thanks alot for your time
moggyminor16
alternater
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moggyminor16
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 775
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2002 9:42 am
- Location: GREAT YARMOUTH
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alternater
hi all can some nice person help me out an let me know how to wire up an alternater if you can please let me know
thanks alot for your time
moggyminor16
thanks alot for your time
moggyminor16
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James - St. Helens
- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2002 11:36 pm
- Location: St. Helens Merseyside
- MMOC Member: No
Hope this helps
It's from www.minimania.com.
HOW TO CONVERT FROM GENERATOR TO ALTERNATOR
The polarity of the alternator can not be changed, so if the alternator you have does not conform to your car, you must change your car. The existing car polarity can be checked by looking at the battery to determine which of the battery leads go to ground.
The ACR series alternators are self contained units; their outputs are as follows: 15ACR-20 AMPS; 16ACR-34 AMPS; 17ACR-43 AMPS; 18ACR & 20ACR-45 AMPS; 22ACR & 25ACR-55 AMPS.
Alternators come in either polarity, however most later ones are negative ground, in which case the alternator will have a + sign next to one of its large output terminals.
VEHICLE POLARITY CHANGE (IF NECESSARY) To reverse polarity turn the battery round and swap the terminals on the battery cables. This will cause problems with tachs, radios, or other electronic accessories.
ALTERNATOR FITTING
1) Bolt the unit on in place of the generator, noting that you have removed two wires from the generator ( a thick one and a thin one ).
2) Push the thick wire with the large connector on either of the large spade connectors ( usually marked S or + ) on the alternator. The small wire goes on the terminal marked IND or WL .
DYNAMO CONTROL - BOX REMOVAL
Locate terminal E on the control box. Disconnect the single black wire as this wire isn't used.
Locate terminal F . Remove the brown/green wire.
Locate terminal D. Remove the brown/yellow or plain yellow wire, and connect it to the brown/green wire disconnected from terminal F in step 2 above.
Insulate the connection.
Remove the remaining wires from terminals AL ; A and D, connect them all together.
Insulate the connection.
What you've accomplished is this:
a) the thin wires from D and F now feed the ignition warning light.
b) the black ones from E is a ground
c) the remaining ones from AL , A and D all connect together take the output from the alternator and feed it to the headlight switch and to the battery.
As you may have noticed the alternator probably has two large spade terminals, as mentioned + and S. These are both the same and can improve your system by putting in an additional cable between the spade terminal on the alternator and the starter solenoid. On the solenoid this extra cable should be connected to the same terminal as the main battery cable ( not the starter motor feed ). Use only thick heavy wire (e.g. size 65). This will make the system more efficient by reducing the voltage drop, specially when the alternator is putting out a lot of AMPS. If required, a radio interference suppresser, 1UF capacitor, can be connected between the S or + terminals to ground.
PARTS NEEDED Alternator; alternator mounting bracket ( it's longer than the one for the dynamo-since the alternator is much shorter ); maybe a new fan belt; battery clamps, insulating tape.
I got all the parts I need from a marina. A metro alternator will do. for the alternator braket - http://www.morrisminor.org.uk/catalogue/ele06.htm
They charge £9.00. If you got the alternator from a scrap yard as I did it works out very cheap. My one change was to use a spare Dynamo Control box cutting the guts out of and using it like a connector block. I did not need to cut one single wire. It look original and can be change back very easly.
James
It's from www.minimania.com.
HOW TO CONVERT FROM GENERATOR TO ALTERNATOR
The polarity of the alternator can not be changed, so if the alternator you have does not conform to your car, you must change your car. The existing car polarity can be checked by looking at the battery to determine which of the battery leads go to ground.
The ACR series alternators are self contained units; their outputs are as follows: 15ACR-20 AMPS; 16ACR-34 AMPS; 17ACR-43 AMPS; 18ACR & 20ACR-45 AMPS; 22ACR & 25ACR-55 AMPS.
Alternators come in either polarity, however most later ones are negative ground, in which case the alternator will have a + sign next to one of its large output terminals.
VEHICLE POLARITY CHANGE (IF NECESSARY) To reverse polarity turn the battery round and swap the terminals on the battery cables. This will cause problems with tachs, radios, or other electronic accessories.
ALTERNATOR FITTING
1) Bolt the unit on in place of the generator, noting that you have removed two wires from the generator ( a thick one and a thin one ).
2) Push the thick wire with the large connector on either of the large spade connectors ( usually marked S or + ) on the alternator. The small wire goes on the terminal marked IND or WL .
DYNAMO CONTROL - BOX REMOVAL
Locate terminal E on the control box. Disconnect the single black wire as this wire isn't used.
Locate terminal F . Remove the brown/green wire.
Locate terminal D. Remove the brown/yellow or plain yellow wire, and connect it to the brown/green wire disconnected from terminal F in step 2 above.
Insulate the connection.
Remove the remaining wires from terminals AL ; A and D, connect them all together.
Insulate the connection.
What you've accomplished is this:
a) the thin wires from D and F now feed the ignition warning light.
b) the black ones from E is a ground
c) the remaining ones from AL , A and D all connect together take the output from the alternator and feed it to the headlight switch and to the battery.
As you may have noticed the alternator probably has two large spade terminals, as mentioned + and S. These are both the same and can improve your system by putting in an additional cable between the spade terminal on the alternator and the starter solenoid. On the solenoid this extra cable should be connected to the same terminal as the main battery cable ( not the starter motor feed ). Use only thick heavy wire (e.g. size 65). This will make the system more efficient by reducing the voltage drop, specially when the alternator is putting out a lot of AMPS. If required, a radio interference suppresser, 1UF capacitor, can be connected between the S or + terminals to ground.
PARTS NEEDED Alternator; alternator mounting bracket ( it's longer than the one for the dynamo-since the alternator is much shorter ); maybe a new fan belt; battery clamps, insulating tape.
I got all the parts I need from a marina. A metro alternator will do. for the alternator braket - http://www.morrisminor.org.uk/catalogue/ele06.htm
They charge £9.00. If you got the alternator from a scrap yard as I did it works out very cheap. My one change was to use a spare Dynamo Control box cutting the guts out of and using it like a connector block. I did not need to cut one single wire. It look original and can be change back very easly.
James
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olonas
Alternator
A Lucas fuse holder/ connector, same as already fitted to Minor can be used in place of the control box, makes it much easier to connect wires that were removed from control box. Can be purchased from most Minor parts suppliers.
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James - St. Helens
- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2002 11:36 pm
- Location: St. Helens Merseyside
- MMOC Member: No
I did think of doing it that way. My suggestion was that by using the control box as a connector block that car still looks original. As I stated the method I used meant that I did not need to cut any wires, that way it could be changed back with out any problems.
The method I used was
Cut the guts out
Use the connectors for the original wires plus add a bridge wire
Use one of the original mounting screws as an earth terminal ( a ring to a male spade )
Originally the plan was to do the bridge internally, but I don't have a soldering iron at the moment. There would be then a spare connection to move the earth wire to. I may change this at a latter time.
The method I used was
Cut the guts out
Use the connectors for the original wires plus add a bridge wire
Use one of the original mounting screws as an earth terminal ( a ring to a male spade )
Originally the plan was to do the bridge internally, but I don't have a soldering iron at the moment. There would be then a spare connection to move the earth wire to. I may change this at a latter time.