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for those with Series MM sidevalve cars produced between September 1948 and February 1953
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RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

Is there anyone with more experience than me who can help Squiggle get the head off her sidevalve.
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mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

Plus gas down the studs and leave for 3 days.
Remove any studs that will come out
Replace plugs, dizzy and all the other bits, leave head bolts off and try starting and running the engine.
Tap under projection on right side of cylinder head with club hammer and tap sideways on opposite side of head.
Drive a thin wedge through the head gasket a little at a time on both sides of the head

When did Chrissie last have it off?
Last edited by mike.perry on Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Dean
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Post by Dean »

mike.perry wrote: When did Chrissie last have it off?
Sorry can't help you there. :lol:



Best of luck removing the head.... these things are sent to test us sometimes.
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rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

Is there anyone with more experience than me who can help Squiggle get the head off her sidevalve.
did the nylon rope trick not work?
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
alanworland
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Post by alanworland »

Have it off, nylons - what has become of our web site!

If you go for the 'running the engine' method unless the system is also filled with water it wont be able to run for long (might be enough) but to put water in the system and then run it for as long as it takes will obviously result in a bit of a wet mess! Not too much of a problem unless it pours down the distributer drive opening.
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mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

Running the engine dry for a minute won't damage it but what compression there is may be enough to lift the head.
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RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

rayofleamington wrote: did the nylon rope trick not work?
I cant work out how to get the rope into the chamber on a side valve - the plugs are not above the pistons.

Mike we have lost the compression on all cylinders now the head has lifted a few thou but it doesn't want to go any further.

I tried to move the studs with no sucsess - I had them locked with two nuts but don't want to break them.
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8009STEVE
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Post by 8009STEVE »

Roger. If the head has lifted a bit, is it not possible to run Plus Gas down the studs, retighten the head (this will move it down), more PG and lift it again. Repeat, and eventually it should move, hopefully.
mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

If the head has moved have you got room for a thin wedge between the head and block? Tap it in until it is tight, knock it out, repeat on the other side and back to front. Make sure that Chrissie keeps you supplied with tea and biccies.
If all else fails try kicking the hub caps :cry: :evil:
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Keith
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Post by Keith »

If you could tow the car to my house, I'll get the head off....Keith
RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

I'll see what we can do.
Ray has an a frame and I have a towcar.

We just need to get the two together!!
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Ian46
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Post by Ian46 »

From my experiences with difficult heads over the years - I would recommend tapping it back down to the block first using timber cushions so you know it is 'square' to the studs, and start the process again. Add releasing fluid down the stud holes (over night) and see if any studs can be removed the following morning using two nuts tightened together on the stud in question. After which tap the head up using timber wedges and raise it evenly so it remains parallel to the block otherwise it will become stuck again.

Regards Ian
MarkyB
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Post by MarkyB »

As you have some movement albeit tiny, you are on the road to success.
I'd bolt back up and torque it down then run it (without water) for 30 seconds or a minute to warm things up a bit then remove the nuts and start it.
Basically you need to move it up and down to break down the rust between the studs and the head.
If you do as Ian says then if it sticks knock it back down again then up again you will succeed.
Be patient and it will come off :)
Dean
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Post by Dean »

Didn't the head removing fairies appear overnight? They never do when you want the swines!
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ASL642
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Post by ASL642 »

No he tied them us using the rope :lol:

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rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I cant work out how to get the rope into the chamber on a side valve - the plugs are not above the pistons.
ah - sorry!
The only sidevalve I've stripped was a lawnmower engine and it had a plug straight over the piston.

A-frame is available. I think it's in the back of my 72 van so it's not too far from home.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
teenoes
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Post by teenoes »

regaliaqueen wrote:No he tied them us using the rope :lol:
last seen running away in nylons :wink:
JWK

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Squiggle
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Post by Squiggle »

WOW !

I've just found this thread.

Major thanks to everyone for your support.

If we go down to Keith's I can deliver that valance to you.

If we go to Ray's I might see Luke...treat!

Must get some cake as have only 'watered' roger with black coffee so far.

And healthy roasted/soy sauce seed mix snack. He's worried 'I'll make him healthy' :lol:

BTW I've not had it off and it's possible it's not been off for 57yrs :wink:
Nor do I wear nylons!


1952 Series MM, 918cc sidevalve, 4 door saloon in Empire Green with a matching hotwater bottle
0-60 eventually
Squiggle
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Post by Squiggle »

alanworland wrote:Have it off, nylons - what has become of our web site!

.
Yes, it is a little concerning eh Alan? :lol:


1952 Series MM, 918cc sidevalve, 4 door saloon in Empire Green with a matching hotwater bottle
0-60 eventually
Squiggle
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Post by Squiggle »

Keith wrote:If you could tow the car to my house, I'll get the head off....Keith
And indeed he did. But won't tell me how :lol:

Good news it's a burnt out exhaust valve.

Really, really grateful for all the ideas and support.


1952 Series MM, 918cc sidevalve, 4 door saloon in Empire Green with a matching hotwater bottle
0-60 eventually
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