Full crossmember replacement

Post by **Dryad** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:20 pm

I'm thinking of replacing the full crossmember on my Traveller as it has already had one end replaced and that's now looking seriously flakey. The strip along the entire length of the bottom is also looking a bit rippled. Also, a patch of floor where the replacement end was welded is also beginning to rust through, although the rest of the floor is original and very solid. I know replacing a full crossmember is a big job and requires serious alignment, but I would feel happier knowing the whole thing is replaced. Now is a good time as the engine and gearbox are out and the propshaft removed. What I wanted to know is has anyone here done it successfully before, and would they recommend it? I can't afford to have it done at a garage.

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:06 pm

Its a big job but fine if you take your time. Free all the nuts connecting the torsion bars and carefully drill out all the spot welds from above, there are also a couple of big gas welds near the middle. Clean and repair the old patch at this stage. The new crossmember can be put into place and the torsion bars back into place and the whole lot welded up. Use a combination of plug welds via the spot weld holes and seam welds to give plenty of strength. This panel is quite heavy metal so make sure your welder is up to it before you start.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:20 am

The real question is - can it be done from below, or is it better to roll the car on it's side ? Has anyone done this 'from below' ? I'm going to be faced with this job sooner or later - so any experience will be welcome!

Post by **Dryad** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:07 am

I'll be working from below, in an inspection pit so at least I don't have to be on my back. Should I bolt the torsion bars to the crossmember before I weld it up?

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:12 am

i would have said yes to get the alignment and check diagonals against a fixed point in the front like the eye bolt etc

there is probably a measurement in the manual

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:16 am

Take some pics please Dryad - and keep us up to speed as the job progresses.

Post by **MarkyB** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:56 pm

You'll have to take the weight off the front wheels too surely?
I think there is still a fair amount of tension in the torsion bars even when the shock arms are on the lower stops. If isn't too much it might work to your advantage I guess.
I wouldn't worry too much about it being "a bit rippled " as long as the upright piece is sound, that's where the work is done.

Post by **Dryad** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:12 pm

I thought I might have to detach the lower suspension arms as I remember having to replace a lower arm before and having to use a jack to get it to reach the lower link pin. I think whoever had my Traveller before gave up on it because the MOT tester had been very harsh - there's yellow chalk striped along the entire length of the crossmember, as well as some other places where there is just surface rust. I'll take some photos and upload them soon so you can judge for yourselves.

Post by **MarkyB** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:37 pm

Some testers are very classic car unfriendly and will decide to fail anything old before they test it, then back up their decision with trivialities.
The cross member is a rust sandwich in the making ( Like the van gutter ) but the strength is in the upright part.
If that hasn't bulged there is little to worry about.
Just take it to an MOT guy who has a clue and isn't prejudiced.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:08 pm

I think it will be best to remove the torsion bars before renewing the crossmember - to get access to the 'chassis leg ends' where they are welded to the crossmember. And yes - the weight will need to be off the front suspension to do that.

Post by **Dryad** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:11 am

Now I've had a closer look at the crossmember I can see that a long strip has been welded along the length of it and it's this that is beginning to ripple. See

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0075.jpg

but the ends don't look as bad as I thought;

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0071.jpg

and

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0070.jpg

but I have noticed some bulging in the crossmember - particularly around the propshaft hole.

I might replace it just for peace of mind, and so I don't have to do it in a year or so's time.

Post by **alex_holden** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:14 am

That doesn't look bad to me. I'd just remove the torsion bars, clean off all the surface rust, and maybe replace the worst parts of the bottom strip.

Post by **PSL184** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:37 am

Looks good to me too....

Post by **Jefftav** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:07 pm

Hi All,

Last year I had the centre xmember and chassis legs replaced. I have put the link here - http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr28 ... ra0017.jpg - to see what was done. The bloke doing it said he never uses a roller for these jobs as he prefers the car up right and no additional weight placed on the chassis. He also got me to remove the torsion bars, exhaust, wiring loom, fuel and brake lines. When I got the car back everything lined up OK and I was able to assemble the suspension without too much trouble.
Hope this helps. Jeff

Post by **Dryad** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:26 pm

I shall give it a good scrub down with a wire brush and see what it looks like then. I'd be glad to not have to replace it as I've got enough to do with replacing the wood and respraying the bodywork. Jeff - looks great - should last you a good 30 years!

Post by **MarkyB** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:43 pm

The second picture looks like they finished the job off with a coat of sea water!
If they had used some weld through primer and/or some seam sealer welding the strip alone the length it would have lasted a lot better.
Might be worth redoing properly.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:29 pm

The X member looks good for a bit yet - however the sills (especially one crumbly looking part) look very much worse for wear. Worry more about them than the X member at the moment.

Post by **stag36587** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:51 pm

Presumably it's possible to just repair/replace the "wrinkly bottom" strip if the rest of the crossmember is OK? Mine looks in similar condition to this one.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:49 am

May be possible - but the X member is two pressings back to back with the strengthening strip along the bottom. When you remove the strip - there may not be much to weld to!

Post by **Dryad** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:27 pm

That's exactly the problem; I've just had a bit of a poke around by tapping lightly with the ball end of a small hammer and I discovered this;

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0089.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0090.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0080.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0084.jpg

and also the L/H chassis leg, which I suspected because it had the usual cover patches; http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w50/ ... CF0083.jpg

I think I will definitely go for a full crossmember replacement, but only after I've replaced the L/H chassis (half) leg.

Apart from the sills, and the wood, the rest of the car is good