steam and oil all over the place... - now engine change

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:35 pm

quick question is the engine and box the same in a 65 as a 68 minor 1000 saloon? as I notice the electrics are a bit different, I have a side entry dizzycap and screw in lead on the coil, apart from that I don't see any difference, just wanna check this before I do the transplant. I hope to swap the electrics over as the original engine in this car had an alternator, and the donor one has a dynamo.

any advice greatly appreciated.

P.S. just posted progress on the engine bay in the bodywork section.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:06 pm

Yes - straight swap. Dizzy caps are generally swappable too - unless later style dizzy from a Mini has been fitted. Just fit the alternator to the replacement engine !

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:12 pm

cool thats all the encouragement i needed

watch this space for the engine swap, coming soon.

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:20 pm

Ok I have prepped the engine and box in Brenda for removal, I'm getting the crane tomorrow hopefully. I notice that the thermostat housing was in a bad way, cracked and covered in white powder corrosion, my problem is I cant get the darn thing off the head, its stuck fast, any ideas?

Ive soaked it in WD40, whacked it with a mallet and tried carefully prizing at it with a scraper, but to no avail. has anyone had this before and how did you fix it?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:57 pm

Very common problem - you can try heat from a gas blowtorch - but it's highly likely you will have to smash it to get it out of the way. When you fit another - run a drill bit up the holes to 'ease' them slightly - and smear grease on the studs before fitting the new cover.

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:21 pm

excellent, my new housing arrived today, so I will do as advised, not smashed the old one off yet but about to take the nessicary action to it tomorrow.

Today I lifted the engine out of my 65 saloon, and then replaced all the mounts for new ones, striped off the dynamo and older dizzy cap, then mounted on the alternator and more modern dizzycap> dropped the engine and box in (getting the mounts to sit in the holes on the towers was a bit of a pig, but with the help of my little crow bar and bit of brute force and ignorance it fitted like a pair of badly tailored suit trousers). Then I hooked all the wiring up.

Next job fitting gearbox cross member that was badly bodged before, and reconnecting the clutch mechanism, fit new exhaust refit carb, and then replace heater valve. new rad as the old one had next to no fins left on the matrix, and then all the hoses need hooking up. Then final try and get the thing to make some noise.

busy day tomorrow. photos threatened.

learned loads in the past few weeks about the car

regards

Nigel

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:24 pm

Well done. Nearly there! You are 'supposed' to take the bolts out of one tower and slide it to the side to get the engine mounts on!!

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:30 pm

ahh

oh well I can advise that is probably a better way

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 8:42 pm

Thermostat housing done, I hit another problem today, all I have left to do is hook up all the coolant hoses and put in the rad, however I decided to replace the old leaky heater control valve and I mashed the thread up on one of the studs, there is not enough to recut the thread, so I'm gonna have to try and remove it.... rrrrrrrrr I don't know how ill do it but i gave it a good squirt of penetrating oil and will give it a go in the morning, once this is fixed then I should be ready to try and turn the key.. I wonder if it will start...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 8:46 pm

The stud should come out easily enough - just don't snap it off! It's 1/4" UNF - if no spare stud just use a bolt!

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 2:02 pm

done it, got the engine all assembled and connected up and today I turned the key - started first time, no smoke...

Not used to that, clean exhaust and the engine ran a bit fast I noticed the throttle cable was a holding the throttle open a bit far so I released it and set it back on the cable now she runs a bit more respectable speed however she has a very soft clutch, when she drives it seams as though its slipping, might try and adjust it so that increases the bite but I'm not sure if I'm barking up the right tree here?

Post by **nigelr2000** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:51 pm

There needs to be a couple of inches of free play in the pedal before anything engages as it were. This is because the release bearing is only a ring of graphite and it will wear quickly if it is engaged all the time. Did you use the cluctch off the old engine or the new ? it may be that if it is off the old engine it may have been worn contaminated with oil making it slip or if off the new one it may be worn out, did you ever drive the other car? Hope the adjustment sorts it.

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 6:31 pm

Well I adjusted it right out making the linkage almost as long as it can be, and I have an inch of free play in the pedal. The clutch is not from the old engine, and yes I did drive it but only about the garages as it wasn't road worthy, and then I wasn't used to driving a minor daily. The bite in the clutch is really high compared with what I'm used to, going up a hill it does seam to pull up, but the engine seams to have more umph about it but it doesn't seam to get to the wheels. I don't know what I'm feeling as im driving it weather its slipping or just worn out, but I would have thought that a worn out clutch would have a lower biting point.

Post by **MarkyB** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 6:38 pm

Don't worry about the biting point too much. An inch of play is plenty.
If you used clutch parts from both cars there will be a bedding in period, as long as the clutch still has some play and doesn't slip you are good to go.
Enjoy the fruits of your labour, take it to a rally

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 6:45 pm

I would but embarrassment factor 10 with the amount of holes in my minor. Could write a song about each one. I did take her out for a 10 mile run and touched 50 at one point, not ready to brave the bypass yet, but so far so good, just don't want it to let me down on the run to work tomorrow. Might give her a wash and hope that helps

My main question is how do I know if it is actually slipping? I suppose engine racing and going no-where.

Post by **MarkyB** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 7:04 pm

Any slippage will show up first in top gear if you change up too soon then give it some wellie slippage would show as engine revs increasing with no increase in speed.
There is no "embarrassment factor" most Minor owners have "been there done that" and are happy to see another one that is being taken care of not neglected.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 7:39 pm

Simple clutch test - park in open area, apply handbrake hard, clutch pedal down - select top gear - rev engine up hard - lift foot straight off the clutch. The engine should stall pretty much immediately if the clutch is good - if it keeps running - new clutch time !

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 7:48 pm

Ok point taken you need to have the rough to remind you what is smooth. I will have to get in contact with the local branch and give a run a go. Actually have some fun with my minor...

I think i will take her out for a few runs and see if she starts to settle in, i think i will then know if the clutch is dodgey. Better start assembling the other engine with a new clutch and box... just incase

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 7:49 pm

ahh BMC thanks i will try that tomorrow morning

Post by **nslocomotive2** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:47 pm

well BMC the engine did stall but not immediately, I wonder if it will improve in time, or its on its way out either way i'm on the lookout for the bits to re-assemble to old engine so its ready to go back in asap. I dont know weather to try and refit the valves on the old head as I dont know where to start in doing them, or just find a new head.... but im considering my options