How do I get the engine out of my car ?

Post by **iandromiskin** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 12:47 pm

Very soon I am going to have to remove the engine from my Traveller but how do I go about it ?

I think I know how to take off the hockey sticks and front grill etc and should be able to figure out how to get the radiator out by following the Hayes manual, but how do I get the remainder of the engine out in terms of disconnecting it from the engine mounts and gearbox mount ?????????

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 12:57 pm

If you don't have the Workshop Manual (deleted as copyright issues with link)
You simply undo everything - and lift it out. the rad needs to come out (4 bolts + hoses) - but no need to take the front panel off - although it can make it much easier - especially if you don't have a swing handy!<br>

<br>

Post by **MarkyB** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:55 pm

Locate the hockey stick nuts, the bumper nuts and all the bolts along the bottom of the front panel and give them all a dose of penetrating oil Plusgas or similar. Not WD40.
If you can't see the hockey stick nuts a bit of wire brush action may be needed before the oil.
Have a look at the bolts on the engine mounting towers too. Similar treatment won't hurt.
You can remove the rad along with the front panel if you like.
If you are going to use the manifold that is on the car now and it doesn't leak where it joins the exhaust pipe then disconnect it from the engine and tie it to the inner wing out of the way.

If you are leaving the gearbox in the car put something under the gearbox to stop it hanging down too far (I used a plastic toolbox)

There aren't any gotchas or special tools needed.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:44 pm

Plastic bucket works too - or just tie it up with rope around, and around the front damper arms. That way the car can be rolled away from the hoist if need be. This shows the manifold left attached to the exhaust- no need to take the carb off either! However the pink marigolds are de-rigueur!
<br>

<br>

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:08 pm

I found it easy enough to get out with the gearbox attached, however watch out for the bodged gearbox cross member, there are four bolts and as I found one had been replaced by welding the darn thing in-place. also the clutch linkage has to come out, the Haynes manual does describe how to do this, but its a bit wordy there is an engine steady bar a few cables and an earthing strap, apart from that the engine mounts at the front, and it should slide out.

I used masking tape and wrote on all the cables where they went, also I lifted the gearbox floor to give me easy access to the mounting bolts for the gearbox cross member its much easier than crawling underneath. as you can see here there are two mounts for gearbox in this cross member loosen them off the unbolt the cross member drop the cross member away.

Don't forget to drain the oil out of the gearbox first, and there is a spline on the back of the gearbox so the prop shaft just slides out. Just get stuck in. just don't rush it.

Post by **flowersGTR** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 4:01 am

hi guys sorry but im going to try and hi-jack this thread slightly,
ive got the hayes manual to work with
what would be the difference if i put a 1275 mk3 MG midget engine and gearbox in instead of the original 1970 1098cc engine?
for example - clutch the morris is a cable/linkage clutch whilst the midget it hydraulic how do i get this to work in the morris???
i noticed the morris prop is alot thicker, will this be an issue, is the splined end that goes into the gearbox the same?
anything else i need to look our for??
the fans are different i know, will the standard morris radiator be ok?
how much power can the standard morris diff and half shafts take before they fail? i was told about 70hp for the diff
would an LCB be a good idea as well?

sorry to dump all these questions on you, any help at all will be greatly appreciated
cheers guys

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 3:21 pm

I would check with your insurance company first as you may need to upgrade the brakes to retain your insurance policy as the 1275cc fits in relatively easy but does have quite a bit more power, no problems with the prop as the standard one is retained, and you can use the minor clutch linkage with no problems just that its better to use a converted to fit Moggie flywheel as it takes the larger clutch and gives a lighter action.
If you want an outline guide get a copy of Owen Burtons book Morris Minor Modification Manual (from the specialists) its not perfect but explains in detail what is needed when fitting either a Midget or Marina engine.

Post by **StaffsMoggie** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 5:27 pm

Have a read of this thread....

http://www.morrisminoroc.co.uk/index.ph ... ic&t=19101

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 6:49 pm

Simplest thing is to retain the Minor gearbox - complete with clutch linkage. Yes an LCB manifold and a larger bore exhaust is good!

Post by **dunketh** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:24 am

Dive in!
Its all obvious when you're sat looking at it.
The more you think about it, the more complex it'll seem.

As for removing the radiator. Dont. It makes work.
Leave it attached to the front panel and lift the whole panel out with it attached.
Sounds obvious I know - but I didnt think of it til my 2nd lump change. Also, undo all the bolts underneath before undoing the water hoses. Again, a rookie mistake but you dont want to be lying in a puddle!