1275 Timing Gear
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:55 am
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- MMOC Member: No
1275 Timing Gear
I'm having difficulty undoing the the big nut that holds the main timing gear to the crank. Anyone got hot tips?
I've tried using a 33mm socket on 1" drive bar with extension, but it's not budging. I'm a little worried about damaging the timing chain. Throwing some heat at it did occur to me.
Thanks Grant.
I've tried using a 33mm socket on 1" drive bar with extension, but it's not budging. I'm a little worried about damaging the timing chain. Throwing some heat at it did occur to me.
Thanks Grant.
Regards Grant
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
Hmmm - the timing gear is not held to the crank with anything - it is however held to the camshaft with a shallow nut ? Or are you struggling with the crankshaft bolt - that holds the damper to the crank ? Usual method for that - after knocking back the locking washer - is to have the arm of the drive bar resting on the nearside chassis leg - and jab the starter - using the black button under the bonnet so it can't actually start. But these bolts CAN be ferociously tight - I have had many a battle with them on Mini engines - and beware it is all too easy to bend the end of the crankshaft. If it is however the camshaft nut - it usually responds to a sharp short shock. Don't worry about the chain - you should be renewing it anyway. If all else fails (gasps of horror from the fainthearted) use a chisel and a heavy hammer. You can sort out any damage on the nut afterwards with a file - or get a new nut!



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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:55 am
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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Thanks BMC.bmcecosse wrote:Hmmm - the timing gear is not held to the crank with anything - it is however held to the camshaft with a shallow nut ? Or are you struggling with the crankshaft bolt
It's is the shallow nut.
The engine is one I ripped out of a marina van from a paddock. So unfortunately it's not in the car.bmcecosse wrote:Usual method for that - after knocking back the locking washer - is to have the arm of the drive bar resting on the nearside chassis leg - and jab the starter
bmcecosse wrote:Don't worry about the chain - you should be renewing it anyway. If all else fails (gasps of horror from the fainthearted) use a chisel and a heavy hammer. You can sort out any damage on the nut afterwards with a file - or get a new nut!
I'll give the local BMC agent a ring and see that he has a nut and chain, before attacking with a chisel.
-Regards Grant
Regards Grant
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:55 am
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
- MMOC Member: No
It's a simplex with tensioner. True, will need new pad. The engine is going to be a rebuild. I'm just getting a beetle on at the moment as, the workshop at work won't be there for too much longer. Other wise it's going to be a nibble away at it jobbie.bmcecosse wrote:Well - you certainly want a new chain - is it duplex or simplex ? The nut will be fine - just dress it with a file. If simplex with tensioner - be sure to get a new 'pad' for the tensioner too! And gasket and oil seal of course too!
Regards Grant
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
AK7508 - Purple 1954 Series II
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- Minor Legend
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I've had to use heat and lots of brute force to free off a stuck cam shaft nut.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.