hmm i personally think david that for the amount of work patching that inner wind and then wire wheeling the rest, you may find tiny pin holes where the mwtal is wafer thin
i would personally considder a new domed inner wing, new flitch, you will need a flange on the bottom to weld the engine bay floor
Keep up the good work David! Welding to begin with can be frustrating, especially when you constantly keep blowing holes. It takes a great deal of practice to master controlling the heat in the join to stop blowing through. Welding is not something you can rush, take your time. I found rather than welding in a long seam, drill holes through your patch at 15mm intervals with a spot weld drill (10mm dia) and plug weld the patch on. This way you spot weld the patch on, it takes out the frustration while learning. It looks neater too for beginners.
It is described better in the link. This gives you time to master your seam welding skills, but moving along with the project at the same time. ;) Enjoy!
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
aupickup wrote:hmm i personally think david that for the amount of work patching that inner wind and then wire wheeling the rest, you may find tiny pin holes where the mwtal is wafer thin
i would personally considder a new domed inner wing, new flitch, you will need a flange on the bottom to weld the engine bay floor
I agree, you could weld-in a new panel in the time to do a couple of patches.
Dean, I can't wait to try that idea out tommorow, I'd love to replace the inner wing panel with a repair guys, but, ive got so few true original panels on the cab, I need what I have left to keep things lined up. I've got to save as much as I can or I'm doomed to have everything out of line. but this drill and spot welding technique could be a great help for me. I'll need an inner arch lower repair though, its completly missing on mine
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
An even better way David, is to drill holes around the cut out hole in the body work. Then clamp your patch on (or self taper it on) and weld through the body work onto a solid patch. This way you are not constantly fighting to beat the differing thickness of steel on the body work. So basically don't the drill holes through the patch. It's not one for the purist, but the weld will be strong enough. Remove the self tapers when finished. ;)
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
This is MMOC at it's very best, Les, one of MMOC's finest, has made up and posted me a chassis triangle template for me to fabricate replacements missing from my chassis. Thanks Les. I'll keep you all up to date on their progress.
<br><br>
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
here's a couple of shots of the wing welding results, the top picture is the seam welded inner wing, while the lower picture is of the plug welded outer, as Dean suggested..<br><br>
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]
Excellent.. your getting there! Give the new bit of steel a tap with a hammer, if it sounds solid and no vibration. Do a cartwheel, punch the air and shout whoooo hoooo!!!
My Minor:
A Clarendon Grey 1953 4 Door Series II.
MMOC - 66535
Whooo hooo, yeah that feels good. I did a seam weld on the inside because I didn't want moisture getting trapped in between the repair patch and the original panel. I'm feeling pritty chuffed, everyone should have a go at this, it's great fun.
smile, you never know, you might be winning.[IMG]http://i67.tinypic.com/2ro3j37.jpg[/IMG]