Seized Front Brake Drum

Post by **londonboy** » Tue May 12, 2009 5:30 pm

Hi can any one give me any help as to how to get a seized front brake drum loose.
Thanks

Post by **Alec** » Tue May 12, 2009 5:46 pm

Hello LB,

slacken off the brake adjusters first, (I'm assuming the wheel turns?), and try firmly tapping the brake drum rim. If it doesn't move at all, you may need to soak where the drum fits over the hub with Plus Gas or similar penetrating oil (Not WD40, that is not so good)
You have removed the two securing screws haven't you?

Alec

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue May 12, 2009 5:56 pm

You have removed the two securing screws haven't you?

fair point!

However if the wheel won't turn, you will have trouble.

If it does turn, move the wheel round until the drum hole is over the adjuster so you can slacken it (there are 2 and IIRC they are on the leading edge of shoe = clockwise just past cylinders on RH, Anticlockwise past cylinders on LH). The adjusters should slacken off anticlockwise using a flat head screwdriver and if drum is v.tight they may need a lot of effort to get past 1st click - I have a screwdriver with square shank that can be used with a spanner for this purpose.

With adjusters slackened the drum should just come straight off but if the car has stood for long enough it may need a few hammer blows to release it from the hub - generally not many. I've even used a hub puller in the past as it was 2am and far too late to be using a hammer...

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue May 12, 2009 6:20 pm

If you cannot turn the drum, try hammering around the outside of the drum, you may loosen it up. You could try replacing the wheel and towing the car to get the drum loose. Siezed brake cylinders are common on Series MMs and towing can be the best way to slacken the drum.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue May 12, 2009 6:23 pm

If the wheel slides when towing, get a heavy bloke to jump up and down on that corner whilst towing it... (that usually works as long as the tyre holds pressure)

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Thu May 14, 2009 10:25 pm

try undoing the brake bleed screws on the cylinders while trying all the other ideas in the post

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu May 14, 2009 10:27 pm

Just batter it with a 'soft face' hammer - all the way round - it will start to turn - use a pry-bar wedged between the studs to get some leverage on it!

Post by **8009STEVE** » Thu May 14, 2009 11:54 pm

use a pry-bar wedged between the studs to get some leverage on it!

If you can get the pry-bar in.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 15, 2009 7:32 pm

Why would you not? I'm assuming car jacked up and wheel removed! Wedge it between the studs - and stand on it!

Post by **alanworland** » Fri May 15, 2009 9:48 pm

Doesn't sound a nice thing to do to ones studs! (perhaps with the nuts on it might be more acceptable)

Post by **eastona** » Mon May 18, 2009 9:27 pm

Hit it (with a soft faced hammer as BMC suggests)
Heave it (with a pry bar)
Heat it (with a blow torch, although it's a big mass to heat!)

Then if all else fails a couple of axial and a diametrical cut with an angle grinder as a last resort.

Andrew

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon May 18, 2009 10:15 pm

Wow - desperate measures there then !

Post by **eastona** » Wed May 20, 2009 6:43 pm

I've only cut one off, when what I really wanted was the backplate after the wheel bearing incident

.

The whole upright, backplate, brakes and drum had been sitting outside unused and were seized solid, a few cuts, a cold chisel and a hammer and bob's your mother's brother.

Obviously I didn't need the drum again!

Andrew

Post by **1954traveller** » Wed May 20, 2009 7:09 pm

Thanks lads, all 4 of the hubs are seized on me 1954 traveller!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 20, 2009 7:58 pm

Perfectly normal - only to be expected. The clutch plate will be seized on the flywheel too!