Why is nothing simple!!!!

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:06 pm

I understand the trav/pickup to have a Miget 1279 engine so off to the autofactors to get a new dizzy carp, rotor arm and new HT Leads. No luck - didn't look anything like what I've got. Went to another autofactor - they couldn't help either! Went to Halfords and went through all their boxes of dizzy caps and eventually found the correct one - its a Mini one!!! Didn't have a rotor arm but the place I went to earlier has but they are now closed

Halfords of course couldn't help with HT Leads - didn't have a clue. So back to the autofactor place that was open - he was good ad eventually found some, even though they have the bent over fitting as opposed to the straight one - but ................. they are not long enough

Is it possible to get leads like the ones in the picture with the same fitting each end??

Post by **nigelr2000** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:36 pm

I got a set to fit a mini from my local wilco store. They are 90 degree both ends and fit fine, I also got the dizzy cap, points and rotor arm at the same time. Guy behind the counter had to phone another branch and ask Rod who "knows all about the early cars" who was the one who said early mini ignition parts all fit a minor.

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:18 pm

Thanks for that - managed to fit four but think I'll have to mount the coil on top of the alternator (or dynamo not sure what it is!) to get the fifth one on. New dizzy cap, leads can get the rotor arm tomorrow - still running a bit lumpy. Nevermind it will get better ........ eventually!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:26 pm

Distributor cap needs to fit your distributor - the later minors are all the same and same as Mini of same age.
The problem comes when people swap parts around, so then you need to keep a record of what fits!

AFAIK, all push fit HT leads will fit all A-series engines with a Lucas Dizzy and push fit cap. The only time you can have a problem is:
1) Dizzy drive is installed wrong so the HTs need to be wired to the wrong places
2) You're not using the leads in the correct places (eg shortest to #3 and #4 and so on)
3) The coil has been relocated further away - needing a longer king lead, (however the other 4 will still fit to the plugs)

Post by **aupickup** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:43 pm

u have an alternater and the coil is mounted in the best place
you only need a longer coil to dizzy lead

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:46 pm

Ah well - the picture answers the question

Your post wasn't there when I was writing my previous post, but at least it was on my list of possibles.

For the coil you need to find a spares shop that wil;l sell you a single lead of roughly the right length.

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:46 pm

Yes - but you can't get one!! I've been everywhere today trying

Post by **aupickup** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:48 pm

ah ok

i made mine up

u may just need to do that

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:56 pm

The later dizzys use a larger diameter cap - with the little short clips at the side - and a longer legged rotor arm. Points and caps are differnt too - supposed to be easier to clip them in! But HT leads should still be the same. It will be a 1275 Spridget engine - what's the engine number ??

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:04 pm

No such thing as can't ;-)
Part of the process is finding 'where' to try. I have to admit that 20 years ago every parts shop would be able to sell a HT lead based on length but these days it takes one with a bit of old world style.

One thing always worth finding out locally is WHERE do your parts place get their parts from? If you hear anything like 'we'll be able to get it later today' or 'first thing tmorrow' then there's probably a distributor nearby.
Usually this distributor supplies most of the local garages and spares shops within miles. Unless this place is 20 miles away then it's worth trying them first, and as they work with garages, they will be skilled enought to know how to work out what other parts to use if the first estimated guess was wrong.

Failing that, a quick search on ebay for "HT lead -leads -set -salvaged" gives anything from 40mm to 22 foot of lead...

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:46 pm

According to the V5 the engine number is 10MAUH333388 but I don't know if the previous owner updated the information from the previous 1098 engine!! If not I assume I'll find the engine number somewhere on the engine?

Based on the last posts I'll try to get the longer lead rather than re-mount the coil.

The mini dizzy cap is the same as the old one so I'm assuming that's ok and four out of the five leads do fit ok.

For some reason the engine is sounding a bit lumpy and slightly tractor like. Hence changing plugs, air filter, dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads. There was a slight blow from the exhaust where it joins the manifold - garage fixed it the other day but its back again!! They did say to me that the end of the exhaust was particularly worn and it was difficult to get a good join there. May have to renew the exhaust. if all these things make no difference then its on to the carb which I've topped up wth 3in1 oil maybe would have been better with engine oil as the engine now runs on slightly once you switch it off.

It's never boring is it

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:48 pm

rayofleamington wrote:
For the coil you need to find a spares shop that wil;l sell you a single lead of roughly the right length.

I'll start hunting for one and maybe check Ebay as well. Thanks anyway

Post by **aupickup** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:51 pm

that engine number is a 1098 engine number

running on could be timing or to fast idle speed,
the timing may need sorting this will also give a smoother engine

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:53 pm

Have you checked/reset the valve gaps ? Engine number should be on the little plate fixed to the block - at the temperature gauge take-off point on the head. Compression check will be worth doing too. if it is a 1275 - does it have a large bore exhaust fitted - or just standard? There was a thread a couple of weeks back showing a handy 'brace' bar to support the front pipe from the backplate. The exhaust connection at the manifold may need careful 'panel beating' back into shape - the use a NEW clamp - and a smear of exhaust sealing paste.

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:55 pm

Tried that - needed to speed up the idle slightly because it started to stall so if I turn it down again ................................... I don't want to alter the mixture because the spark plugs look perfect.

I'l go look for the engine number....................

Post by **aupickup** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:56 pm

as bm says check all
and then get the timing right

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:04 pm

Can't see one now - too dark! Top of the engine says MORRiS Re- Manufactured by MOM Spares England! but that's all I can see for now - back to it in the morning. I'm going to take it to the Liphook Classic Car Day so that will at least give it a 20 mile run

Post by **ani** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:10 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Have you checked/reset the valve gaps ? Engine number should be on the little plate fixed to the block - at the temperature gauge take-off point on the head. Compression check will be worth doing too. if it is a 1275 - does it have a large bore exhaust fitted - or just standard? There was a thread a couple of weeks back showing a handy 'brace' bar to support the front pipe from the backplate. The exhaust connection at the manifold may need careful 'panel beating' back into shape - the use a NEW clamp - and a smear of exhaust sealing paste.

I know nothing about valve gaps! I'll get the engine number tomorrow. Do I go to a garage to get a compression check? Standard exhaust I think. When the garage "fxed" it they didn't fit a new clamp. They applied blow torch to the end of the exhaust to try and get it into a better shape to fit before adding copious amounts of white stuff to seal it - which it obviously didn't!! If I go back I think they will just tell me its the best they could do

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:12 pm

Well - their best ain't good enough. Trick is to make sure the bell end is nice and smooth - no ridges (I guess this ws what they tried with the torch) - and clean off the end of the manifold too - then fit the pipe to manifold and hold it up against the manifold with a jck from below(obviously!) - then put a little paste around - and fit a NEW clamp - nipping it up snugly but not so tight it warps the pipe. The rest of the exhaust system need to be mounted so it can move with the engine to an extent - if it's fixed solidly and the engine wants to move - obviously the pipe joint is not going to survive!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:14 pm

Simple check for 1275 engine - does it have covers on the cam follower chests - behind the exhaust manifold ? If yes - then not 1275 - if no, it's a 1275. Compare with your other engine.