Pick up Restoration (Part 1)

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sun May 10, 2009 7:55 pm

Yes normal socket, it shouldnt even be too tight

I can never remember the actual torque figure but they are supposed to be pretty tight. (a fact that I overlooked for quite a while but got away with it)

My socket set is only a 12 pointer but always managed to get them off. Occasionally i've needed to resort to the torque wrench as it's twice as long as my socket wrench, and sometimes had to stand on the end... but normally not.

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:01 pm

Off came the large nut, quickly followed by the hub, nice and neat, no apparent damage to the hub or me.

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:02 pm

Next on the list was the backing plate, with no problems, I'm on a roller here...

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:04 pm

That king pin has a slight taper toward the outer end, is that how it should be shaped or is it worn away?

Post by **aupickup** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:05 pm

thats how it should be, to allow for the spacer, and thats the stub axle

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:10 pm

I need to bury my nose deeper into my haynes manual to find out what the king pin is, as they are apparently hard to come by, I want to be sure to look after them.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:12 pm

the king pin is the upright bit where the trunnions go on, also called swivel leg

the threads should be nice and flat, if they are pointed then the threads are worn

try the trunnion for side ways move move ment

if you get stuck i have several new old stock ones

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 9:20 pm

I find I'm in at a fork in the road, if I take off the front suspension on both side, one side at a time, of course, I'll be able to withdraw the torsion bars and scrap the old chassis remains, moving me closer to getting the cab ready for its re build, but, the front suspension, or rather the "wishbone" arms are what the car is sitting on and keeping the bottom up, presenting it for cutting and welding...

Post by **davidmiles** » Sun May 10, 2009 9:27 pm

this shot shows what I'm on about, a nice gap under the rusty edges that need cutting and rewelding, remove the front suspension and down it comes. I'll have to find another way of suspending the cab so I can get at those bottom edges

Post by **aupickup** » Sun May 10, 2009 9:35 pm

ah right

can you brace teh cab and take the doors off and then all the suspension bits
les has done this job he may well be along at the moment
or pm him

one way or anothet they have to come off to restore the cab

Post by **tonicaek** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:01 am

This is utterly fascinating to watch progress, very good way of logging the goings on of the job.
Shamefully makes me look forward to the day I can get my hands on the father's rotting Traveller in the garage!

Post by **davidmiles** » Mon May 11, 2009 12:36 pm

hip hip Horay!! the last of the chassis is dragged clear from under the cab, the bolts holding the torsion bars have been soaked in oil for the last few days and off they came with a little mouse like squeek. First time my cat has been interested in the restoration project.

Post by **davidmiles** » Mon May 11, 2009 12:46 pm

And, whats more this morning I solved the problem of lower rust edges clearance, the simpler solutions are the best, as an S.A.S jungle survival instructor said to me and about fifteen other guys,
"necessity is the mother of invention.." (but then he said "so you guys obviously have wanted for nothing all your lives") pull up a sandbag, swing that lamp, I'm chuffed.
This sturdy timber box is the solution, in the right place of course.

Post by **davidmiles** » Mon May 11, 2009 12:51 pm

One little tip I can impart in my flegling restoration experiences, before you begin, collect as many pots, tubs, egg boxs, chocolate box's as you can, they become invaluable as you progress. and are easy to write on, as you can imagine, I didn't have to wait long for these particular box's to become free for my use.

Post by **davidmiles** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:05 pm

The next stage moved on at break-neck speed, freeing the king pin, torsion bar and arms...

Post by **davidmiles** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:07 pm

Now I only have one last point of contact between the king pin and the car, and that is this steering ball jointed attachment erm.. bit. Now, how does that come off?

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Mon May 11, 2009 5:41 pm

Hmmmm, would have been easier to take this off before you dismantled the rest...... Is the top trunnion still attached to the shock absorber? This will make it easier. If you have a ball joint spliter use that. If not 2 heavy hammers, put your castle nut back on though not tight to protect the thread. Place one hammer behind the steering arm and hit the front with the other one. It will eventually pop out. Good luck

The adjusting plates for the torsion bar, make sure you take note before you clean and paint them which hole the bolt was in, then hopefully when you put the whole thing back together it will sit at the right height!!

Post by **Dean** » Mon May 11, 2009 7:43 pm

Showing off with your pictures now I see...

Excellent progress though.

Post by **davidmiles** » Tue May 12, 2009 12:32 am

Thank you DM, I'll make a note of the correct locating hole, like you say, so its put back the same way, same ride height. Mind You, J might have some thoughts on ride height....

Post by **davidmiles** » Tue May 12, 2009 12:39 pm

Well that son of a b....eventually came free, with the geometric positioniong of timbers and an old wheel, its the first time Ive used a mini sledge hammer on this project, next time, (ie the offside) I'll knock that little so and so out earlier, before I strip off the supporting components.