Guttering

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Lukey
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Guttering

Post by Lukey »

Right chaps I need to sort this guttering out. Here's the pics:

This is the wost

Image

Which leads on to this:

Image

The guttering is actually OK it's just where it meets the roof, what do you think I should do to repair? How deep do you think it goes?
'67 Morris 1000
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Doesn't look too clever. Replacement guttering is available - to weld on.
ImageImage
Image
Lukey
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Post by Lukey »

So I should cut from the guttering? I've seen the repair pannels is this OK? http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 7001825797 curious why it's cheaper than the others.
'67 Morris 1000
PAULJ
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Post by PAULJ »

Mate, I replaced all my guttering not a nice job but worth If your gutter doesn't look too bad, it will be once you start investigating it. The Haynes resto book explains how to make new gutters but buying then is easier. I got mine from Birmingham MM in four parts. You can peel the gutter backwards from the roof and pull down. This reviles the spot welds which you can chisel. Start a one end and peel it back as you go, this helps. once all off, clean the edge which is where the roof meets the sides of the car. Drill some 6mm holes about 4" apart all the way along the new gutter. Use claw type welding clamps (mole grip types) to clamp the gutter on. Use as many as you can get hold of, beg steel and borrow so you can clamp the hole side on in one. Them weld away in the holes you drilled earlier.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!
PSL184
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Post by PSL184 »

That link looks like Traveller rear roof guttering.... Iwould rub down yours and treat with kurust or similar then just repaint it. Assuming the flange is not compromised. Most show signs of surface rust in these areas but it is mostly just that - surface rust!!
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Lukey
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Post by Lukey »

Ah fantastic I'll get the manual tomorrow. It's the front N/S of a four door saloon. Aint no surface rust, can't tell from the picture but in the flesh you can see the two pannels being forced apart.

Why is it rusting like this in the first place?
'67 Morris 1000
PSL184
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Post by PSL184 »

Ahh, not good then.... I guess water gets trapped under the gutter and between the roof flange. Might be worth trying to get some seam sealer in there when you've replaced it to stop it happening again....
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IaininTenbury
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Post by IaininTenbury »

Lukey wrote:So I should cut from the guttering? I've seen the repair pannels is this OK? http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 7001825797 curious why it's cheaper than the others.
Thats the stuff. Looks from the small picture shown that it comes in a straight length, so you have to curve, stretch, shrink and fold it yourself to fit round the contours of the body. Other suppliers may supply it preformed, hence price diff.
I normally drill out the spot welds and peel the old one off, and clean up / repair if needed the panel behind it, before plug welding or spot welding if you have one the new piece on. From your pic I'd expect the area behind the guttering to be ok once its cleaned up. Its not bulging between the spotwelds too much yet so you may be lucky!
cheers
Iain
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Lukey
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Post by Lukey »

Manual ordered, I also ordered some of the pre fabbed guttering. I was planning to cut it with a 4.5 angle grinder with 1mm cutting disk, that sound about right?
'67 Morris 1000
Mogwai
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Post by Mogwai »

When I replaced a section the guttering on mine I just drilled out the spotwelds in the gutter with a spotweld drillbit so no risk of damaging the roof panel from chiseling/grinding etc
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