Engine stands - advice on

Post by **MikeNash** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:22 am

I'm about to assmble a short engine (bought from a "Well-known Scotsman"!) with a head, flywhell, clutch and gearbox, and I see that engine stands like this from Machine Mart

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands

are only about £40. (I'd ask first at our Wanted Section.)

Whats your experience of them? I suppose I'd be holding the engine at the front end and cantilevering the rest outwards; isn't all a bit springy?

Regards, MikeN.

Post by **tortron** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:55 am

fine for small engines.
anything under 1.8L (its the casters that go first)

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:51 am

That is the one I have which I bought 2nd hand. The problem is getting all the arms and fixings in the right place and when you have finished at one end of the engine lifting the engine off with a hoist, turning it around and bolting up the other end. I shall be using mine shortly when I lift the MM engine out. I will then be able to see how easy it is to move the engine from the hoist to the stand.
I had better stock up with some long metric bolts.
I would not use it to bolt the engine and gearbox together.

Post by **MikeNash** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:01 pm

Hmm, OK.
The capacity of the stand above is a nominal 227 Kg i.e. 503lb which compares with the 1098 engine of 252 lb plus the g'box of 44lb, a total of less than 300 lb. Perhaps this (at £58)

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands

which has a nominal 340kg limit i.e. 754lbs would be better esp with its four castors giving extra stability. But I get the impression that you don't recommend these stands for building up an engine to a clutch and g'box, anyway. Personally, I'm finding lifting just the short engine without head, flywheel and clutch too much of a strain, but I'd like to do the work raised up off the floor at a convenient height. And it would be good to move it around after completion. How do YOU do it?
With thanks in advance, MikeN.

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:05 pm

I recon it is easier to bolt the engine and box together on the floor. The box may only weigh 44lbs but you have to consider the leverage on the end of the engine which is held on by a max of 5 bolts and it is therefore putting a fair strain on the threads.
My preference is to put them into the car separately then bolt them together but I know that everyone else will be queueing up to disagree.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:38 am

Best to just work on an old table or desk Mike! I've never been able to see the 'advantage' in these stand things!

Post by **katy** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:27 pm

I agree about the old table bit, we call it a work table.
As a sidenote, we make a bracket to bolt the engine on sideways on those engine stands for the Model T Ford engines.

Post by **mike.perry** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:37 pm

I spent over an hour and a half this afternoon trying to bolt my side valve engine to the engine stand. I even ordered special 2 1/2in long 3/8UNC and 8mm metric fine bolts to secure it. Could I get four arms to line up with four slots? Could I heck. I managed three but the engine was so top heavy it nearly rotated the stand. I eventually gave up and lowered the engine on to scaffold boards.
Part of the problem is that the sump forms the lower half of the bell housing so you cannot remove the sump if it is bolted to the engine stand.
Oh well back to the drawing board!!!!!

Post by **eastona** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:13 pm

I've always used a scabby old Black and Decker workmate and a larger table for keeping/cleaning bits as they are taken off. Painting is easier on the hoist.

Andrew

Post by **MikeNash** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:37 pm

Thanks for all your advice.
From your comments I think I'll be wiser to knock up small stout bench spending money on any wood I need rather than on an engine stand. Fortunately I' ve got a nice fat "Catnic" beam over the garage doorway to attach my hoist to lift the engine/box combination out. And if I put a couple of wheels and arms on the bench I should be able to move it about like a wheelbarrow!
Once again, thanks, MikeN.

Post by **mike.perry** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:42 pm

To present a balance view I have used the engine stand on an A Series engine. The mounting bolt diameter around the flywheel is larger than on the side valve.

Post by **Alec** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:34 pm

Hello all,

personally an engine stand is the way to go. The engine can be spun round and it is very much easier than anything else, particularly as I work on engines a bit bigger and heavier than 'A' series ones. Once you get it bolted on of course

I can't comment on the Machine Mart one as I fabricated my own.

Alec