spark plug / points gap
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- Newbie
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spark plug / points gap
As a complete novice I have just started to help afriend restore a 1968 Morri 1000 traveller. Hasn't been started for a couple of years. Could someone please tell me the plug & point gap settings as a starting point. I may well be a regular poster on here picking your brains.
Thanks for any help in advance
Thanks for any help in advance
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- Minor Addict
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Hi Martin, You might want to add your location as you might be able to obtain more local assistance in future. I am/was a bit of a novice as well but find this site an invaluable source of help and I'm sure you will also find the same.
Plug gap is 0.025 and points gap 0.010 to 0.012
Someone BMC I think has an online manual they can give you alink to which might come in handy.
Cheers, Jeff
Plug gap is 0.025 and points gap 0.010 to 0.012
Someone BMC I think has an online manual they can give you alink to which might come in handy.
Cheers, Jeff
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- Minor Legend
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Hello Martin,
I concur with the plug gap at 25 thou but points should be set at 15 thou. The more accurately you set the points the better it will run, put a little smear grease onto the cam of the distributor and a couple of drops of oil down the top of the spindle, once you have removed the rotor arm.
Alec
I concur with the plug gap at 25 thou but points should be set at 15 thou. The more accurately you set the points the better it will run, put a little smear grease onto the cam of the distributor and a couple of drops of oil down the top of the spindle, once you have removed the rotor arm.
Alec
No, not really. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. I really don't want to get into a major discussion about 3 thou thanks....Alec wrote:Hello PSL184,
I beg to differ, would you care to double check your manual,
Alec
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Hello BMCE,
we had a discussion on another thread regarding the overheating of coils, the longer the points are closed the more heat is put into the coil.
The specification of 14 to 16 thou is for a reason so why be sloppy? Certainly the Minor engine is very tolerant as it is not very demanding of it's ignition system. I'm sure you are well aware of the requirement the Cooper S engine had for stiffer points springs to give reliable ignition at the higher revs that engine was likely to run at, to keep an adequate saturation time. If closing the points gap would do that as you suggest surely that was an answer?
Alec
we had a discussion on another thread regarding the overheating of coils, the longer the points are closed the more heat is put into the coil.
The specification of 14 to 16 thou is for a reason so why be sloppy? Certainly the Minor engine is very tolerant as it is not very demanding of it's ignition system. I'm sure you are well aware of the requirement the Cooper S engine had for stiffer points springs to give reliable ignition at the higher revs that engine was likely to run at, to keep an adequate saturation time. If closing the points gap would do that as you suggest surely that was an answer?
Alec
The stiffer points on the S dizzy - along with the trapezoidal shape of the cam block - was to delay points bounce, especially on the 999 engine where racing units were being pushed to 10,000 rpm (= 5,000 dizzy rpm). They also used the better 'SA' coil - I don't think coil heating has ever been a problem - except when cars are left with ignition switched on and engine not running!


