Hello,
I am preparing my convertible to go trough the French MOT. And I have a problem: can't set the doors so they can close properly. When I measure the door aperture, I find less than 930mm (sorry, I am not comfortable with inches) and when I measure the door, I find 920mm. Is less than 10mm enough to adjust the door properly? The other problem is the door must go up but can't because of the tilt windscreen pillar. I have thought to put shims under the bottom hinge... My concern is she has recently had an outside respray so what can I do to increase the clearance without touching the paint? Please, anybody to help me?
Could you post a photo for me/us.
The gap you give would suggest that you could set a 5mm gap either end of the door. However if the door needs lifting it would indicate a problem with either the hinge pillar or the setting of the sills.
The doors window frame can be adjusted to a degree to help achieve a better fit. Use some tape over the painted areas (not too sticky if its fresh paint) remove the door card and loosen off all of the window frame fixings, this should allow some rear movement of the frame (unless someone has already done this). If this allows the room to lift the door and align it with the peg and socket then simply add shims to the bottom hinge pillar
If not then if there is room, shim the top hinge to move the door back and try again. If this does not work then the issue is more involved.
Pictures would help greatly, one of the hinge pillar ,B post and the door shut.
Thank you Jonathon for your reply.
Here some pictures...<br><br><br><br>
B post driver side<br><br>
sill repair !!!!<br><br>
hinge pillar<br><br>
passenger side, a little better but same fight, I'am affraid!
I don't remove the kick plate from this side... not yet!
I think I can win some millimetre by grinding the gutter witch is flaking from place to place (see picture)<br><br>
So what do you think I can do without "rebuilding the car"?
Friendly
Yves.
Has the welding just been done on the drivers side. It looks ,from the side view that the top rear edge of the door overlaps the rear 1/4 which would indicate a structural issue as the front edge of the door is close enough to the hinge pillar and screen.
Put a jack on the cross member and jack up the car slowly to see if the top gap increases.
I fear however that the work performed on the sills has shrunk the gap or the gap has not been accounted for during welding.
Unfortunately, it seems you are right. I jack her under the cross member both sides and same result: gap increasing.
I don't believe it! I bought her £2950, crossing the channel to get her back home. I thought I should get a car with a sound body for that money (that's the seller said to me).
In France, the MOT must have been done every 5 years for historic cars. What can I do now to fit the doors as well as possible to get the MOT done and enjoy driving her until I'll rebuilt the sills and pillars properly in, let us say 5 years?
Many thanks.
Friendly.
Yves
That's a real shame. One thing ,before we get drastic, is there any play in the hinges,( open the door and see if you can lift it.
There is no real short term 'proper' fix, the last thing you want to do is try and re jig the car as it is. It looks as if someone has already tried a 'dozer ' on the B post as its quite dented.
Easiest quick solution is to find another door in reasonable condition (it only has to last 5 years) or until you can afford a proper repair. Simply bolt it up with good hinges make sure that the peg and socket are in line and supporting the door. Draw a line on the door as to where the gap should come (ideally 5mm between the B post and door, then cut thi shut line into the door, weld this up and repaint the door. Its a drastic solution, but you really want to leave the tub alone at this stage until you can effect a proper repair
really sorry to see that sort of repair and at that sort of price you would expect to have it done properly. Classic case of not suporting the top and bottom of the door gap with bracing struts before cutting out the old sills and welding in the new bits.Can you not get some compensation from the seller
Hello Kennatt,
I am not very comfortable asking the seller a compensation. Did he even know the problem? I am not sure. Of course, it'll be fair but must come from the seller himself! What is bothering me is what kind of temporary and not out of cost reparation can I do to enjoy my car now. I like her so much!
Really is gutting to see this. Unfortunately i think you will have to accept that some animal has mauled your baby and thats that. Looking at that repair (i use the term losely) you are gonna get all sorts of problems with the shell flexing and doors popping open at inopertune moments. Spend the money now and sort it out propery it really is the only way to go.
Sorry to be so blunt,all the best
Rod
MMOC are in force in France on the MOT from the 23 - 30 May.
Are you anywhere near St Julien des Landes in the Vendee where the MOT participants will be staying? I'm sure somebody would come along to have a look, although Jonathon has given some sound advice re modifying the door.
I would have been more than happy, unfortunately I am living near Grenoble and it's a long way from home...
Thank you everyone for your support and wise advices. I really appreciate a lot.
You should check - is the car a Convertible - or is it a 2 door car with the roof chopped off ? Real convertibles have strengthening in the sill area to prevent this happening. Did you buy the car privately - or from a Dealer or Restorer ?
Check the chassis plate. If it is a genuine convertible it should start MAT---, if it is a 2 door it will start MA2S. If the car is before 1958 it will be FC--- for a convertible, FB--- for a 2 door.
Does the chassis plate look original?
Is the number on the chassis plate the same as the number stamped on the bulkhead next to the accelerator cable?
The chassis plate number is: MAT3847815, so basically a genuine one. I don't know what is the number stamped next to the accelerator cable. I must have a look this evening...
Good evening everybody,
I tried to find the stamped n° on the bulkhead without success. I look near the accelerator cable. Is there any other known location?
