is it possible to put any moggy distributor in any moggy car or would it have to be a certain type. I have been told the mini engine is the same engine ( I think ) as the A series moggy one, so therefore would a mini dizzy be ok for a moggy '56 splitscreen.
cheers mungo
One to to watch is the vacuum advance unit - early cars had a metal pipe, later ones a plastic pipe, and the fittings are different. It is possible to swap the units between the different bodies.
generally it is not a good idea to fit distributors from different cars even if they look identical, or from the same type of engine. Lucas distributors have a number stamped on the side, and if you check you will find that say a MIni and a Minor have different numbers. This is because the specifications are different, as are the vacuum units them selves.
If you need a new distributor, look for a good second hand unit of the correct type or ideally have yours reconditioned.
The actual settings inside the dizzy are not all that important (mech advance/vacuum advance) - and that can easily be sorted out. Over the years the dizzy types have changed- but if your car has a 25 D Lucas dizzy - then yes - a similar Lucas 25 D from a Mini will fit fine - it may even go rather better!
I'm surprised at that remark as there can be significant differences between similar units.
I don't have the data for 'A' series engines but the same topic on the Triumph 2000 register led me to check the curves. Generally there were four variations for the same engine over the life of the model, with quite different settings both in terms of the actual total mechanical advance and at what RPM they started and finished advancing. In all there are more than a dozen different specification distributors for the 2000 and 2500 engines for the saloons alone (never mind sports cars and Vitesse models) and I would imagine that the 'A' series will have similar differences?
I know Alec - but to be honest, the standard A series engines are so modestly 'tuned' that the differences in dizzy internal settings are really not going to be all that important. The old dizzy will be so worn/springs weakened/vacuum advance unit long since passed away that it will be working far from the original spec anyway! In any case - the original settings would be for 'leaded' petrol, and now we have a very different fuel. Hence my idea that a dizzy from a later Mini may well be better set up for modern fuel than the original, and allow the engine to perform better!
yes, you make a good point.
This subject is quite common in forums and my thought is that having a correct, preferably reconditioned distributor is the best way. I also am not convinced that the often touted idea that using electronic ignition will cure a worn distributor?
Anyone know how much advance the vacuum is supposed to give?
I can see the plate turn when I suck on the pipe but am wondering about the timing on the Sprite as it's always popped rather loudly on the overrun and feels sort of 'nervous' at low throttle openings but pulls quite happily when I boot it.
Not sure how I'll be able to suck on the vacuum pipe whilst laying on the ground pointing a timing strobe at the crank pulley though.
Mark the base plate and wall of the distributor, then suck. Make a note of where the baseplate mark moved to, double it and that is your degrees! (distributor moves half crank speed so all movement is double what it appears).
There are (or at least were) different vacuum units available - with different amount of advance, and different 'cut in' settings. To be honest - as long as it works - it will be fine - it only applies on closed throttle (and idling) - so not really important for overall performance. Early Sprites - like Minors - always popped/farted on the over-run!
the vacuum advance module has a set of figures stamped on it, the first is vacuum (inches of mercury) at which the unit starts to function, the second being the vacuum at which maximum advance occurs and the last being the maximum amount of advance (engine, not distributor)
And yes, there are scores of different but seemingly identical units about depending on the engine.
"Thinking of the electronic ignition would be superior to the old fashioned minor stuff."
No, not entirely true, there are pros and cons to electronic systems. The other and far more important factor is if the distributor curve would match the 1098 engine, which I suspect it would not.
The maestro one will be from an A plus engine clmped by a fork rather than the 2 bolts on the A+. The base of the distributor will need machining down so the A series clamp mechanism can be used and the shaft going down the middle will be wrong too!
The dizzy is ECU controlled, but the ECU is mounted to the distributor itself and is a matter of connecting 2 or 3 wires appropriately - so the electronic side is the easy bit
What type of dizzy was in the Maestro? The numbers will be stamped on the side. The drive mech design was changed - along with the clamping method, during 1275 production. So - if the 1275 dizzy was held in by a Y fork and a single bolt - then NO it won't fit a 948/1098 block (at least not without radical changes) - but if it was held in by the same dsign clamping plate as the Minor dizzy then YES it will fit. As Alec points out - if electronic then you will need all the gubins that goes with it! My view - stick with good old points!
Looking through all the mods and upgrades, I haven't yet seen a maestro distributer upgrade - hence, I assumed that it was not reasonably possible.
The electronic bits seem like they should be straight forward but I was wondering about the mechanical fit.
I have a maestro van, a spare Maestro engine and distributer in addition to a metro A+ series vehicle, a marina engine - all 1275's and the 1098 morris 1000. So now I know it might be possible, I have to have a good look at the set up on each and suss it out. Good point about the clamping and machining required.
With all the trouble I have had with points over the years and the good reliability I have had with the Maestro van, I think it would be worth the upgrade if it is doable.