Replacing NS Rear Wheel Cylinder
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- Minor Addict
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Replacing NS Rear Wheel Cylinder
Hi there, I am a newbie here but not to spannering and tinkering on cars!
I need to replace the Near Side Rear Wheel Cylinder, I have never touched a wheel cylinder on a Morris Minor before. The car is a Morris Minor 1000.
I am wondering if you could help me with some advice.
Firstly I would like to find out what spanner sizes will I need for the job and other items?
And could someone briefly talk me through this, if you could tell me any little tricks to make this easier, I would be very grateful.
Many thanks.
I need to replace the Near Side Rear Wheel Cylinder, I have never touched a wheel cylinder on a Morris Minor before. The car is a Morris Minor 1000.
I am wondering if you could help me with some advice.
Firstly I would like to find out what spanner sizes will I need for the job and other items?
And could someone briefly talk me through this, if you could tell me any little tricks to make this easier, I would be very grateful.
Many thanks.
Firstly -welcome to the Forum! If you need a (free!) copy of the Workshop Manual - PM me.
And - No - you can pop the rear cylinders out -without disturbing the hub or half shaft. Takes a little 'wiggling' - but it can be done. The only 'spanners' required are for the brake pipe fittings. Ideally - get two cylinders - and fit new on both sides of the car. Slacken off the handbrake adjustment - remove drum and shoes - disconnect handbrake cable - put plastic bag under the top of the brake fluid master cylinder (top it up first!) - then undo the brake pipe fitting (usually 7/16" AF spanner - but can vary) - wiggle the old cylinder out - pop in the new - reconnect brake pipe and handbrake cable - refit shoes and drum. Adjust up the brake till rubbing - then back off 1 notch. Connect handbrake cable - bleed brake. Re-adjust the brake at the drum - and finally - tighten up the cable adjustment to set the handbrake as you like it. Simples !
And - No - you can pop the rear cylinders out -without disturbing the hub or half shaft. Takes a little 'wiggling' - but it can be done. The only 'spanners' required are for the brake pipe fittings. Ideally - get two cylinders - and fit new on both sides of the car. Slacken off the handbrake adjustment - remove drum and shoes - disconnect handbrake cable - put plastic bag under the top of the brake fluid master cylinder (top it up first!) - then undo the brake pipe fitting (usually 7/16" AF spanner - but can vary) - wiggle the old cylinder out - pop in the new - reconnect brake pipe and handbrake cable - refit shoes and drum. Adjust up the brake till rubbing - then back off 1 notch. Connect handbrake cable - bleed brake. Re-adjust the brake at the drum - and finally - tighten up the cable adjustment to set the handbrake as you like it. Simples !
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You won't need a lot of tools - my guess is:
Very big straight blade screwdriver
Big straight blade screwdriver
Pliers
hammer
7/16" spanner (for brake pipe)
? maybe 5/8" spanner or socket for brake banjo bolt
find somewhere flat to park
chock all the other wheels securely and remove handbrake
loosen wheelnuts on offending wheel
jack up carefully and remove wheel
place wheel on top of spare wheel under car nearby where you're working (for something safe for it to land on incase something odd happens and it falls off the jack)
Round the back of the brakes, find the handbrake lever and end of the handbrake cable.
Remove split pin and remove pin to release the cable from the lever
remove boot from rear if there is one
undo brake pipe and remove from banjo bolt
Undo and remove banjo bolt
rotate drum until hole is aligned just below the bottom of cylinder - hopefully in line with the brake adjuster head.
De-adjust the brakes (turn adjuster anticlockwise)
undo the countersunk screw (if there is one) holding drum on
tap and wiggle the drum off
use the v.big screwdiver to lift the shoe up and remove the adjuster.
lift the shoes up at the cylinder and drop them off the side of the cylinder.
jiggle the shoes to remove theme from the assembly / remove springs
now the easy bit - slide the cylinder to the top of the slot and tap it out of the slot
Remove cylinder completely using hammer - give it a litle tap with the hammer to ease it past the hub.
Re-assy is pretty much the same in reverse order, but:
1) the copper washers on banjo may need cleaning up
2) the brake pipe might not have survived being undone
3) pre-fill the brake cylinder with brake fluid
4) make sure you fit a new boot to the rear of cylinder / handbrake lever
5) adjust the brakes up and test without re-attaching handbrake cable
6) when refitting handbrake cable make sure it's not pulling the brakes on.
and don't loosen/move the axle flange as it could damage the gasket.
Very big straight blade screwdriver
Big straight blade screwdriver
Pliers
hammer
7/16" spanner (for brake pipe)
? maybe 5/8" spanner or socket for brake banjo bolt
find somewhere flat to park
chock all the other wheels securely and remove handbrake
loosen wheelnuts on offending wheel
jack up carefully and remove wheel
place wheel on top of spare wheel under car nearby where you're working (for something safe for it to land on incase something odd happens and it falls off the jack)
Round the back of the brakes, find the handbrake lever and end of the handbrake cable.
Remove split pin and remove pin to release the cable from the lever
remove boot from rear if there is one
undo brake pipe and remove from banjo bolt
Undo and remove banjo bolt
rotate drum until hole is aligned just below the bottom of cylinder - hopefully in line with the brake adjuster head.
De-adjust the brakes (turn adjuster anticlockwise)
undo the countersunk screw (if there is one) holding drum on
tap and wiggle the drum off
use the v.big screwdiver to lift the shoe up and remove the adjuster.
lift the shoes up at the cylinder and drop them off the side of the cylinder.
jiggle the shoes to remove theme from the assembly / remove springs
now the easy bit - slide the cylinder to the top of the slot and tap it out of the slot
Remove cylinder completely using hammer - give it a litle tap with the hammer to ease it past the hub.
Re-assy is pretty much the same in reverse order, but:
1) the copper washers on banjo may need cleaning up
2) the brake pipe might not have survived being undone
3) pre-fill the brake cylinder with brake fluid
4) make sure you fit a new boot to the rear of cylinder / handbrake lever
5) adjust the brakes up and test without re-attaching handbrake cable
6) when refitting handbrake cable make sure it's not pulling the brakes on.
and don't loosen/move the axle flange as it could damage the gasket.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
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handbrake lever is at the bottom - pipe is near the top. Some may leak out but priming really helps with bleeding.However, as the pipe union is at the bottom wont it all leak out?
a tip I missed - if the beeding isn't right first time, de-adjust the brakes so the piston has plenty of travel. Pump it up and push it back a couple of times will help to flush any remaining air out of the cylinder.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
The master cylinder is filled right up - thinish plastic bag placed on the opening - and top refitted. This 'seals' the cylinder and minimises (usually totally prevents) any fluid running out while changing the slave cylinder. Obviously won't hold for 'ever' - so you have to get on with the job. When all reconnected - remove bag - and bleed the cylinder as normal. Often it just starts running through - complete with air bubbles - sometimes you may need to assist it to get the flow going.
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- Minor Maniac
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If the gods are smiling on you and the pipe doesn't twist when you start to undo it then I just run it back far enough to Allow the big fitting to turn then undo that.
It is vastly easier to thread this back into the cylinder than to thread the pipe fitting in.
If someone has overtightened the pipe fitting this can be almost impossible.
Easier to do than explain, but very worthwhile if the pipe is in reasonable condition.
It is vastly easier to thread this back into the cylinder than to thread the pipe fitting in.
If someone has overtightened the pipe fitting this can be almost impossible.
Easier to do than explain, but very worthwhile if the pipe is in reasonable condition.
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it must be many years! especially when trying to gravity bleed a cylinder full of air that doesn't have a bleed nipple.It's a while since I did one of these
plastic bag/clingfilm tip works better on modern cars, but for a Minor you only need some bluetack/chewing gum over the minute vent hole in the cap.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
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- Minor Addict
- Posts: 761
- Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:08 am
- Location: West London
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Hi there folks, I have found the two spanners the 7/16" and the 5/8", I am going to do it this weekend weather permitting!
If I am topping up the master cylinder, what oil do you recommend me to get that will be compatible with the stuff already in there?
I have just thought of another question, where would safe trolley jacking/axle stand points be on these babies?
Thanks again!
If I am topping up the master cylinder, what oil do you recommend me to get that will be compatible with the stuff already in there?
I have just thought of another question, where would safe trolley jacking/axle stand points be on these babies?
Thanks again!
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- Moderator
- Posts: 7679
- Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 2:55 pm
- Location: LEAMINGTON SPA
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technically speaking it's "hydraulic fluid", not oil, but that's just being pickywhat oil do you recommend me to get that will be compatible with the stuff already in there?
Some bog standard Dot3 or Dot4 brake fluid will be fine.
if using a scissor jack, the axle mounting plate (the one with the U-bolts through it) gives a good flat surface for jacking. Trolley jack may not fit there.I have just thought of another question, where would safe trolley jacking/axle stand points be on these babies?
Axle stands go under the axle. I've always thought it best to put them as near to the spring as possible.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block