bodywork

Post by **nicky573** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:13 pm

yes the screw is damaged. will i have to renew all of it.

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:58 pm

any one no a way of geting that screw out.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:13 pm

Put a really good screwdriver on it - and give it a thump (not TOO hard) with a hammer. Then try again to remove it. You are turning it the right way - anticlockwise ? Why do you want to fit new points anyway ??
I'm sending you a PM with the workshop manual download. lots of good reading!

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:51 pm

car is backfireing. and now it will not start. i got to get them new points on. the car so it will start again. i have killed it.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 3:48 pm

Not by any means necessarily needing new points! Could be any number of reasons for non-starting. Check first if there is a spark at the plugs - and are the plugs in good order, and not soaked wet with petrol!

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:01 pm

fited new plugs two days ago.

Post by **alex_holden** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:15 pm

This discussion has drifted away from Bodywork - perhaps a mod could split it off into a new thread under Mechanical?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 5:23 pm

Indeed it has! Sure you put the leads back on correct order ??
Should read 1342 anticlockwise round the dizzy.

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:01 pm

i put the leads back on one by one. the car started befour. i fited new plugs new filter new rotor arm. i had a go at fiting new points. but that screw will not move. so i put the old ones back on. now it will not start.

Post by **stiguk** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:47 pm

is the gap right on the old one
may need to adjust it

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:10 pm

Don't understand how you managed to put the old points "back in" if the screw couldn't be removed? Have you had the points out yet or not? Is the a gap of about 15 thou when the heel of the points is on cam?

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:13 pm

what gap. and how do you adjust it.

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:24 pm

have not had the ponts out yet. i just took of a nut to fit condensor.

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:26 pm

If you look on top of the dizzy with the cap off you will see a squared off centre spindle. The heel of the points runs on this. When the dizzy spins the spindle rotates and open and closes the points gap. If you turn the engine on the starting handle whilst looking at the points you will see what I mean. At the point that the heel is on cam the gap of the points should be around 15 thou (as a base atarting point). You adjust it by loosening the screw you say you can't loosen and then slide the base plate of the points until the gap is correct. Did you re connect the correct wire to the low tension side of the coil when you changed the condenser?

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:50 pm

pm<br>

<br>

Post by **nicky573** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:57 pm

is everying in the right place.

Post by **Dean** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 8:25 pm

It looks right yes, but you may have done the same as what I did. That nut where the orange and black wires go to on the end of the points? You may be creating a short or not allowing the power to get to the points. Someone may advise as I can't remember off my head how the wires should be situated here.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:49 pm

As above - the condenser wire must be insulated from the body of the dizzy - and connected ONLY to the points. I sent you the workshop manual - it's all detailed in there!

Post by **nicky573** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 4:30 pm

are you supposed to see a spark when you take the distributer cap off when you try and start the car?

Post by **emmerson** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 5:46 pm

Nicky, I believe you live in Pontypool? Some time ago, I offered to come down and look at your car, but you didn't reply. The offer still stands. Do you want some help?