Trunnion replacement- getting ...on with it

Post by **Dru** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:01 am

The front suspension on the Trav is getting clunky and orrible, and the upper trunnions are very waggly. So I'm going to replace them, and the postie has just delivered a full set of upper and lower trunnions.

I want to have everything at hand before I start dismantling, as the Trav is my only (motorised) transport, and I want to avoid any down time while waiting on parts.

So a question: is it worth having new bushes ready to put in if needs be at any stage of this particular job?

Having read the saga of the swivel pins, I am of course hoping to heck that the ones on the car prove OK.

And, can I do this job without uncoupling the front brake lines? -I hate bleeding brakes.

****

I've now had the Trav for just over two years, and have just totted up the mileage we've done together. So far, it's 29,202. Allowing for an optimistic speedo (overstates speed by about 10%) it still seems like quite a lot... o well, keep on keeping on

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:19 am

If you're still on rubber bushes it might be worth thinking about upgrading to polybushes while you've got everything apart.

You should be able to do it without disconnecting the brake flexihose.

Fingers crossed for you that your swivel pin threads are OK.

Well done on the mileage!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:30 am

That is a good mileage - would be interesting to know what it works out to at P per mile ? The speedo may overstate speed by 10% - but is it accurate on the mileometer ?
You should definitely fit poly top trunnion bushes if the car doesn't have them already. And of course - you need grease and a grease gun ! No need to disconnect brakes - but may be easier if you have a ball-joint splitter to be able to undo the track rod end - although this is not essntial - it would allow complete removal of the king-pin for cleaning and thorough inspection.

Post by **Dru** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:00 pm

Thank you, chaps

Advice noted, Alex. Since I was impatient to get started, I've been undoing stuff even though I don't have the poly bushes yet. All good practice...

I've had a few goes at noting mileage and fuel-put-in, BMC, but I always end up forgetting to log a refuel somewhere and then lose the plot. Certainly drinks a lot less than my old Sierra, though...

I'd never even heard of a ball joint splitter until this morning. Just tried to split the joint with a sprocket puller, and after three attempts (I hope one day to recover feeling in my right hand... ouch...) gave up and went and bought the Proper Tool For The Job.

Back to it then

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 4:54 pm

Can be done with two large hammers - not painful provided you keep your thumbs out of the way.

Post by **Dru** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:36 pm

Hammers? *cover your ears, Trav*

There seemed to be a definite air of "J'y suis, j'y reste" about that ball joint. I put the splitter on and wound it up good and tight, then bimbled off to find the mallet, when POP - off it came all on its lonesome.

...and then it started raining, so I put everything back together again and went in. Tomorrow is another day.

Post by **aupickup** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:19 pm

yes you should be able to pull the rear back plate off, after taking off the wheel bearing and hub, no need to undo the flexi

good luck

Post by **Dru** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:05 pm

Thanks, AU

Today I did the starboard trunnions.

It was pretty straightforward, happily enough. There was a bit of wear on the upper trunnion, but it was chiefly the bushes that were shot

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belvedere/3348816661/" title="trunnion by Dru Marland, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3575/334 ... 089d9f.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="trunnion" /></a>

...and pulling the taper off the damper arm was, at a conservative estimate, three separate bastards. I used release oil, a blowtorch, the joint splitter, a copper mallet, and a cup of tea.

Onwards and upwards!

Post by **alex_holden** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:50 pm

You don't actually need to remove the pin from the damper arm unless you're planning to replace it.

Post by **Dru** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 6:13 pm

I was sore tempted to leave it on there, especially after the first few attempts to remove it had failed; but I figured that since I had a new one it would be better to replace it; the old one is quite pitted, as you can see.

No idea how much, if any, movement of the bush relative to the pin takes place, but it's nice to know it's all fresh and new, and liberally coated with silicone grease.

Post by **ASL642** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 6:19 pm

It's the cup of tea that always get it shifted in the end!

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 7:28 pm

regaliaqueen wrote:It's the cup of tea that always get it shifted in the end!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:10 pm

Well done shifting that pin - but really not necessary! These are the bushes that MUST be changed to polyurethane !

Post by **Dru** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:43 am

It's the cup of tea that always get it shifted in the end

..always best not to rush into anything, I says

I agree, BMCE; unfortunately I didn't have any to hand yesterday, but I shall get some poly bushes for the port side and replace these rubber ones ...when I get a chance

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 9:49 am

Make it a very top priority!

Post by **Dru** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:06 am

Yay! Did the other side too. And I left the damper arm pin in place, this time; it cleaned up fairly well with some emery.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belvedere/3355721658/" title="Armstrong damper by Dru Marland, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3561/335 ... c1b3_m.jpg" width="225" height="240" alt="Armstrong damper" /></a>

...having got this far, I checked the movement of tha damper, and found that it was not doing its job at all properly; moving very freely and then sort of clunking.

Lack of oil. Topped it up and it was right as rain again.

Must be more rigorous in following the scheduled maintenance routine...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:01 am

Well done - you would be wise to completely change the oil in the dampers. The old oil will be thin and probably v 'smelly' - it's long-chain molecules having been ripped apart after years of being forced through small orifices!! Changing to 10W40 engine oil will retain the original damping spec and you will notice a good improvement in the ride! Of course - 20W50 will be better, and even more viscous oils can be used - but start off with a straight oil change and then decide.

Post by **aupickup** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:02 am

is that engine oil bmc

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:06 am

Yes indeed!

Post by **Dru** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:57 am

Ha- and therein lies a tale. I changed the oil in all the dampers about two years ago, and it was indeed seven shades of manky. My local car bits shop didn't have the manual-recommended stuff (20/20?) and suggested ISO 32, which is a hydraulic oil. The last of which I have just used up, topping up the for'ard dampers.

Next on the to-do list is to have a Serious Look at the rear dampers. As I quite often have a fair old load in the car, perhaps it would be as well to trade up to 20W/50. Is there any risk of it overstressing the seals in the dampers, though, do you suppose?