Indicators won't self-cancel

Post by **Sidney'61** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:24 am

The indicators on my 1963 have decided they don't want to self-cancel, what's most likely to be the problem?

Thanks

Post by **mike.perry** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 11:22 am

There should be a peg on the steering column which cancels the indicator when the steering wheel is straightened. Never did like self cancelling indicators anyway.

Post by **Lukey** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 11:53 am

Morris indicators are supposed to self cancel? Mine have never done that.

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:55 pm

The switch and the steering column both need to be correctly positioned so that (a) the small peg in the column is pointing to the right when the front wheels are pointing straight ahead; and (b) the two small catches on the switch get caught by the peg as it passes them.

It's usually obvious once you have removed the cowling from the switch, but the theory is that the peg moves past a spring-loaded catch as you turn to the left or right, then as you straighten up the peg catches on the springloaded bit a flicks the indicator off.

Post by **Sidney'61** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:44 pm

Thanks, I'll have a look.

mike.perry wrote:Never did like self cancelling indicators anyway.

Wouldn't usually be a problem but the steering wheel is the perfect size to block the flashing light so you can't see it's on, thus my dad being a modern BMW driver forgets to switch it off everytime he drives it

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:12 pm

I thought that the problem with BMW drivers was that they regarded indicators as optional extras and never switched the things on in the first place!

Post by **Sidney'61** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:39 pm

simmitc wrote:I thought that the problem with BMW drivers was that they regarded indicators as optional extras and never switched the things on in the first place!

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:09 pm

BTW, to remove the cowling from the indicator switch you also need to remove the steering wheel. As fitting a socket to the retaining nut will short the horn connection to earth, you need to disconnect the battery (earth lead first) before trying to remove the wheel, otherwise you'll deafen yourself with the horn.

Incorrect tracking adjustment (as in the process used, rather than implying that the tracking is out of adjustment) can affect the position of the peg on the column. If you need to move the column round a few degrees, undo and remove the pinch bolt at the bottom, lift the column off the rack, turn it as required, and then refit, making sure to do the bolt up tight.

The peg is also adjustable, and might simply need screwing out a turn or two. There is (or should be) a lock nut to hold it in place.

If moving the column or the switch, be careful to ensure that the copper contact from the switch bears correctly on the ring around the column - this is what allows the horn to work.

So many things to look at; but it really is very simple when you see it in situ. Good luck.

Post by **Sidney'61** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:15 pm

Cool, thanks Simon.

I'll get round to it once I've finished my coursework

Post by **PSL184** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:19 pm

simmitc wrote:BTW, to remove the cowling from the indicator switch you also need to remove the steering wheel. As fitting a socket to the retaining nut will short the horn connection to earth, you need to disconnect the battery (earth lead first) before trying to remove the wheel, otherwise you'll deafen yourself with the horn.

or just pull the wire off the horn connection ;-)

Post by **mike.perry** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:34 am

Take the fuse out?

Post by **Sidney'61** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:53 pm

Or just electricute yourself... much more fun...