures.
One question though - the rear on my car is like your, in that the rear floor and parts of the rear wing are rusted. I take it the only way to restore this area is to remove the wood ?
I plan on posting some pictures of my car tomorrow when I can get on a faster computer to upload pictures.
Gertie, 1962 Saloon, Milly, 1969 Traveller (ex APL 971H) and now KAS 1958 4 Door Saloon.
[img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/DSC_0051-1.jpg[/img][img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/Picture112.jpg[/img][img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/Picture366.jpg[/img]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnDuQIOtYcc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuhsoEd1GhQ
[img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/DSC_0051-1.jpg[/img][img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/Picture112.jpg[/img][img]http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t28/iandromiskin/Picture366.jpg[/img]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnDuQIOtYcc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuhsoEd1GhQ
Hi
You can do a lot of welding with the wood in place and if your timbers in good order then I would do as much welding as I could with the timber still on as it keeps everything in alignment. My timber was too rotten for this. Make sure you protect all the glass and trim though when grinding or welding as otherwise you will wreck it. The sparks can burn the glass from 15 foot away!!
When youve done all the main welding you can take the timber off and do the wheelarch repairs unless its just some small patches needed.. I dont see why you couldnt replace the rear floor with the timber in place.
Depending on how bad your car is you can keep it on the road and repair a bit at a time.
I learnt gas welding years ago and then moved on to arc, mig and spotwelding. Its really a case for practise makes perfect. I never really got the hang of arc welding - though some people swear by it.
I used to attend evening classes in vehicle restoration at a local college and learnt so much from the tutors and from the other guys repairing their cars. You can fabricate just about anything once you have learnt the basic techniques and with simple or improvised tools.
I used to drive my car to the evening class, cut out a quarter of the sill, fabricate new and weld it in before driving it home!!:D
Gas welding is great for certain jobs (you can shrink and stretch sheet metal using it) and for freeing up seized stuff but is difficult to weld thin sheet without distortion. Though it is possible with practise - one of the tutors on my evening class could butt weld 22 swg aluminium sheet with a perfect weld!!
You can do nearly all welding on a minor with a mig and you can learn quite quickly with very satisfying results. Get an old car door from the scrappie or some clean sheet steel offcuts from a sheet metal firm and practise cleaning off the paint, cutting out holes and welding a patch over, doing a simple lap joint and then practise a butt weld. Also dont be afraid to cut out big chunks of the car - just think about adequately supporting it or welding in a temporary brace before you start. Remember even very complex shapes can be fabricated if you cut out and replace a strip or patch at a time.
Good luck with your restoration.. and yes lets see some pics.
Taupe
You can do a lot of welding with the wood in place and if your timbers in good order then I would do as much welding as I could with the timber still on as it keeps everything in alignment. My timber was too rotten for this. Make sure you protect all the glass and trim though when grinding or welding as otherwise you will wreck it. The sparks can burn the glass from 15 foot away!!
When youve done all the main welding you can take the timber off and do the wheelarch repairs unless its just some small patches needed.. I dont see why you couldnt replace the rear floor with the timber in place.
Depending on how bad your car is you can keep it on the road and repair a bit at a time.
I learnt gas welding years ago and then moved on to arc, mig and spotwelding. Its really a case for practise makes perfect. I never really got the hang of arc welding - though some people swear by it.
I used to attend evening classes in vehicle restoration at a local college and learnt so much from the tutors and from the other guys repairing their cars. You can fabricate just about anything once you have learnt the basic techniques and with simple or improvised tools.
I used to drive my car to the evening class, cut out a quarter of the sill, fabricate new and weld it in before driving it home!!:D
Gas welding is great for certain jobs (you can shrink and stretch sheet metal using it) and for freeing up seized stuff but is difficult to weld thin sheet without distortion. Though it is possible with practise - one of the tutors on my evening class could butt weld 22 swg aluminium sheet with a perfect weld!!
You can do nearly all welding on a minor with a mig and you can learn quite quickly with very satisfying results. Get an old car door from the scrappie or some clean sheet steel offcuts from a sheet metal firm and practise cleaning off the paint, cutting out holes and welding a patch over, doing a simple lap joint and then practise a butt weld. Also dont be afraid to cut out big chunks of the car - just think about adequately supporting it or welding in a temporary brace before you start. Remember even very complex shapes can be fabricated if you cut out and replace a strip or patch at a time.
Good luck with your restoration.. and yes lets see some pics.
Taupe
Hi
Ive been preparing to mount the body on my rollover frames which bolt on to the bumper mounts front and rear so I can get on with the underside. The front end was giving me a bit of a problem as I need to replace the front chassis legs completely whilst its rolled and I therefore decided that I needed a frame bolted on to the front damper mountings on the engine bulkhead.
Well I got dimensions for the front end alignment jig today and Im planning to make a heavy duty version that I can use for alignment and also hold things in place whilst its rolled.
Here is a picture of the Morris Alignment fixture that Im going to base my frame on.
My rollover frame will bolt on where the front bumper bolts are.
Ive been preparing to mount the body on my rollover frames which bolt on to the bumper mounts front and rear so I can get on with the underside. The front end was giving me a bit of a problem as I need to replace the front chassis legs completely whilst its rolled and I therefore decided that I needed a frame bolted on to the front damper mountings on the engine bulkhead.
Well I got dimensions for the front end alignment jig today and Im planning to make a heavy duty version that I can use for alignment and also hold things in place whilst its rolled.
Here is a picture of the Morris Alignment fixture that Im going to base my frame on.
My rollover frame will bolt on where the front bumper bolts are.
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Last edited by taupe on Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi
An update on progress.
Ive not posted recently as Ive been stripping the traveller down to its shell, engine out etc and have now moved it into the workshop.
Theres so much stuff that comes off Ive spent about 2 weeks cleaning up and bagging bits ready for further restoration or ultimately for refitting.
I had trouble getting the front screen out and ended up cutting off the inner rubber lip. There was some fairly nasty rust in both bottom corners and in the centre at the top. It looked worse than it turned out when cleaned off - some deep pitting but not right through.
The windscreen was covered in algae and when cleaned off the screen was completely covered in angle grinding spatter (not guilty) it must have been there when previous repairs had been done on the car.
I did once get spatter on an MG windscreen and it was stuck so hard to the glass that if left little potholes everywhere when cleaned off - a scrap screen.
Well I wondered if there was some acid that would dissolve the spatter off as otherwise this screen was also going to be scrap. It felt like sandpaper on the inside and outside!!
I tried neat battery acid but it didnt seem to be working after 2 days soaking. I then tried household Grime and Lime remover - squirted it on and left it overnight - What a result !!!!(thanks Barry Scott!) It had dissolved all of the spatter and just left a very tiny mark where the glass was burnt but no pot hole and so slight that I reckon it will easily polish out with a fine windscreen glass polishing kit.
Other progress
Ive got all of the suspension bolts loosened off this was quite a job for some of them, Ive given up on the rear suspension front mounts as there so corroded Ill do more damage trying to get them loose -so its going to be a grinder for those!!
Ive made some progress with the jig for supporting and aligning the front end.
Ive also started fabrication of the replacement front floor panels as I wasnt happy with the thickness of the available replacements.
Ill post some pics soon only its too dark in the workshop to get pics on a mobile phone without a flash!
An update on progress.
Ive not posted recently as Ive been stripping the traveller down to its shell, engine out etc and have now moved it into the workshop.
Theres so much stuff that comes off Ive spent about 2 weeks cleaning up and bagging bits ready for further restoration or ultimately for refitting.
I had trouble getting the front screen out and ended up cutting off the inner rubber lip. There was some fairly nasty rust in both bottom corners and in the centre at the top. It looked worse than it turned out when cleaned off - some deep pitting but not right through.
The windscreen was covered in algae and when cleaned off the screen was completely covered in angle grinding spatter (not guilty) it must have been there when previous repairs had been done on the car.
I did once get spatter on an MG windscreen and it was stuck so hard to the glass that if left little potholes everywhere when cleaned off - a scrap screen.
Well I wondered if there was some acid that would dissolve the spatter off as otherwise this screen was also going to be scrap. It felt like sandpaper on the inside and outside!!
I tried neat battery acid but it didnt seem to be working after 2 days soaking. I then tried household Grime and Lime remover - squirted it on and left it overnight - What a result !!!!(thanks Barry Scott!)
It had dissolved all of the spatter and just left a very tiny mark where the glass was burnt but no pot hole and so slight that I reckon it will easily polish out with a fine windscreen glass polishing kit.Other progress
Ive got all of the suspension bolts loosened off this was quite a job for some of them, Ive given up on the rear suspension front mounts as there so corroded Ill do more damage trying to get them loose -so its going to be a grinder for those!!
Ive made some progress with the jig for supporting and aligning the front end.
Ive also started fabrication of the replacement front floor panels as I wasnt happy with the thickness of the available replacements.
Ill post some pics soon only its too dark in the workshop to get pics on a mobile phone without a flash!
Here are some pics of the new floor section taking shape.
First I cut out the old floor panel... this side was the original - I was lucky that the pressed bits were all still intact and also the carpet stud positions.
Second with dirty fingers place paper over old panel and rub dirt around edges, holes and features to transfer outline on to paper. Use a biro to run around pressed bits, keeping it in the 'groove'
Third tidy up the paper pattern and go over edges and holes with biro
Transfer location of pressings to 1/2" ply and cut out holes with a jigsaw
Place steel sheet on top having marked on the steel where the holes are underneath, clamp in place and hammer the pressing in - not too hard just lots of medium taps around the edges until the metal stretches into shape.
Place paper template on top again, line it up with the pressings and mark the edges and holes.
Cut them out and trial fit.
Turn the ply former upside down and make one for the other side.
Adjust as necessary to fit!!
First I cut out the old floor panel... this side was the original - I was lucky that the pressed bits were all still intact and also the carpet stud positions.
Second with dirty fingers place paper over old panel and rub dirt around edges, holes and features to transfer outline on to paper. Use a biro to run around pressed bits, keeping it in the 'groove'
Third tidy up the paper pattern and go over edges and holes with biro
Transfer location of pressings to 1/2" ply and cut out holes with a jigsaw
Place steel sheet on top having marked on the steel where the holes are underneath, clamp in place and hammer the pressing in - not too hard just lots of medium taps around the edges until the metal stretches into shape.
Place paper template on top again, line it up with the pressings and mark the edges and holes.
Cut them out and trial fit.
Turn the ply former upside down and make one for the other side.
Adjust as necessary to fit!!
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Last edited by taupe on Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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DAVIDMCCULLOUGH
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3010
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:42 pm
- Location: Whiteabbey, Co Antrim
- MMOC Member: Yes
Taupe, you obviously have great skill and lots of patience!! Is making the panel part of the challenge? I wouldnt consider making this as these sections are available fairly cheaply. I have used the full length floor panels on the blue saloon and the traveller Im restoring and found them a reasonably good fit and that they moved the project on nice and quickly.
Too many Minors so little time.....
David
The floor repair panels are well over £200 if you buy two half floors and I already had the rear quarter panels - I would also have to cut off the step sills which I dont want. Id rather keep my money for bits I cant easily make in a few hours, chrome/trim/rubber bits etc.
The problem is that though the rear panels are the correct thickness (as are the full half floors) the front ones obtainable as quarter panels are not and are just too flimsy for me even though there only about £50 for a pair.
Also if youre a stickler for originality the half floors have incorrect pressings for my car as the small front panel pressings are circular!!
The floor repair panels are well over £200 if you buy two half floors and I already had the rear quarter panels - I would also have to cut off the step sills which I dont want. Id rather keep my money for bits I cant easily make in a few hours, chrome/trim/rubber bits etc.
The problem is that though the rear panels are the correct thickness (as are the full half floors) the front ones obtainable as quarter panels are not and are just too flimsy for me even though there only about £50 for a pair.
Also if youre a stickler for originality the half floors have incorrect pressings for my car as the small front panel pressings are circular!!
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billlobban
- Minor Addict
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southerly95
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 376
- Joined: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:52 pm
- Location: North Norfolk
- MMOC Member: No
Hi Southerly
Yes the holes are for PLUG welding, this is where you are trying to replicate the original factory spotwelds. The holes are drilled approx 6-8 mm dia and then filled with new weld usually with a mig welder.
There is some good info on this technique on the MIG welding forum site. Its quite easy to master after a short practise on some scrap steel.
www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm
Yes the holes are for PLUG welding, this is where you are trying to replicate the original factory spotwelds. The holes are drilled approx 6-8 mm dia and then filled with new weld usually with a mig welder.
There is some good info on this technique on the MIG welding forum site. Its quite easy to master after a short practise on some scrap steel.
www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm
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RobThomas
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2647
- Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 10:34 am
- Location: Cardiff
- MMOC Member: Yes
Much more fun to make your own panels rather than spending £15 on repro ones. My neighbour lost his job and didn't have the money to sort out his MOT test and the sills were reeeeeally rotten at the back. This panel took about 2 hours to make (I only have one fully working hand so it takes me a bit longer than usual) The screws hold it all in place whilst it is being seam welded along the joint. The inner sill also was sliced and spliced.
The pics are obviously in the wrong order, but you get the idea. Go on! Have a go!
<br>
<br><br>
<br><br>
<br>
The pics are obviously in the wrong order, but you get the idea. Go on! Have a go!
<br>
Cardiff, UK
Pics from Robs post above...
Hi
An update on progress.
I have finished fabricating the new front floor sections and trial fitted them.
Im starting on the rear floor fitment and have cut out a section of the inner step sill and made up a replacement section.
The next job is to repair the bottom edge of the rear seat support that the back edge of the floor and the front of the rear spring hanger fits to.
Here are some poor quality pics!!
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Hi
An update on progress.
I have finished fabricating the new front floor sections and trial fitted them.
Im starting on the rear floor fitment and have cut out a section of the inner step sill and made up a replacement section.
The next job is to repair the bottom edge of the rear seat support that the back edge of the floor and the front of the rear spring hanger fits to.
Here are some poor quality pics!!
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Last edited by taupe on Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:49 am, edited 2 times in total.