new owner says hi and has stupid questions

Post by **jimbo1** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:18 pm

Wow! google morris minors, nelson, new zealand and see what you get - its amazing! a morris minor centre for sale for nz$35000

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:10 am

sorry its not a traveller its a 4 door sedan

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:13 am

Good grief. Easy mistake to make

Post by **jimbo1** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:24 pm

I would have thought a traveller would have been called a sedan in other countries - ie. "a two or four door automobile with framing around the windows" in the U.S.
Does it have wood bits?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:26 pm

In the States it would be a Station Wagon - or just a 'Woody'! Sedan = saloon.

Post by **mike.perry** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:37 pm

That's a relief, for a while I thought you were going to customise an early Traveller.

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:44 pm

anyway not so rare so okay to uprate .. i fliped it onits side and removed rolling gear
rust bad but not as bad as a most of the restos undertaken here i have read

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:50 pm

the left frotn rail the worse spots front and rear corners and some floor patching is all
bum is rust free

Post by **Dean** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:52 pm

Great photo... that is what I would call stripped!

Looks like your boxing plate might need welding up... thats the bit with the round and square holes in just above the sills. Put your passenger door on with a couple of bolts and keep checking it fits ok, just in case the car has lost a bit of shape.

Also that hole in the sill at the front end of the rear wheel arch. Check the cavity wing bolt is ok the other side before you patch this. It's an opportunity to fix it if its slipping around or broken out.

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:52 pm

this is nasty

Post by **Dean** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:53 pm

That's the chassis leg, you can buy these new.

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:00 pm

hi Dean .it took 4 days to strip tried to keep up momentum . bit more to go.
i like the angle from above. i see the sill needs a lot of work. its hard to make a call on what to cut and what to leave there is heavy pitting in some of the metal but it seems mostly intact. I have thought about using epoxy as my coating in the floor , underbody, engine bay and in box sections as much as possible.. anyone have any thoughts on this? . i have 10 literes of a high quality high build. epoxy undercoat with with micro fiber will improve its flexiblity and adhesive properties. it will also seal all seams and joins

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:02 pm

yeah i wonder if i can get the rail in new zealand?.
the epoxy with micro fiber will also fill any pitting to a smoth finish and improve its strength

Post by **silly** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:05 pm

hey thanks for the tip on the wing nut btw. they did sheer off in that spot both sides

Post by **silly** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:59 am

more on escort conversion idea. i was scouring the timkin catalouges
escort mk11 uses SET1 and SET4 tapered bearings
moggy uses 30205m and 30303 on the fronts
these are the dimensions
escort INNER
bore 26.987mm OD 50.292mm
cup width 14.72mm cone 10.668mm
OUTER
bore 17.462mm OD 39.878mm

moggy INNER
bore 25mm OD 52mm 15mm wide
OUTER
bore 17mm OD 47mm 12mm wide

im not sure how long the axle stub on the escort is. the moggy has 100mm to the end of the thread. i think the escort is around 20mm longer.
and i havent picked up the ford hubs and discs yet so i dont know dimensions..

Post by **silly** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:05 am

simply bearings do a TRoller bearing that will fit the outer of the ford hub to the minor axle i think
they list it as 30203
17 by 40 by 13.3 this is 1.3 wider then the morris one but looks like i could do the job
there doesnt seem to be a 25 by 50 anywhere. there is a 25 by 52 by 16.25 wide which is a mm or so wider perhaps the escort hub could be turned out to fit this bearing

Post by **silly** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:23 am

i welded in some patches and they look ok. cant seem to source body panels locally tho . replace welded about 1/4 of the rust so far. i have and engineer who offered to do the two new stub axles and press fit them for about 140$NZ . ntb i rekon. i imagine the axel perches wont be too expensive with that deal. i thought a 6 mm plate to mount the calipers, however the plate and longer axle will push the wheel out 11 mm or more unless i shorten the hub or mount the plate behind the face of the upright.. i guess i can compensate with offset..

does anybody know the distance from hub to wheel.. i guestimated about 100mm . i dont know how common this would be and if i could get one in 110 to 120 distance..
anyway making progress might upload some shots of my average welds
. i noticed my torch was leaking gas from the handle and it was affecting the quality of the weld and i was burning the odd whole in areas where the panel had thined in small areas from excess rust.. its a hard call to know what to cut and what to leave. i taped up the handle and it improves thing.s

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:13 pm

6mm is NOT enough for a caliper mount! You need AT LEAST 10mm - and better if 12mm. To be honest - this sounds like an awful amount of work just to fit disc brakes. Far easier to simply overhaul the standard brakes - if in good condition they are perfectly fit for any sane road driving. New stubs will need to be made from correct grade steel - not just any old mild steel ! What does he propose to use ?
Your welding sounds very marginal - there must be no 'wholes (sic) ' - and if the surrounding metal is just going into holes with the torch then it is needing cut back and replaced with new metal!

Post by **MarkyB** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:25 pm

OK BMC, how about a master class about how to make STANDARD Minor brakes work as well as they can? (sticky candidate).
I've driven lots of Minors and the brakes ranged from bearable to really scary

OMG I'm going to die!
I doubt it would cost much and probably isn't rocket science so why not share your recipe with the rest of us rather than maintain how they are "perfectly fit for any sane road driving" when they feel very, very ineffective if you just got out of a modern disc and servo and probably ABS modern car?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:22 pm

Can't say any more than make sure they (and I mean the later 8" front drums!!) are in first class condition. Certainly not rocket science - that's what I did before I retired! They will then lock the wheels with reasonable (but not super-light) pedal pressure. That's all you need ! If you are going to hammer the brakes with constant acceleration and repeated braking - then yes - they may fade away. Either moderate the driving to reduce the need for so much braking - or indeed - invest in expensive disc brake kit - which will need a servo, a major repipe of the hydraulics, a strip-rebuild of the master cylinder and a remote filler/reservoir. There is of course the superior 9" drum braking system from the Wolselely 1500 which is a simple bolt-on modification. However I accept the snag being - hard to find these days. I still say standard 8" drums on front/7" drums on rear in excellent condition will be fine for sane/sensible driving in a standard or slightly modified Minor.