Does anyone know if boot floor repair panels are available that include the two domes for the dampers?
Turned Molly on her side yesterday now I've repaired and secured the front floor and sills, to find that things are worse than I thought in her behind
Basically she's down to paper thin floor from the front spring hangers all the way back, with the exception of the prop shaft tunnel from the oil. The near side isn't as bad as the off side, but still not good.
Any thoughts, or am I down to trying to bash some domes from sheet?
Ive never saw that panel listed in any of the catalogues, you can get the bumpstop though. Unless you can find a scrapper (saloon or traveller as its the same) to cut better ones from the easiest option would be to start making your own.
Keep up the good work, it always worth it in the end!
The only panel I remember seeing is the rear part that extends up to the opening for the fuel tank - not much good in this case. Looks like a home made fabricated panel job.
Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
Thanks all.
I've asked a couple of the retailers and they've never heard of a panel for the domes either. Apparently it's usually that well covered in oil from the diff that it doesn't rot.
Where there is oil it's ok, but where its dry its gone through.
Oh well, looks like I've got to practice some metal bashing, my only problem with that is what my old woodwork teacher diagnosed as "You use a hammer like lightening boy!", ie I never hit the same place twice.
Thanks again, got some work to do as I've promised to get Molly on the road for the National as its her 50th birthday. (Only taken 6years so far)
bmcecosse
I have assumed that they are there to give clearance to the dampers at the bottom of travel, I don't know how close they get because I havent got any bump stops as yet - or front spring hanger for that matter now.
Steve_PFJ
Yes they are, I havent cut into the domes, but cleaning up from underneath with a wire brush on the grinder brings out pin holes. The paint (?) on the boot floor is bubbling off as well so when I attack that side with the wire brush, I'm sure it will get even thinner.
Seems like I'm the only one to have had this problem, so I'm going to have to try and form them in some way.
I'll have a go at forming them, but one last thought, what are your thoughts about welding a couple of these? (suitably cut and without handles of course)
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Would I be able to MIG weld galv steel, nasty gases aside?
I wondered why I couldn't see another XWF registered cat at the National last year (sorry if I missed yours), living by the sea at Hull obviously didn't go to well with Moggies!
britab1967 wrote:Seems like I'm the only one to have had this problem, so I'm going to have to try and form them in some way.
I'll have a go at forming them, but one last thought, what are your thoughts about welding a couple of these? (suitably cut and without handles of course)
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Would I be able to MIG weld galv steel, nasty gases aside?
I wondered why I couldn't see another XWF registered cat at the National last year (sorry if I missed yours), living by the sea at Hull obviously didn't go to well with Moggies!
Don't see why not - if the pot has a suitable thickness of metal to match the floor pan. I understand with galvanised steel that you have to clean away the galvanised area so you can weld to the bare steel but have never welded with GS myself.
I'm going to try forming them first but may re-visit the idea if it doesn't work.
Some great photo's of your restoration, much of the same work as I'm tackling. There won't be much original floor left by the time I've finished. What have you used on the floor inside as it's obviously more than the usual layers of paint on the original?
Sometimes I prefer welding with galvanised because it will never corrode ,I have a piece in my pick up ,I put it there 5 years ago and it is still going strong...Might be a idea to put seam sealer on the weld because that will rust...
Good luck, I have made some wacky things as well ,more recently with a morris hubcap...
Not got around to it yet. Took me longer to finish the nearside sill than I thought, and I've started on the crossmember replacement first.
Theoretically, the galv should rust before the weld as it is the sacrificial metal in contact with the mild steel. But that's only theory.
Welding galv is not to be advised. You will never get all of the zinc off and it will produce some really toxic fumes, not to mention give you a crappy weld.
I must have been lucky - never had to repair that bit so hadn't noticed 
