Front brake sticking

Post by **Bretta** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:39 pm

Hi All,

My front right-hand brake seems to be sticking on after driving a few miles, resulting in a squeaky hub that gets hot.

Is this a common problem that other people have had and is it an easy fix without having to buy any new hardware?

Thanks in advance.
Bretta

Post by **COMMERCIALMAN** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:46 pm

Hi Bretta, Sounds like a sticking wheel cylinder to me. You will need to take the front brake drum off to inspect but slacken off the brake adjusters first. If you are not mechanically minded it might be worth getting someone who is. Im not that far from you.
Regards
Jason

Post by **Bretta** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:50 pm

Hi Jason,

I'm not brilliant with engines but reckon I could have a go with the brakes if not too complicated. I've done plenty of brakes on various bikes and scooters, although I know it's a different ball game with cars.

I've had a look at spare part prices... seems relatively cheap so I might as well buy new ones. Is it a complicated job and would I need to bleed the brakes? I'm presuming I have to buy two cylinders.

regards
Bretta

Post by **COMMERCIALMAN** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:27 pm

Hi Bretta, Once you have got the brake drum off remove the brake shoes making a note of which holes the brake shoe springs are located. Then i would inspect the wheel cylinders for any signs of brake fluid , even if there is the slightest trace i would replace then i would try to move each piston . It might be that there is a build up of brake dust around the piston . i would clean the brake parts with a suitable brake cleaner available at most car spares shop or use some petrol. I would also inspect the inside of the brake drum itself for any high points on the mating surface where the brake shoes connect. I would do all this before you go out a buy new wheel cylinders. Once you have disconected the wheel cylinders from the brake pipes and hose you will need to bleed the brake system. It is more than likely that you may have to replace a few brake pipes as well as these sometimes have to be cut because the brake ends are seized onto the back of the cylinders. All this isnt complicated but there is no room for error with no brakes when you need them. I would put a new set of front brake shoes on the car (both sides) If only one cylinder is faulty then just replace that one.
Regards
Jason

Post by **cormorant** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:36 pm

Check it's not just the adjustment or missing spring - tighten the adjusting screws up until the brakes lock on solid then back off a click. Check the hub revolves without binding. Brakes are nicer if you chamfer the ends of the brake linings with a file, they tend then not to grab - just do a 45 degree angle instead of having them square. Provides a lead in.
Otherwise, yes a cylinder may be seized up a bit. Will need to bleed it through afterwards. If replacing the cylinders be careful to slacken the flexible hose off where it fixes on to the bracket on the inner wing and be careful here as the bracket can twist off and break - use penetrating fluid and go steady with it. Hold top nut steady with spanner and undo bottom nut.

Post by **Bretta** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:48 pm

thanks for the replies, gents... I'll take a look this week and let you know my progress.

regards
Bretta

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 11:27 pm

Usually no need to slacken the flexi hose at the wing - don't do it if you don't have to! If the shoes are not contaminated with leaky oil - and have good thickness of material - just swop one shoe over to the other side of the car, to balance out any 'overheated' brake shoe effects on the braking.