Barn-type find - getting engine running

Post by **dalebrignall** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 5:56 pm

azda or morrisons 20/50iis the cheapest

Post by **ani** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:18 pm

Looks like it might be ready in time for the National this week-end

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:56 am

Don't bother with the HBOL - I've sent you the link for the real workshop manual!

Post by **MarkyB** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:47 am

Huh?

Things that are traditionally made of lead = lead replacement, geddit?

Post by **cunning_plan** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:55 am

MarkyB wrote:
Huh?
Things that are traditionally made of lead = lead replacement, geddit?

bmcecosse wrote:Don't bother with the HBOL - I've sent you the link for the real workshop manual!

Post by **alainmoran** » Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:37 am

Something I've noticed from looking at your pics ... you might be alright for the MOT, but longer term you are probably going to need to address the rear arches (where the bodyshell meets the inner wing)

From the pattern of rusting your rear windscreen rubber may have perished & could be allowing water in, the water would then run down the rear arches and rust them from the inside out. It's likely when you unbolt the outer wings half of the 'metal' there will come away with it.

The rear arches on a minor are structural, they help transfer the forces from the suspension back into the rest of the shell. This *needs* fixing at some point.

If you do the work yourself, you should take care to grind/melt off the lead (wear a mask) that smooths out the curves at the back before you start welding new sections in or the weld will be contaminated and not be strong enough.

Other than that it looks you have a rather tasty minor there, are those disc brakes I see on the front? Very nice

Post by **cunning_plan** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:28 pm

alainmoran wrote:Something I've noticed from looking at your pics ... you might be alright for the MOT, but longer term you are probably going to need to address the rear arches

Other than that it looks you have a rather tasty minor there, are those disc brakes I see on the front? Very nice

I agree about the arches, we are just trying to get it back on the road for a bit of fun before deciding to go full resto..

Yes Serriera (spelling?) front brake conversion I was told by the PO..

__

Okay, Cleaned everything up, new hoses everywhere, new oil, new antifreeze and water, clean fuel and air filter..

Started up first time without choke, a little smokey but cleared quickly. Chugged a bit, I think it may be missing every now and then - but kind of expecting that.. Sounds quite throaty

Got a couple of issues though gents.. First the dynamo doesnt seem to be charging the battery, the ignition light stays on and putting a multimeter on the battery shows no charging voltage at all

I tried putting on and off the connections but it still doesnt charge.. New dynamo or something else to try??

Second, when the ignition is left on without the engine running, the fuel pump seems to click every 3/4 seconds which is now leaking fuel around the brand new hose connected to the carb - almost like there is too much pressure and its being forced out... Any ideas?

Post by **alex_holden** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:44 pm

cunning_plan wrote:Got a couple of issues though gents.. First the dynamo doesnt seem to be charging the battery, the ignition light stays on and putting a multimeter on the battery shows no charging voltage at all I tried putting on and off the connections but it still doesnt charge.. New dynamo or something else to try??

Try cleaning the contacts in the regulator box (the black thing mounted high up on the driver's side bulkhead).

Second, when the ignition is left on without the engine running, the fuel pump seems to click every 3/4 seconds which is now leaking fuel around the brand new hose connected to the carb - almost like there is too much pressure and its being forced out... Any ideas?

The ticking is normal and it's not possible for them to supply too much pressure. Try tightening the clip on the hose.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:12 pm

Give the dynamo a thump to free off the brushes. If that doesn't work - take it off and clean/free the brushes properly.
Also check - have you connected the battery rightway round ?

Post by **cunning_plan** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:33 am

alex_holden wrote:
Try cleaning the contacts in the regulator box (the black thing mounted high up on the driver's side bulkhead).

The ticking is normal and it's not possible for them to supply too much pressure. Try tightening the clip on the hose.

bmcecosse wrote:Give the dynamo a thump to free off the brushes. If that doesn't work - take it off and clean/free the brushes properly.
Also check - have you connected the battery rightway round ?

Roger that, will try hitting and cleaning (now I know what to clean) the dynamo tonight after tightening the fuel hose clamp some more..

But yes, battery is the right way around, earth is on the right if you look at it from the front. Only thing I have noticed is there is only one lead going to the battery from the splitter thing that goes to coil / starter motor etc - so unless this charges and supplies a charge at the same time??? Not sure - I figured normally you would have a seperate lead going to the battery..

dalebrignall wrote:azda or morrisons 20/50iis the cheapest

Thanks for the tip-off chap, got 6 litres in 1 litre bottles for £1 a bottle in Tesco!

More pictures to come..

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:48 am

cunning_plan wrote:Only thing I have noticed is there is only one lead going to the battery from the splitter thing that goes to coil / starter motor etc - so unless this charges and supplies a charge at the same time??? Not sure - I figured normally you would have a seperate lead going to the battery..

It does both things but not at the same time. Depends on whether there is a net charge or discharge to/from the battery (if you fit an ammeter in it, you'll see that sometimes it's positive and sometimes it's negative).

Post by **cunning_plan** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:10 pm

alex_holden wrote:
cunning_plan wrote:Only thing I have noticed is there is only one lead going to the battery from the splitter thing that goes to coil / starter motor etc - so unless this charges and supplies a charge at the same time??? Not sure - I figured normally you would have a seperate lead going to the battery..
It does both things but not at the same time. Depends on whether there is a net charge or discharge to/from the battery (if you fit an ammeter in it, you'll see that sometimes it's positive and sometimes it's negative).

Thanks Alex.. Thats interesting. The dynamo / ignition light was still on and the multimeter showed that there was no charge going to the battery. Cleaned up wires coming from the dynamo into the regulator box and the box connections. Light dims when its rev'd but comes back on at idle. However, putting the multimeter on the battery shows no charge at all going into the battery even when rev'd - is this something to do with the net charge function?

I know the dynamo is working as there is 4 volts coming directly off it at idle and about 8/10 when blipped the throttle..

Thanks for your help guys - keep it up we are nearly there, once its running okay we will put some tyres on it then MOT lol..

BTW, the fuel leak was just a dodgy jubalee clip, put another one on tighter and its okay now - so thanks..

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:18 pm

cunning_plan wrote:I know the dynamo is working as there is 4 volts coming directly off it at idle and about 8/10 when blipped the throttle..

That doesn't sound right. I would follow the instructions in the workshop manual for testing the charging system.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:57 pm

The charging system is obviously NOT working! It needs to make 14 volts - when on the battery - open circuit it will go much higher.
Simple check - run a temporary 12 volt wire directly to the little terminal on the dynamo - while the engine is running at decent revs - this will throw the dynamo into FULL charge mode - what's the voltage now ?

Post by **cunning_plan** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:29 am

bmcecosse wrote:The charging system is obviously NOT working! It needs to make 14 volts - when on the battery - open circuit it will go much higher.
Simple check - run a temporary 12 volt wire directly to the little terminal on the dynamo - while the engine is running at decent revs - this will throw the dynamo into FULL charge mode - what's the voltage now ?

Okay - run the wire from the dynamo to where - the battery + ?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:51 am

Yes - (if -ve earth). To small terminal on dynamo. - Just a temporary connection - make the connection (at the battery end) after starting the engine - and take it off again before stopping the engine.

Post by **alex_holden** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:52 am

Has the car been converted to negative earth?

Post by **cunning_plan** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:20 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Yes - (if -ve earth). To small terminal on dynamo. - Just a temporary connection - make the connection (at the battery end) after starting the engine - and take it off again before stopping the engine.

Okay, bearing in mind that I have done nothing to the dynamo - no cleaning etc.. Done what you said and it goes up to about 12.68 when reved and 13v when 'bliped' throttle.. What do you suggest now bmc?

alex_holden wrote:Has the car been converted to negative earth?

It looks like a normal setup to me? Earth to the body?

Post by **PSL184** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:32 pm

Don't worry about if it was negative earth or positive earth - the fact is that now it is negative earth... Sounds to me like you should be cleaning the points up in the regulator box (top left on the bulkhead as you look from the front) then measure the voltage at the battery again on a fast idle....

Post by **cunning_plan** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:36 pm

PSL184 wrote:Don't worry about if it was negative earth or positive earth - the fact is that now it is negative earth... Sounds to me like you should be cleaning the points up in the regulator box (top left on the bulkhead as you look from the front) then measure the voltage at the battery again on a fast idle....

Already done that my good man.. However I unwound the screws to get to the connections.. Is there a feeler gauge setting for these?