Low power, gutless engine
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Low power, gutless engine
Hi,
JUst got the engine running after it had sat for a few years. It goes fine through 1st and 2nd but is fairly gutless in 3rd and I can't get it past 40 mph in 4th. Just trying to work out possible causes? It idles well enough and revs well at idle.
These are the things tried so far:
New distributor cap, plugs, rotor arm, points, coil.
Cleaned carb and adjusted the mixture.
Compression test- 123, 120, 113, 120.
Cleaned out fuel pump filter
Ran without air filter to rule this out.
Vacuum advance not working currently but I don't think this would cause it?
Any ideas? Obviously compression is low but I would still think it could go above 40 on a flat road. Just trying to decide whether to continue with this engine or pull it out and buy another?
JUst got the engine running after it had sat for a few years. It goes fine through 1st and 2nd but is fairly gutless in 3rd and I can't get it past 40 mph in 4th. Just trying to work out possible causes? It idles well enough and revs well at idle.
These are the things tried so far:
New distributor cap, plugs, rotor arm, points, coil.
Cleaned carb and adjusted the mixture.
Compression test- 123, 120, 113, 120.
Cleaned out fuel pump filter
Ran without air filter to rule this out.
Vacuum advance not working currently but I don't think this would cause it?
Any ideas? Obviously compression is low but I would still think it could go above 40 on a flat road. Just trying to decide whether to continue with this engine or pull it out and buy another?
The compressions are horribly low - the piston rings will be 'stuck' after lying so long. You could try pouring a little diesel fuel into each cylinder and leaving it to soak down into the rings for a few days. Turn it over by hand - and add a litle more fuel each day. To do the job properly of course - remove head and sump and push the pistons out. May also be worth lifting the head and grinding in the valves - the 3rd reading is particularly low! Simple thing to check - if the carb piston free to ris and does it fall back with a clunk? Vacuum advance will make a slight difference. What engine size is it ??



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Well - as above really, try the diesel or pop the pistons out. I would do the head/valves anyway. You seem to have covered most of the other possibilities. A 948 is not going to be the fastest anyway - but should top 40 mph!
Last edited by bmcecosse on Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:23 am, edited 1 time in total.



You could try a half gallon of diesel in a full tank of petrol to give the whole system a clean out. This process is not agreed by all but I have been doing it for years without any detrimental effects - you do get a bit of smoke though !!!
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Give the engine a good service.
Clean out the float chamber in the carb.
Static time the distributor with a bulb.
Clean the plugs and gap .16 i think.
Set the tappets to .12 cold
Also set the points to .16
Do as suggested above from bmc and psl
James
Clean out the float chamber in the carb.
Static time the distributor with a bulb.
Clean the plugs and gap .16 i think.
Set the tappets to .12 cold
Also set the points to .16
Do as suggested above from bmc and psl
James
I own a 1974 MG Midget 1275 in Teal Blue "Midget" is what we call him and he is in very good to excellant condition "midget" is a Chrome bumper/Round Wheel arch model.
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My guess would be timing.
120psi is not far from normal for your engine. It may improve after a few hundred miles but it's not far from average already.
Minor dizzy has advance weights and at idle the vac advance will also change the timing - therefore I've found it quicker easier and more reliable to do static timing.
Also check the dizzy shaft will advance and spring back (turn the rotor arm by hand).
Vac advance is only for fuel economy so unless you're getting a serious air leak, it won't affect accelleration.
120psi is not far from normal for your engine. It may improve after a few hundred miles but it's not far from average already.
try doing the timing again, but static (use a bulb tester and check the points open at about 6 or 7 degrees BTDC) by rotating engine slowly with starting handle.Points and plugs are new and set correct. Timing was done with strobe.
Minor dizzy has advance weights and at idle the vac advance will also change the timing - therefore I've found it quicker easier and more reliable to do static timing.
Also check the dizzy shaft will advance and spring back (turn the rotor arm by hand).
Vac advance is only for fuel economy so unless you're getting a serious air leak, it won't affect accelleration.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

Lack of vacuum advance will unfortunately affect all the performance - the idling timing would normally be optimised with the vacuum connected - by twisting the dizzy back and forth to get best idling. Setting static timing is just pure guesswork otherwise! With no vacuum unit - very high basic advance will be applied to get good idling - and this will cause pinking/poor running all through the range. If that advance is not applied then poor idling/poor 'pick-up' and mediocre running will be the result - the mechanaical advance curve built into the dizzy is designed to be used WITH vacuum advance - an engine with no vac is very 'lifeless' - been there/done that! But - it should still beat 40 mph if in otherwise decent condition! As Ray suggsts though it definitely is worth checking the mechanical advance is operational.
The ~ 120 psi compression is desperately low for a 948 - it should be 150/160 psi for good running - even on that engine.
The ~ 120 psi compression is desperately low for a 948 - it should be 150/160 psi for good running - even on that engine.


