Saloon Chassis Rail

Post by **purplebargeken** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:40 am

Hi. I need to fabricate a repair section for the n/s chassis rail on my saloon. I have access to 1.2mm, 1.5mm and 2.0mm thickness steel. Which is the most suitable for the repair.

I enjoy fabrication, so that is no problem. Just unsure which thickness to use.

Thanks

Ken

Post by **alanworland** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:09 pm

Same as what's there? or thicker

Post by **PSL184** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:42 pm

As thick as you can for the chassis rail. I guess original would have been equivalent to 1.5mm but no harm in any additional thickness as long as you can weld the mismatch OK.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:46 pm

Be aware there should be internal re-inforcment for the tube at the eye bolt mount.

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:30 pm

If repairing the area around the eyebolt then thoroughly check inside the leg at the tube and internal bracing panel. Seldom is it worth rebuilding this whole area ,rather go for a half leg.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:43 pm

Do you mean the front chassis leg or the rear chassis rail extension?

I'd agree with the comment on repairs near the eyebolt. The effort required to repair the internal structure is not really worth it compared to replacing half a leg. It's possible to do a good job, but nearly everyone I've seen has been a quick patch job that added little or no strength. I've seen 2 cars where the eyepbolt pulled out of the leg - both had been patched in this area..

If the rear of the leg also has / needs patches then use a complete leg!

Post by **purplebargeken** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:23 pm

What you say makes sense. Better to do a proper job. I will get the top end finished and then sort out the underneath. The panel isn't that expensive.

Plug weld or continous weld?

Ken

Post by **PSL184** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:45 pm

Should be plug welded for maximun strength - The problem with continuos welding a chassis leg is that you can't get to the inside of the box section unless you slice through the metal above it first.....

Post by **purplebargeken** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:58 pm

Ok, had a big long think about this one. The cunning plan is this:

Cut out the old rusty remnants of the chassis leg. Dress it all up for fitting of the new panel.

However, before I do this, I obviously have to remove the tie rod, and unbolt the suspension bits further back. The thing is what the hell is that big bar thing that goes into it. How do I tackle that? Do I need anything special or is it a case of just unbolt everything in sight.

Ta

Ken

Post by **les** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:25 pm

Not sure what you mean by 'that big bar thing' , but regarding the eyebolt area, I decided to reproduce the original strengthening structure inside as all the repro legs I saw were seriously lacking at that point, sadly in line with most other panels
Unless the saloon legs as opposed to the lcv ones are beautifully engineered!!

Post by **purplebargeken** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:54 pm

Hi Les, big bar thingy relates to: the torsion bar????

Ken

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:57 pm

The 'big bar thing' is the torsion bar - it's the spring that holds the car up! You need to take all the force off it (by dismantling the front suspension) - then remove the torsion bar if you are welding that far back. Do you have a decent workshop manual?

Post by **purplebargeken** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:10 pm

Oh Feck!
Yes, I will be welding that far back.
No

Is there anyone local to Enfield/North London that knows how to do this (the torsion bar bit) without killing themselves, me or the car!!

Petrol and pasties supplied..... HELP!!!! I can't afford 'professional' input on this.

Post by **les** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:52 pm

Sorry Ken, should have got that one!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:59 pm

Sorry - I'm a bit far away - but it really isn't a difficult - or dangerous - job. PM sent!