Replacement of Torsion Bar Eye Bolt Bushes & Fulcrum Pin

Post by **rsawatson** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:16 am

My nearside front suspension is very squeaky and I've been advised that the above subject is causing the problem. Would anyone here on the forum be able to suggest a procedure for replacing the fulcrum pin and bushes? I've never worked on the suspension before and I do not want to mess up the wheel alignment/leave the car sitting low on one side!

Presumably, I have to remove the front wishbone arm in order to access the front end of the fulcrum pin. (Is this straightforward removing nuts?) For the rear part, I seem to remember being told to almost losen the rear wishbone arm and slightly knock it back along the torsion bar in order to reveal the rear nut for the fulcrum pin eyebolt. (True/False? Easy/difficult to do? Best to employ a mechanic if difficult?)

As for parts - I have here a new fulcrum pin and bushes. Is it likely that the eyebolt itself will need replacing as well?

Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks.

Post by **Mick_Anik** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:54 am

The eyebolt sould be okay, unless the bushes have been so badly worn in the past that the fulcrum pin has come into direct contact with it, and deformed the hole.
I always try to leave the torsion bar and lower arm rear-half nicely locked together if possible. When I have separated them, I have have sometimes noticed a little free play when they are reassembled. So I free the torsion bar at the central crossmember, and remove it that way to get at the nut. If you do separate them, make a mark with white paint so they go back together in the same place. And don't scratch the torsion bar - I've read this advice and assume it may make it prone to snapping!
I think it's nice to dismantle the parts holding the torsion bar to the crossmember, and freshen everything up. With everything off, you can clean the area up and paint it. You might also find rusting taking place. This area is often neglected and possibly covered with grime and old uderseal, hiding a multitude of sins.
Not a difficult job, but entails a bit of crawling around on the floor, so choose a nice, sunny day to do it.

Post by **mike.perry** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:47 pm

Make sure that the car is firmly supported with axle stands under the chassis and remember that the torsion bar is under tension so once the front of the lower arm is removed then the remaining arm needs to be supported with a jack until the tension is released.
There is a thread about using metalastic bushes which you might consider.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:52 pm

should only take about 2 hours
simple job to do really

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:53 pm

loosen the eye bolt nut first

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:10 pm

And NO need to go anywhere near the rear end of the torsion bar - it's all done easily at the front. Are you sure the bushes don't just need a squirt of WD40 - or similar ?

Post by **rsawatson** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:02 pm

Thanks all.

Have squirted with WD40 to alleviate the squeaking; but surely this does not remedy the fact that the bushes are worn? If discovered would these be an MOT failure?

For getting at the rear end of the fulcrum pin - do I literally knock back the rear wishbone along the torsion bar in order to get at the nut on the fulcrum pin? If so, I presume vice versa to replace it to its original position?

Cheers.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:03 pm

Just knock it back as little as possible - NOT off the splines!
Th eyebolt will come away complete with the pin assy.

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:12 pm

^^as BM says no need to remove the torsion bar, simply tap the thick bottom arm back along the torsion bar (having undone all of the relevant nuts/bolts first and loosened off the eyebolt nut) you can just about leave the thick arm on the spline and gain enough access to remove both the eyebolt pin and bushes.
Check the eyebolt and pin for wear and if feeling flush replace the bushes with quality poly bushes.
WD40 is not ideal for bushes as its only a warwer repelant rather than a lubricator, better to use white grease,available in cans or in patse form.

Post by **Mick_Anik** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:05 pm

I suggested removing the torsion bar as it isn't much extra work once the pressure on it has been released.
More than once I've found rust developing behind the height adjuster plate and the central crossmember - this area is constantly bombarded with water and road material thrown at it by the front wheel.
I can't see the harm in undoing a nut and a nut and bolt and having a look.

Post by **jonathon** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:13 pm

Not criticising MA, just suggesting that the job be kept as simple as it needs.

Post by **Mick_Anik** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:22 pm

Not taken as criticism - there is a longstanding tradition here in Poland, amongst the older guys, that jobs only get done when the problem prevents the car from moving. Then, they do the absolute minimum necessary to get the car back on the road.
I found it very odd when I first came - no concept at all of preventive maintenance.
I am a big fan of preventive maintenance, so all of my thinking goes in that direction. I always find time to do the full monty on a job, but I understand that not everyone has.
So, a suggestion is just that - a suggestion. Bettter to have as many in the forum as possible, to give folk a wider view of what's involved.

While the pressure's off the torsion bar, it's not a big deal to strip and clean the kingpin threads and the trunnion innards, and re-grease nicely.

I know....I'm incurable

!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:09 pm

The rear nuts/bolts on the torsion bar may be horribly stuck/rusted - could easily double the time to do the job, for no good reason!

Post by **Mick_Anik** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:03 pm

I was thinking about preservation of the crossmember. If the nuts were horribly stuck and rusted, one might then think twice about attempting to remove them, and maybe make a note to bear it in mind for possible attention later.
The nut on the end of the torsion bar is quite large, so if it didn't move using the large-ish spanner which fits it, it would be best to leave well alone until it perhaps one day became necessary.

Out of interest, has anyone ever had the threaded 'stub' at the rear end of the torsion bar snap off whilst attempting to remove the nut? I've always managed to get the nut off, but a warning here from anyone who has known the stub to snap off could be useful.
Disastrous, is a word which springs to mind.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:00 am

Another v good reason to leave well alone!

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:51 pm

If you are ordering parts I would send for the pin as well, better to have it and not need it than the car to be off the road. This was the bush in my lowlight, probably there from new and was well worn into the eyebolt as well. I used the knock it back on the spline method for the first time on this car and its soooooo much easier than taking out the whole torsion bar. Just remember to mark the torsion bar with tipex before you start to knock it back incase you hit it to hard and then loose the proper height.<br>

<br>

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:32 am

Good picture there!

Post by **rsawatson** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:10 am

Thanks everyone.

People have mentioned marking with tippex etc, sorry but it's not 100% obvious why/where? Is it so that if the wishbone comes off the splines it is replaced in exactly the same position?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:54 pm