pictures of some welding i have to get done

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borderblue
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pictures of some welding i have to get done

Post by borderblue »

Quite a bit to do,but it will be fun won,t it?<br>Image<br>
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

You need to have a very close check of the crossmember to know what work is really needed.

It could need a crossmember replacement (most likely just a new end piece) so it's best to get that done all in one go rather than repair the floor adjacent to a crusty crossmember.
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Mick_Anik
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Post by Mick_Anik »

Yes, lots of good, wholesome fun :)!

If you take out the whole floor, you can repair the crossmember mostly from above. Then, you can weld the front floor panel to the front edge of the crossmember, and the rear floor panel to the rear edge. That way, you don't get a rust trap between the floor and the crossmember.

I then fill in the top of the crossmember, between the two floor panels, with MIG weld, for added strength.

Later, when you hit the join line with a big hammer, it sounds like you're hitting an anvil!

Like a-ringin' a bell! That's the sound to aim for.
borderblue
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Post by borderblue »

Excellent,I was going to perhaps get a new crossmember going by what i can see, i've got a guy coming on saturday to have a look,at the welding work,as i need to get this baby on the road.
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borderblue
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Post by borderblue »

and there is more<br>Image<br>
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Mick_Anik
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Post by Mick_Anik »

That torsion bar anchorage is looking a little exposed!

I've never replaced a full crossmember, so maybe seek further advice on the correct procedure if you go down that route to make sure the car doesn't bend and things like that.

The central part of the crossmember, where the propshaft goes through, is often okay due to its being splattered with oil over the years.

You can make crossmember ends from steel plate....I think they are originally made from two plates spot welded together. My way is to place washers between the two plates before welding them, which creates enough space so you can fill in between them with Waxoyl. This avoids a further rust trap! Otherwise, you have two pieces of untreated steel sandwiched together. All will look nice from the outside.........

Perhaps it's okay to use a single, extra-thick plate.........await opinions, perhaps.
Last edited by Mick_Anik on Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
borderblue
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Post by borderblue »

I am hoping with help to get cracking on the welding bits,the rest of the work i would like to try and do myself whe the welding is done,so be prepared for more help and advice<br>Image<br>
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alzax3
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Post by alzax3 »

You might want to take the sill cover plates off before your welding friend comes - the sills might be wonderful, or the metal may be very cobweby......
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davidmiles
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Post by davidmiles »

You've got the right idea Borderblue, take on the mundane time consuming work yourself and this will keep the cost down and make your project more cost effective. with advice like you're getting on here you can't go far wrong. keep the pictures coming. Its great to see good quality project images.
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
borderblue
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Post by borderblue »

If you want pictures i have them
cheers<br>Image<br>
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Yes - I'm afraid that crossmember has gone - it's way beyond just new ends. As above - get the sill covers off - and have a good look at the chassis legs and the rear spring mounts - and assess the whole car before starting any work.
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