Chassis drain holes?

Post by **mjkp52** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:20 pm

Hi
I recently purchased my first traveller and am hugely grateful to the MMOC website for the wealth of knowledge available to the previously uninitiated (i.e. me!). Re. the subject above I have found useful posts regarding drain holes in woodwork and doors, and I am wondering if anyone knows if there should be any drain holes in the longitudinal chassis members (and cross members come to that); two drain holes in the engine compartment seem to open directly into these but there are no obvious corresponding holes underneath. It has had some underseal applied quite enthusiastically at some stage so maybe this has hidden them (and hopefully not too many yet to be discovered "bodges"........). There is nothing documented in either the workshop manual or the Haynes.
Cheers!<br>

<br>

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:00 pm

Yes, there most definitely should be drain holes to let the water out. Failure to have them leads to rusting from the inside. Well formed chassis legs will have a rounded shield facing forwards with the hole towards the back. Cills usually have just a punched or drilled hole about 3/8 diameter. If there are no holes then you can just drill them at the lowest points. If using an electric drill then be wary of water dropping down from the car! Once drilled and dry, paint the hole to avoid rust. It's also useful for squirting in rust proofer.

Post by **jonathon** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:05 pm

Paint the hole, your'e a magician too

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:53 pm

Well formed chassis legs will have a rounded shield facing forwards with the hole towards the back. Cills usually have just a punched or drilled hole about 3/8 diameter

Original sills would have had the same shielded drain holes. Generally these are nolonger featured on new panels - which usually means the new panel fails quickly...

The original drain holes on chassis legs are at about half way from front to back - not too far from the gearbox crossmember.

Post by **jonathon** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 4:14 pm

Easy enough to form the shield on new panels.

Post by **mjkp52** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:31 pm

Thank you all for this very useful information - shall be donning the overalls shortly!

Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:34 pm

a few people have talked about a "shield" I assume by this they mean put a big screw driver / bar in the hole you have just drilled and turn it so you push up one side and push down the other side so that any water runs out more easily... make sure the "down" side of the hole is towards the front of the car to "shield" the hole..

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:14 pm

I assume by this they mean put a big screw driver / bar in the hole you have just drilled and turn it so you push up one side and push down the other side so that any water runs out more easily...

that's about the best you can manage for retrofitting drain holes, but the original had a bit more finnesse

Post by **alainmoran** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:32 pm

If you ever do decide to strip back that enthusiatically applied underseal, might I recommend using GUNK to soften the underseal and then wiping it off with a clean rag (you will need LOTS of clean rags, old towels are great)

I'd strongly recommend doing this, its a horrible dirty job and takes absolutley ages, but the things you find are horrific, but you will be glad of having found & sorted them in the long run. (can anyone say filler used in place of weld or patches stuck on with glue

)

Post by **taupe** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 11:16 pm

The position of the three drain slots each side can be clearly seen on the new shell on ebay at the moment. Follow the thread under cars for sale and view the underside as larger image.

There are two similar ones about a third way down the front chassis rails - they should be there on your car and thats what youre trying to replicate.

Ive copied the image to my computer as it will be good for reference.