Marina was more common if it was done in the 80's
Sierra was more common since the mid 90's, and presenlt Sierra and Escort are common.
Other stuff like Midget can also be done.
The wheel stud pattern can be a give away - if it has Ford wheels, then Escort / Sierra.
If it has Marina 13" wheels, then Marina
However, any of the kits can be converted to keep the Minor wheels...
Sometimes it's best to take the pad to the car spares shop (the main distributor/shop will have the best stock on site) then you can compare the pads to the replacement to find the right ones.
Has anyone done a marina disc conversion, and if so do you know the torque setting for the hib nut, and how much to back the nut off afterwards, cheers Ben
Ben,
The procedure for this (& any other tapered wheel bearing hub) is to nip up the hub nut, then back off slightly so there is a slight amount of preload on the bearings. Too loose, you'll have freeplay. Too tight, the bearings won't last.
The wheel should spin freely, just slightly slower than if the bearings were loose.
Scott
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
[url=http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7259/nullabor25ns.jpg]1959 Van[/url]
Cheers scot, when you say nip up..is there not a torque setting then? Aslo i think my discs are binding slightly as they have just been fitted so how do i tell if its the bearing thats causing it to slow not the dics, other than by the sound?
iwant1,
Did you remove the cup seal frtom then m/c? that can cause binding disks.
The other likely cause is sticky calipers (especially on old second hand parts).
to check the wheel bearing, carfully push the pads back a bit so they are clear of the disk, then it should be easier to feel/hear the bearing
so how do i tell if its the bearing thats causing it to slow not the dics, other than by the sound?
Pop the pads out while you are adjusting the bearings, nipping is just putting enough pressure to take up all the slack the torque would be tiny 3-5 lb max I would think but I have never used a torque wrench for nipping up so its a bit of a guess.
Beat me to it Ray
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Yeah i removed the little rubber from the valve cup, do you mean to prise apart the parts just whilst i check, or to take off the calipers then refit when set up?
No need to take the calipers off while setting the bearings, Ray meant just push them both back to give clearance on the disc or as I suggested just remove them if new as getting the clearance can be a bit tight.
Beaten to it again.
I must stop work getting in the way of posting
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
if the pads won't go back any further it might be best to remove the pads ( especially when new as there isn't always any clearance).
with modernish Ford (pin slider) calipers you just need to remove one allen bolt and then the whole, caliper pivots out of the way - makes a very quick job!
Excellent guys! all odne and no need for new bearings, took the calipers off in the end seeing as its not too hard. Although theres loads of play in the top part of the suspension can i tighten the nut up to get rid of the play, looks like theres a split pin to go through there as well.