Replacing NS Rear Wheel Cylinder

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xpress
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Post by xpress »

Re, the ambient music, I was only saying today how I would like a portable radio for outside, to listen to some music while working!

Ps I might pick up one of these one man brake bleeding kits ..

Mick_Anik
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Post by Mick_Anik »

I can't work on a car without music - "curse to the rhythm"!

bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Whistle while you work!
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Mick_Anik
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Post by Mick_Anik »

For xpress at the moment:

Come cry with me

Every little thing I do is difficult

Somethin' stupid

Don't brake my heart

Stranger on the chore

Moggie B. Goode

xpress
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Post by xpress »

I have been working on Doris as we speak, here's some pictures to make you laugh!

<br>Image<br>

xpress
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Post by xpress »

.. and another.<br>Image<br>

xpress
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Post by xpress »

There's a red gasket between this filler cap and the master cylinder face but still it won't turn! Previously, I tried a strong pair of adjustable pliers and nearly shook the car trying to turn it out but to no effect, I tried some releasing fluid and still won't turn!

xpress
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Post by xpress »

Tried to chisel into it and turn it out with a wooden mallet and a screwdriver hitting it here ..

I can't use a blow torch or heat because it's brake fluid!

:(

<br>Image<br>

xpress
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Post by xpress »

I might try a power drill like a cordless dewalt in that flathead that I made and try to get some torque on it!

xpress
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Post by xpress »

I tried again to pull the filler nut around a bit first starting with a chisel, then a blunt old flathead screwdriver, the metal is just too soft.

Considering the dewalt flathead spin out filler nut approach again.

Is there a socket attachment that you can buy with a flathead attachment on the other end?

Looks like it might be new master cylinder time. :S

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Post by MarkyB »

Take the plate that surrounds the top off first then you can get some purchase on it.
It should be threaded so you need to put some oomph into turning it.
Popeye + spinach would have trouble undoing it with a screwdriver in the position you had it.
It could do with some flats filed in the edges so you can get a grip with spanner or pliers (if you must).
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Post by eastona »

If that's what the outside's like, what's the inside going to look like?

I'd hazard a guess the master cylinder'll be a bit corroded.

Even though it's brake fluid, wouldn't a blowtorch on the outside be OK?

Andrew
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And Project "Traveller"...
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Post by Mick_Anik »

Using a screwdriver as a chisel is just not the same thing - you lose power through the plastic handle. A chisel transfers all of the power from the hammer blow to the target. Also with a screwdriver, you tend to think about not damaging it, even if you're not too bothered, and thus don't give it the full whack! Also, can be dangerous when the plastic finally shatters.....been there, done that :D .

You need to get a purchase with a chisel on the outer edge of the filler cap - more turning force. Imagine chiselling 1/8 inch from the centre - no chance. The further out the better.

If it doesn't budge, just go in for the kill! You'll get it off......in how many pieces.......?????????

Rock on!

xpress
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Post by xpress »

Ah ok Mick yes I see what you're saying about the edge, I am going to try and get a turn on it with a small chisel and wooden mallet again!

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Post by xpress »

Just came back, you're right mick, have a gold star! I got a 1/4 inch chisel and got into the edge, the metal was so soft, it went right through, started on some metal inside of this and got a turn instantly! It was like magic!

I tapped a few more times and backed it off, unscrewed it! Only problem now is this flathead hole at the top of the master cylinder, a little bit more excessive than a bleed hole! Would the braking system still pressurise with this amount of hole in the top? it just about seals with an average sized flathead pushed into it! I could always seal it up with something, any ideas or opinions?

I hear that the newer filler caps have some kind of hole in to let enough air to bleed out but still for system to be pressurised? Shall I stick a plastic bag under this cap to keep as much air out of the system as possible?

I might as well replace both rear cylinders now. The brake fluid didn't look too bad at all and was a quarter of an inch from the top!

Looks like I will be looking around for a new filler cap! The new one will be getting a little smear of copper grease before tightening it up! Does anyone have a filler cap knocking around? lol!

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Post by MarkyB »

The only worry would be "stuff" finding its way in.
The cap has a hole in by design, it's not pressurised above the fluid.
xpress
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Post by xpress »

I don't think this cap had a hole in, I couldn't see one anywhere before I started attacking it! Ah, not pressurised above the fluid! Would a smear of hammerite in there seal it up enough for me to order/find a new cap? Should I have a hole on that cap and how big should the hole be? I don't think my cap had a hole in it of any description. Maybe this cap was/is very very old. BTW thanks for setting me right there markyB. The new flathead hole was unintentional, it was my last ditch attempt to fashion a face for me to unscrew the cap with a flathead or a chisel but it was on very tight!

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Post by bmcecosse »

Just use it - lay a rubber mat over the top - until you get a new cap. Don't try to seal it with anything!
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xpress
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Post by xpress »

hiya bmcecosse! ok, i might just put some silver foil above the cap and then put the carpet back down and then a rubber mat on top! should my cap have had a hole in, was it later caps that had this implemented? what does the hole in everyone's filler cap serve if the system isn't pressurised above the fluid? should my cap have had a hole in it? will my "custom flatbed hole" not affect bleeding and pressurising of my brake system?

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Post by bmcecosse »

Yes - there must be a breather passage to let air in/out as the fluid level rises and falls. It is NOT pressurised!
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