Aligning front traveller doors

Post by **gppj25** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 10:54 am

I've just removed the front n/s door for repaint etc and can't get the door aligned correctly. Anybody have any useful tips on refitting/realigning the door?
Stupidly, I've overpainted the marks I'd made on the pillar/hinges before removal.

Cheers

Post by **webbnuts** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 2:08 pm

Oh crap, I've just done the same! There's something for me to look forwards to! Lets hope there are lots of useful tips to follow!

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:39 pm

A difficult job as the panels are quite heavy.... I had mine perfectly alligned and the painter took them off when it went for spraying. Its much easier if the door top and glass are removed. Put some low tack masking tape on all the edges to prevent chipping the new paint, including the wings if there fitted and the b post and just take you time- patience is a virtue

Post by **littleblackflash** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:53 pm

I need to do mine because it's dropped so much, the window frame now rubs the b-pillar. How do I adjust that?

Post by **PSL184** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:08 pm

littleblackflash wrote:I need to do mine because it's dropped so much, the window frame now rubs the b-pillar. How do I adjust that?

You can shim the bottom hinge to lift the top of the door but it maybe that the hinge pins are worn and need replacing. On a more serious note, severe rot in the base of the A pillar will give the same condition.....

Post by **gppj25** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:53 pm

You're right DAVIDM - patience is the key. I started from scratch again. Used protective tape where needed. I then finger-tightened just one bolt at top and bottom and closed the door softly pushing the door home. Checked and adjusted the striker plates etc and gently opened the door wide. Tightend other bolts - but not too tight and tried again. As the window frame fouled the pillar I adjusted the bottom hinge accordingly until it lifted the frame clear. I don't know why, but I found that by adjusting the bottom hinge in the opposite direction to what I would have expected, it adjusted the door in the correct manner ...

Also have to remember that the threaded base plate behind the front piller will move not only sideways, but up and down quite a bit. Few squirts of oil/WD40 helps.

Hope this is of some use.

Post by **littleblackflash** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:12 pm

Thanks,
my door has dropped because the upper pin has worn. Are they easy to change and where can I get one from?

Post by **PSL184** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:19 pm

All the online suppliers sell them. You just knock them out with a punch from the bottom upwards then knock new ones in top downwards (support the bottom of the door on a jack or blocks of wood whilst you do this). They say the hinges should be reamed out for the new (oversize) pins but in reality, if they are worn enough for the door to drop then the new pins go in OK without reaming.....

Post by **alanworland** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:08 pm

I supported doors on a trolley jack with a cushion on top to avoid any damage. When I nipped the bolts up I did it with the doors sticking out of its aperture, I was the able to carefully push the door in with the palm of my hand until it was flush with the wing and flush with the B post.
I found if you didn't do the fixings up too tight the doors could be moved about quite well, then opened up and finally nipped up.
Still took a bit of time though.

Post by **ndevans** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:52 pm

PSL184 wrote:All the online suppliers sell them. You just knock them out with a punch from the bottom upwards then knock new ones in top downwards (support the bottom of the door on a jack or blocks of wood whilst you do this). They say the hinges should be reamed out for the new (oversize) pins but in reality, if they are worn enough for the door to drop then the new pins go in OK without reaming.....

Hmmm....This is a job I have to do on my Trav. I've just had a look at the hinges with a view to knocking the pins out without removing the door, and as far as I can see, the lip of the door panel front edge would prevent the top pin from coming out. This is because the door curves inwards just above the hinge. Think I need to get a photo to explain what I mean, but the digital camera batteries are flat at the mo.....

I might start another thread on this topic.

cheers,
N

Post by **alanworland** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:03 pm

My experience of worn hinges is that although the pins wear most, there is still wear in the casting.
I drilled out and reamed the castings (cant remember what size) - go through the complete hinge as an assembly and fit a silver steel pin.
Fits lovely, and kept oiled up will last forever!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:27 pm

Silver steel is quite fragile though!