Hi Squiggle
Done my tappets after getting tappet spanners came to conclusion that it was a b****r of a job and may have been easier hanging from the rafters and with an extra arm grafted on let us know if it works and post on a few pics
Ian
ian.mcdougall wrote:Hi Squiggle
Done my tappets after getting tappet spanners came to conclusion that it was a b****r of a job and may have been easier hanging from the rafters and with an extra arm grafted on let us know if it works and post on a few pics
Ian
OH heck. Don't tell the guy who is offering to do them
Will report back later.
1952 Series MM, 918cc sidevalve, 4 door saloon in Empire Green with a matching hotwater bottle
0-60 eventually
My Dad who was a mechanic for over 40 years reckons it easier to take the engine out to do the valves!! I did mine at the same time as the rebore and still found it an fiddly job even on the bench.
Hi all
Changed head gasket on my car just over two weeks ago after gasket went had a problem with one of the studs pulling out of the block when tourqueing it down,helicoiled it and got the head back on. Used it for a couple of days and then took it to a local show. When i got home lifted the bonnet to find 4 of the nuts had oil seeping out and one had water seeping out, have to admit two were seeping oil before gasket went but more now, i asume it is because studs go into oil ways and water jackets.I am going to take head back off remove offending studs, replace using thread seal and hope none need helicoiling, does anyone have similar experience and did they do the job another way
Regards Ian
I replaced all the studs in mine with new as the old ones were very badly rusted away at the bottom. I dont think they go into the oil ways just the water ways on the manifold side of the engine. I didnt use any sealer just made sure the studs were really tight before replacing the head.
The mystery of the oily studs. I have some of those. They must go into the oilways I can't think of any other way the oil could could get to them. There are certainly no oilways in the head.
On the subject of adjusting tappets, it is possible to do it with two spanners.
Hold the cam follower (the bottom one) with one spanner, slacken the lock nut (the centre one) just enough to be able to move the adjuster (the top one). Take the spanner off the lock nut and use it to move the adjuster, with the feeler gauge between the adjuster and the valve. There should be just enough tension to be able to set the adjuster without moving the lock nut. When set, tweak the locknut tight.
Adjust the valves as the opposite valve opens and mark them with a piece of chalk. No need to do them in order.
I've got a late MM block here that I bought years ago. None of the head bolts appear to go through into anything but metal. No waterways or oilways pierced Might it be gunk from the threads being boiled and squirting back up the stud?
I had thought about re-bolting the engine when I came to rebuilding it (after doing one aero engine and my 1275, so, maybe next year??) and wondered about getting metric AN/MS or NAS aero-grade bolts and lathing the shafts down to the thickness of the innermost diameter of the thread over about 80% of the grip length (end of thread to bottom of bolt head) to allow some gap between the bolt and the sides of the hole in the iron or alloy head. There is also the advantage that the stretch of the bolt is now more equal along the length.
There is a nice "How to" book on nuts, bolts and washers etc by a chap called Carroll Smith. Worth a read if you can find it. 1001 things you didn't know about bolts!<br><br>
Ian, I just bought metric threaded bolts and cut them to the right length, tapped out all the holes and tightened them into place. Mines has the early engine without the water pump and the studs on the manifold side definately go into the water way.
Last edited by DAVIDMCCULLOUGH on Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Hmmm, yes my proof reading and typing skills are sooooper
Actually I just preffered the spelling you'd used so I copied it ;-)
I meant I'd not seen the drawing before. ;-)
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Back on the subject of oily studs, it is the centre row studs between cylinders 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 so I guess I am burning a bit of oil and the excess is getting past the head gasket to the studs. There is also a trace of oil on the 3rd stud back over the water jacket. The engine has to come out for a rebuild so the problem will be solved.