It just won't start!!

Post by **richie2912** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:12 pm

Hi all,

I am new on here and this is my first post.

I have been rebuilding my 69' morris 1000 for the past 2 years and have just got to the stage where i have put the engine in. Its all connected up and turns over but won't fire.

There is a 1275 A series with twin carbs. (not sure where from but i saved it from a dead minor in a field) The carbs have been used 2 years ago but the engine i have never seen working, but assured it does.

So far i have changed the following:
1.Points
2.Condencer
3.low tension lead and insulator
4.rotor arm
5.dizzy cap
6.wiring loom
7.coil
8.cleaned out the float chambers on the carbs (twin carb)
9.fresh oil in the dash pot
10.cleaned the jets through
11.pistons in carbs are free

Before doing any of this i had no spark and the engine just turned over. But after changing these i have a good spark and the plugs get wet with fuel and it occationally splutters.

I may be wrong but i think it must be timing. so i got piston No.1 to TDC and opened the dizzy cap to see if it was pointing to No.1 HT lead. My question is which part of the rotor arm is suppose to point to the HT lead? Should i follow the centre line of the arm or is the 'hook' suppose to point the way? As if i follow the centre line of the arm it does not point towards No.1 HT lead, it is off by at least 10mm.

Any help or suggestions to the cause of the problem would be much appreciated.

Here are a few pics of the car just befor the new loom was fitted.

Thanks
Richie<br>

<br>

Post by **PSL184** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:25 pm

Set the timing static to about 3 deg BTDC - That should be OK to start the car and you can fine tune it once running. Also try fresh fuel directly into the carb intakes just in case there is any stale fuel that is being pulled through at the moment.... One final "doh" thing - You have pulled the choke out ???

Post by **richie2912** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:34 pm

Ok i will give that a go tonight then. How do i set the static timing?

I dumped all the old fuel and flushed them through with fresh.

Yep i have been using the choke.

Post by **richie2912** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:06 pm

Ok i think i know now, although please correct me if i am wrong.

Static timing 3 BTDC

1. Get No.1 piston to TDC ensuring the valves in No.4 are rocking.
2. Line up the notch on the wheel to 3 BTDC
3. Remove dizzy cap
4. twist the dizzy so that the rotor arm points towards No.1 HT lead

Hopefully fingers crossed it fires then time with a light afterwards.

Thanks for your help!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:40 pm

Just the leading edge of the rotor arm - remember it turns anti-clock. But likely you have flooded it - take plugs out and dry them - and allow the engine to vent for an hour or so. Don't worry too much about timing at '3' degrees - that's only a guesstimate! Once it's running you can set it to give best idle (by twisting the dizzy) - and then road test to be sure there is no pinkiing.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:50 pm

How do i set the static timing?

put a bulb circuit from battery live to the points terminal on the dizzy. When points close bulb will light up.
With engine at about 5° before TDC (pulley timing mark in line with middle pointer on the bottom front of the engine) and rotor arm pointing to #1 lead, rotate the dizzy until the bulb just goes out.
Then clamp the dizzy back up.
Similar for fine tuning but use the adjuster nut on the dizzy.

For a final check, rotate the engine toward TDC and the bulb should go out roughly where you've just set the timing (i.e. fairly near 5 degrees)

Make sure the leads are on in the correct order and the correct rotation round the dizzy cap!
Then re-check you get a spark.

It sounds like you're getting (fresh) petrol so after this static timing I'd expect it to work. Often it fires up when you're still checking for a spark!

Post by **RogerRust** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:30 pm

lovely car by the way

Post by **richie2912** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:22 pm

Thanks for the replies all! They are most useful!

I have just come back from the car and it is now turning over and trying to fire/start but everytime it does the starter motor clicks out and makes a wining sound?? i had a spare starter so i swapped them around and i still have this wine? Any idea what that is?

Post by **mike.perry** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:59 pm

If the starter is throwing out then at least it is trying to fire. What is the condition of the starter ring on the flywheel and the teeth on the starter motor? You could try starting it on the handle. I have done it with a newly fitted engine before. It might be a bit heavy on a 1275 though. Are you sure that you have the HT leads in the correct order and anti clockwise 1-4-3-2?
I have the same twin carb set up on my Traveller. They are probably off a Midget and should be fitted with AN needles

Post by **PSL184** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:01 pm

Actuallu it should be 1, 3, 4, 2 ....

Post by **richie2912** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:09 pm

I tried it with the leads a 180 deg around the other way just incase i set it wrongly and it turned over then there was a loud bang threw the exhaust and it did not try and fire.

i know i have to change the flywheel for a new one as there are 2 maybe 3 teeth missing/badly warn. but i wanted to see if the engine would fire before i spent the money on it, as i have never seen this engine running.

i did try with the handle and it did feel heavier compaired to the 1098cc.

i think i will go back to basics making sure all gaps are correct leads in the correct order etc etc..

I will have to look at what needles are fitted as they may be incorrect.

cheers for the reply!
Rich

Post by **PSL184** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:14 pm

Needles won't make any difference to it starting. Make sure timing is near enough and the leads are correct. 1,3,4,2 anti clockwise around the dizzy and it should start as long as there is fuel and compression....

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:03 pm

Advance the timing until the engine kicks against the starter - then retard it until it starts! the 'whining' is just the starter running on after it has been thrown out of engagement as the engine fires - it sounds like your time is way retarded at the moment.

Post by **mike.perry** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:17 pm

Actuallu it should be 1, 3, 4, 2 ....

Oops must check my typing.

Post by **richie2912** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:26 pm

I DID IT!! IT STARTS!!

i fiddled with the timing a bit more and after that it was edging to fire but wouldn't, so i checked if i was getting fuel and i wasn't! I had a spare single carb and manifold lying around so i plugged that up and it fired straight away!!

Does anyone know of the best place where i can do an exchange with my carbs?

Thanks all for your help!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 9:02 pm

You got one that works - why bother to 'exchange' ?? Twin carbs are not worth having anyway - certainly not worth spending any significant money on them ! A 'big single' is the way to go!

Post by **richie2912** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:03 am

Which big single would you suggest? It will also have to fit around a 3 branch exhaust manifold and therefore require its own inlet manifold. As i have the 1.5inch bore SS exhaust.

Post by **PSL184** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:06 am

Use an HIF 44 on an MG Metro inlet....

Post by **richie2912** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 2:24 pm

I like the look of that carb!!

Is this the correct one?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-on-the- ... 286.c0.m14

Would i need to do any mods to my fuel system etc if this was fitted?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:37 pm

That one was EXTREMELY expensive! But that's the sort of carb you need - often pick them up for £5/10 if patient - and similar cost for the manifold.