Which Engine Oil?

[DuncanBeaumont]

As a new(ish) owner of a 1960 1098 cc Minor engine no. 10MA-U-H 133***, which engine oil should I use, where can I buy it and how often should I change it - and the filter?

Thanks in advance

[LouiseM]

Use 20/50 oil in the engine. You can buy this from Morrisons, Asda, Tesco, Halfords, motor factors etc. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.

[DuncanBeaumont]

Thank you Louise for the prompt reply.

So, is that bog standard cheapo oil? Or is it worth paying the extra for Castrol etc?

[LouiseM]

Well there's been lots of posts on this subject and opinions are divided. Some prefer the expensive stuff whilst others prefer the cheapest. Some advise buying an oil with an API rating, others don't. Some say that they have noticed no difference in the running of their car with expensive oil, others say that they have. I've used cheap and expensive at various times depending on where I was when I needed to buy it. My old engine was very worn and burning lots of oil though so I tended to stick with the cheaper stuff. I've recently had a recon engine fitted so will use the better quality oil in future. Take a look at this thread here:

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... t=oil+asda

[autolycus]

I don't think there's a single right answer to the question of oil quality for these cars. You'll see a whole range of (largely uninformed and incomprehending) views, ranging from "I always use Boggo brand from the pound shop, and it's never done my engine any harm" (yet, and how do you know?), to "only the finest premium synthetic hand-filtered through the shorn tresses of Peruvian mermaids" (which they'll then need to invent benefits for to justify paying a tenner a litre).

My view, fwiw, is that if it's an elderly engine, with a sump full of gunge from years of neglect, that you're using for occasional gentle runs, then use a supermarket 20W/50, changed regularly. If it's just been rebuilt, and if you want it to last forever with enthusiastic or heavy use, particularly under arduous conditions such as long high-speed work (!), or short journeys in winter, then it might be worth splashing out on a more expensive semi- or fully-synthetic oil, perhaps 15W/40 grade, or even 10W/40. Even with a modern "extended service" oil, I'd still change it frequently - old designs of engine are always going to give more problems with water in the oil, sludge from piston blow-by, and dilution with unburned fuel arising from use of the choke.

Kevin

[dalebrignall]

use 20/50,dont go any thinner,the engines prefere the thicker oil as to price thats up to you,if your leaking or using lots then id go for the cheaper if not then go branded.

[aupickup]

i use branded oils and find them better, thats my veiw anyway

[pfgiz]

I've tried many oils over the years and found that they do the same job. Always 20/50 for the A series though, as that's what my Dad told me and for no better reason than that. I have taken to using an engine flush at renewal, to clear the oil ways, and an additive post renewal, as I find this reduces the noise of the engine when initially turned over, especially in the cold.

It’s your choice, these engines are very resilient and the only problems I’ve had have been post head gasket or cooling issues.

[rayofleamington]

From a technical point of view, brands mean little and ratings (API and ACEA) tell the story.
However it does go that decent brands of oil produce good oil that will therefore have good ratings. For those who'd rather pay for performance than a logo, there are non-name brand oils with the same ratings for a better price.

The ratings are based on 2 main criteria
1) how much lifetime an oil can take in your big ends and bores etc before the molecular chains get broken and the oil looses it's lubrication properties.
2) how tolerant the oil can be of particle and acid imputirites. Regarding particles it needs to keep them in suspension (avoiding deposits which can block oilways etc..)

If the oil is changed much more frequently then improvements in #1 and/or #2 don't make any difference. Therefore if the car is used occasionally and oil is changed every 3000 miles, then the advantage of good ratings will be lost!

[MarkyB]

I agree with autolycus although I think that the oil plays a larger part in the build up of sludge than he give it credit for.
Oil has come a long way since the 50s or we would still be using single grade non-detergent oil.

[DuncanBeaumont]

So - I/We should be looking for certain spec numbers?

Er, Which spec numbers?

[bmcecosse]

I use ASDA 20W50 - have done for years - in various different A series engines. None have suffered any problems or excessive consumption - all had good oil pressure.
However -I don't use that oil in my 'modern' Vauxhall engine which specifies Fully Synthetic 5W30 to 'A3' grade - and that's what it gets ! But that oil would be completely useless in an A series.

Interestingly - I recently obtained a 1275 marina engine - opened the sump plug and out ran extremely thin (almost like paraffin) at room temp evil smelling black liquid. On removing the sump pan - the sump was caked with thick black sludge - which took some scraping off. Yet - that engine has perfect bearing journals - the shells were not scored or even seriously worn (but I have fitted new anyway) and the bores and pistons/rings are all in fine fettle too! So the rule seems to be - as long as there is something going round the engine - it survives. Problems come with lack of oil due to low level and/or surging on corners - even a couple of seconds with no oil spells disaster. Not immediately of course - but once wear sets in - the end is in sight.

[rayofleamington]

So - I/We should be looking for certain spec numbers?

API - SF and above are fine for 6000 miles in a Minor. the last letter indicates spec level (e.g. SJ is better than SH). For a tuned engine, probably SH as a minimum.
For ACEA ratings - in a tuned 1275 you'd be after A3, but that seems normal with a higher APU rating anyway. I'm not really sure about lower ACEA ratings as the API will be tell you enough.

Oils without an API or ACEA rating are unlikely to be 'quality' oil, despite what is written on the container. However as mentioned for occasssional use and low mileage, the advantages of a good rating are lost.