Suspension bolt size

Post by **Sidney'61** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:18 pm

Hi,
Which sort of bolt do I use to hold the two suspension arms together, mine needs to be hacked off but I can't a replacement with any of the stockists.
Number 58, 59 and 60 in the haynes manual diagram

Thanks

Post by **andrew.searston** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:18 pm

try some wd40 leave it to soak in and then use the biggest breaker bar youve got to undo then. use your body weight as leverage.
i find it works as you dont get the leverage with a rachet

Post by **Sidney'61** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:27 pm

When you try it enough times eventually the end of the bolt goes round and you can't get a spanner on it anymore! I'm afraid the angle grinder has to come out!

P.S. I'm sure other member on here would have something to say about the use of WD40! Can open a big can of worms...

Post by **8009STEVE** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:31 pm

Unless You want Concourse, then use suitable sized modern nuts and bolts.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:46 am

Better with proper release agent type oil! There - is that what you wanted ?? And perhaps the correct sized socket in the first place ? When re-assembling - smear grease on the threads - both before and after assembly. Next time it will be so much easier.

Post by **Kevin** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:58 am

Sidney'61 wrote: P.S. I'm some other member on here would have something to say about the use of WD40! Can open a big can of worms...

Me for one although WD40 does a lot of things its not designed for this sort of thing as Roy has mentioned use the correct product the most common being Plus Gas.

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 10:16 am

that the one i was thinking of. although i have used wd40 before on seized bolts and i does help a little bit for cleaning threeds ect

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 10:47 am

If it's all you have - it's worth a shot!

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 10:51 am

Make your own release fluid with by mixing old engine oil with parafin and spraying it onto your siezed nuts and bolts from an old spray bottle (bleech type ones etc).

Post by **andrew.searston** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 11:06 am

never heard of that one psl184
ill give that a go next time i need to undo a siezed bolt. sounds a good idea and it saves buying wd40 very eco freindly

Post by **aupickup** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 11:46 am

look on the wd40 website for its uses

Post by **MarkyB** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:03 pm

I saw this recently, from America I guess as I don't recognise some of the brand names.
the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine
comparison test.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ........ 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in
this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it
with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for
about 20% of the price.

ATF and acetone, eh? Might be worth a try.... I wonder how they hit on that
as a brew?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:41 pm

Aye - but the acetone will soon flash off -leaving you with just the ATF. Can't argue - it does seem to work well enough though.

Post by **8009STEVE** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:49 pm

Acetone

[edit] Flammability
The most common hazard associated with acetone is its extreme flammability. It auto-ignites at a temperature of 465 °C (869 °F). At temperatures greater than acetone's flash point of −20 °C (−4 °F), air mixtures of between 2.5% and 12.8% acetone, by volume, may explode or cause a flash fire. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition sources and flash back. Static discharge may also ignite acetone vapors.[13]

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:52 pm

Ideed - but Wimmin use it take the fancy paint off their nails ! So - it seems to be acceptable for domestic use!

Post by **autolycus** » Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:38 am

8009STEVE wrote:Unless You want Concourse, then use suitable sized modern nuts and bolts.

Using correct bolt sizes and grades isn't a matter of Concours points -it's more about pride in a job done properly and safely. Assuming that by "modern" Steve means ISO metric, rather than UNF/UNC to replace BSF or Whitworth, most sizes don't fit very well. 6mm for 0BA is fine in practice, but rattles in holes meant for 1/4"; 8mm is sometimes OK in place of 5/16, but 10mm is quite a bit bigger than 3/8, and 12mm is too big for 7/16 but rattles around in 1/2". Then there's the question of grade - 8.8 bolts are OK for most applications, but market stall bolts may not even be that grade. Worth checking head markings of original bolts to make sure they weren't particularly high tensile strength, particularly for critical applications.

And don't you just hate getting all the way under your car with a 1/2" spanner in your hand, only to discover some clown's fitted an 8mm bolt?

I'll reinforce Roy's point about greasing bolts, too: all too rarely done, but wonderful when you find one that's been done years before. Use Coppaslip if you like, but not where Aluminium is involved.

Kevin

Post by **millerman** » Tue Jul 21, 2009 3:57 pm

I thought acetone and cellulose thinners were the same! yes/no?

Post by **autolycus** » Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:59 pm

Cellulose thinners may contain acetone, but is also likely to contain toluene and methyl ethyl ketone, and may have odd acetates and alcohols.

Kevin