Maintaining Maintenance free batteries!
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Maintaining Maintenance free batteries!
Just had a flat battery!!
The battery (Lucas) says maintenance free on the side, but it has the usual top-up covers on. I have not been checking the electrolyte level, because it says maintenance free.
It turns out that the electrolyte level was almost half way down the battery!! It was fine when warm, but struggled to start from cold.
I have now topped it up with de-ionised water and put it on charge overnight, but what's puzzling me is:
What does maintenance free actually mean if you have to keep topping the battery up?
The battery (Lucas) says maintenance free on the side, but it has the usual top-up covers on. I have not been checking the electrolyte level, because it says maintenance free.
It turns out that the electrolyte level was almost half way down the battery!! It was fine when warm, but struggled to start from cold.
I have now topped it up with de-ionised water and put it on charge overnight, but what's puzzling me is:
What does maintenance free actually mean if you have to keep topping the battery up?
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- Minor Legend
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battery
It should mean that you never have to top it up over its
working life!! It shouldbe designed to allow the escape
of gas pressure without losing any of the electrolyte.
( must say I've always been a bit dubious). If you are
still on dynamo/regulator it is possible that you are
overcharging? My maintenance free battery is three
and a half years old......I will check it AM and see whats
what.( I have never touched it since new)
Willie
working life!! It shouldbe designed to allow the escape
of gas pressure without losing any of the electrolyte.
( must say I've always been a bit dubious). If you are
still on dynamo/regulator it is possible that you are
overcharging? My maintenance free battery is three
and a half years old......I will check it AM and see whats
what.( I have never touched it since new)
Willie
Maintenance free
Should mean exactly what it says surely. I've never experienced any need to top up one of these batteries.
How old is it Cam? Take it back to where it came from anyway. Failing that get on to Lucas themselves.
How old is it Cam? Take it back to where it came from anyway. Failing that get on to Lucas themselves.
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Weird eh?
I am running an alternator and have been for a long time.
The battery to my knowledge is over 4 years old, and taking it back is not an option (I did not buy it - it came with a car). This particular battery has been in three different cars (all alternator) and prior to this incident has given good service over the last 4 years.
It started perfectly this morning after topping up and charging overnight, so I'll have to see how it goes.
It puzzled me because (like olonas) I have never had to top one of these batteries up before either!!
I am running an alternator and have been for a long time.
The battery to my knowledge is over 4 years old, and taking it back is not an option (I did not buy it - it came with a car). This particular battery has been in three different cars (all alternator) and prior to this incident has given good service over the last 4 years.
It started perfectly this morning after topping up and charging overnight, so I'll have to see how it goes.
It puzzled me because (like olonas) I have never had to top one of these batteries up before either!!
Maintenance free batteries
Cam - When I state I've never had to top up one of this type battery I must be honest and say that I've never checked the electrolyte level either. When one has packed up I've obviously thought "ah well that's the end of it's life." Possibly if the level had been checked there could have been a drop which was the reason for the battery failure anyway. If the battery is "maintenance free, never needs topping up" it shouldn't be necessary to check the electrolyte level for it's life.
But, on another tack, those so called "sealed for life" bearings may last "x" amount of time, that is their life, so the statement is true. Is it the same with a battery and a loss of electrolyte is normal over it's life? Your battery is 4 years old, is that it's expected life?
But, on another tack, those so called "sealed for life" bearings may last "x" amount of time, that is their life, so the statement is true. Is it the same with a battery and a loss of electrolyte is normal over it's life? Your battery is 4 years old, is that it's expected life?
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- Minor Legend
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batteries
CAM.. have just checked my "maintenance free" Halfords
battery and,after over three years use, it took 1/3rd of a
litre to fill to the correct levels!!! My other car has a "sealed
for life" battery which does not have access to the cells.
The moral seems to be:if you can gain access to the cells
it is advisable to check them periodically despite the
maintenance free description.
Willie
battery and,after over three years use, it took 1/3rd of a
litre to fill to the correct levels!!! My other car has a "sealed
for life" battery which does not have access to the cells.
The moral seems to be:if you can gain access to the cells
it is advisable to check them periodically despite the
maintenance free description.
Willie
Maintenance free batteries
Willie - thanks for checking your Halfords "maintenance free" battery
My Traveller has similar alternator charged battery fitted - I'll check right away. It's my everday vehicle.
My saloon has an old style, check level and top up as necessary, "rubber" dynamo charged battery (Shepherd Batteries, Manchester) which strangely enough has never needed topping up in it's up to now two year life. BUT the car does less than 2000 miles per annum.

My Traveller has similar alternator charged battery fitted - I'll check right away. It's my everday vehicle.
My saloon has an old style, check level and top up as necessary, "rubber" dynamo charged battery (Shepherd Batteries, Manchester) which strangely enough has never needed topping up in it's up to now two year life. BUT the car does less than 2000 miles per annum.
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- Minor Legend
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battery
Olonas... let us know if it needed topping up.
Your low mileage one probably never gets enough
continuous charge to make it 'bubble' vigorously.
My previous battery lasted six years in this car.
Willie
Your low mileage one probably never gets enough
continuous charge to make it 'bubble' vigorously.
My previous battery lasted six years in this car.
Willie
Maintenance free batteries?
Willie - yes, top up required, about 1/4 pint (that's showing my age
). I think we need to thank Cam for having a knackered battery
, it's maybe given ours a bit longer.
Not much consolation but, thanks Cam.
I think most batteries now come with a two year guarantee. So I suppose four to five years is a reasonable life expectancy. I suppose anything over the two years must be considered a bonus.



I think most batteries now come with a two year guarantee. So I suppose four to five years is a reasonable life expectancy. I suppose anything over the two years must be considered a bonus.
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I too had a knackered battery (same time as my constant stalling due to petrol pump points - bad combination
), so I opted for the Halfords black battery - especially as the big Halfords sticker comes straight off.
Their regular batteries have a 3 year guarantee, but are not much different from everyone else's (2 year guarantee). I've kept my receipt and the sticker as it'll probably come in handy in 2 years 11 months time......
I expect most Halfords customers would have lost the receipt, sold the car, or could not prove the battery failure was due to the battery rather than a faulty alternator - It would be nice to think the 3 year guarantee meant a good battery?
(They can also offer a 4 year guarantee on the more expensive batteries, which strongly tempted me)
I checked my battery electrolite level every 3 months, so the old battery had lost a lot of water (2 pints!) in a short space of time.
The most important thing to check is the charging voltage, because if it is too high the battery won't last long.
For that reason I just bought a digital meter, but I've not checked the Minor yet as I checked the Porsche and it was charging at 15 to 16 volts!!!!!!!!!
(13 month old alternator
out of standard warranty
). Gosh I really love replacement parts.
Anyway I'll be adding the volt meter test to the 3 monthly mental check list.
For you alternator boys, the voltage the voltage at the battery after start up can vary but if you rev the engine, should immediately stabilise at 14 volts (+/- a bit) and stay very constant. If it wanders around then the regulator is faulty and is likely to overcharge the battery (ruining it) an also increases risks of blown bulbs and faulty electrics.
If the charging voltage is fine, and the battery still looses water - it'll soon be time for a new battery as topping it up may only be a temporary fix.

Their regular batteries have a 3 year guarantee, but are not much different from everyone else's (2 year guarantee). I've kept my receipt and the sticker as it'll probably come in handy in 2 years 11 months time......
I expect most Halfords customers would have lost the receipt, sold the car, or could not prove the battery failure was due to the battery rather than a faulty alternator - It would be nice to think the 3 year guarantee meant a good battery?
(They can also offer a 4 year guarantee on the more expensive batteries, which strongly tempted me)
I checked my battery electrolite level every 3 months, so the old battery had lost a lot of water (2 pints!) in a short space of time.
The most important thing to check is the charging voltage, because if it is too high the battery won't last long.
For that reason I just bought a digital meter, but I've not checked the Minor yet as I checked the Porsche and it was charging at 15 to 16 volts!!!!!!!!!




Anyway I'll be adding the volt meter test to the 3 monthly mental check list.
For you alternator boys, the voltage the voltage at the battery after start up can vary but if you rev the engine, should immediately stabilise at 14 volts (+/- a bit) and stay very constant. If it wanders around then the regulator is faulty and is likely to overcharge the battery (ruining it) an also increases risks of blown bulbs and faulty electrics.
If the charging voltage is fine, and the battery still looses water - it'll soon be time for a new battery as topping it up may only be a temporary fix.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

Batteries
Willie/Ray - yes you're right, it's 3 yrs on their standard batteries and 4 on the "calcium"??
My daughter's just had to buy one for her car. The last Halfords battery she had in a Renault 19 Diesel lasted just over three years and when it failed there was no real prior warning signs. One morning the engine would hardly turn over (after preheat) and that was it. RAC person said it's knackered, you need a new one.
My daughter's just had to buy one for her car. The last Halfords battery she had in a Renault 19 Diesel lasted just over three years and when it failed there was no real prior warning signs. One morning the engine would hardly turn over (after preheat) and that was it. RAC person said it's knackered, you need a new one.
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- Minor Legend
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batteries
I have just checked my receipt for the Halfords battery
and it is 3years and nine months old and cost £21-99
which I think is a real bargain....especially as it is in period
black!
Willie
and it is 3years and nine months old and cost £21-99
which I think is a real bargain....especially as it is in period
black!
Willie
Battery
Yes, I think Halfords batteries, for the MInor anyway, are very good value for money. They've increased in price because the battery in my Traveller, from them, was around £26 a year ago. It's amazing that a similar spec/capacity battery for say a Ford Fiesta is around £39. I wonder why, other than different, Ford type, terminals?
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- Minor Fan
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I agree about the reciepts.... when I sold off 'Maggie' my old 1961 4dr I gave them the 3 yr reciept/warranty and when I bought 'Pidge' the seller game me her's!!!! I'm always wary of a failing battery (since it is an intergral part of the mechanics - no battery : no going anywhere!) So During summer I installed a voltage and ammetre gauge just to keep a check on things. I know the battery is new but it's probably the least componant of the car which is regually checked, esp. if it says 'maintenance free'. I can immediatly see if the battery is not charging, charging properly (which then leads me to the dynamo) etc...
When I bought a battery at Halfords I never considered to ask what was 'maintenance free' anyway? But at least I know now from reading the forum - jugs of de-ionised water at the ready........
Take care guys

When I bought a battery at Halfords I never considered to ask what was 'maintenance free' anyway? But at least I know now from reading the forum - jugs of de-ionised water at the ready........

Take care guys
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Mine was 24.99 a few weeks ago, which seemed to have beaten inflation, as I paid 19.99 for one 11 years ago.
And as the Halfords ones are black I agree it is well worth it.
I've only ever looked at alternators before (quite unreliable on older cars).Where should I check the voltage on the Minor?
I'd guess the sensible place would be at the battery, but as it has the standard dynamo/voltage regulator, should it give a constant level or will it wander a bit?
And as the Halfords ones are black I agree it is well worth it.
I've only ever looked at alternators before (quite unreliable on older cars).Where should I check the voltage on the Minor?
I'd guess the sensible place would be at the battery, but as it has the standard dynamo/voltage regulator, should it give a constant level or will it wander a bit?
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: S E London
- MMOC Member: No
battery
The trouble with the dynamo/regulator set up is that any
adjustments are temperature dependent,i.e. a bit specialised.
I have only attempted to adjust this system once(on an MGB)
and never got satisfactory working again until I bought a new
control box!!! You may be luckier than i was.
The contacts on the regulator should close at a reading between
12.7 to 13.3volts.(measured between terminals D and E on the
control box). To check the Dynamo itself remove the cables
from the D and F terminals and connect these terminals together
with a short wire. Run the engine at tickover speed. With the
voltmeter connected between the dynamo terminals and earth
you should see the output rise steadily as you increase the
revs,DO NOT LET THE READING REACH 20 volts. about !000
revs should be enough. If you do not get a high enough
reading then there are several possible faults which will be pin
pointed by the level of voltage but that's another chapter.
Willie
adjustments are temperature dependent,i.e. a bit specialised.
I have only attempted to adjust this system once(on an MGB)
and never got satisfactory working again until I bought a new
control box!!! You may be luckier than i was.
The contacts on the regulator should close at a reading between
12.7 to 13.3volts.(measured between terminals D and E on the
control box). To check the Dynamo itself remove the cables
from the D and F terminals and connect these terminals together
with a short wire. Run the engine at tickover speed. With the
voltmeter connected between the dynamo terminals and earth
you should see the output rise steadily as you increase the
revs,DO NOT LET THE READING REACH 20 volts. about !000
revs should be enough. If you do not get a high enough
reading then there are several possible faults which will be pin
pointed by the level of voltage but that's another chapter.
Willie
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- Minor Fan
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I use Lucas 4 year guarantee batteries in all mine (3 moggies). All alternator systems. Also use the higher output type for better cold starting, as fitted to the 12v MGB's, so they are more square but looking original dosen't bother me, who looks under the bonnet anyway. They are £29-50 inc VAT. And with a 4 year garantee that works out at £7-37 per year, so when you consider the amount you spend on petrol per year a new battery every 4 years looks cheap in comapison. But thats just my thoughts on the matter. Think I will check the levels anyway.