Fitting LCV Headlining

Post by **fweddy** » Thu Mar 11, 2004 1:17 am

I'm working on getting my headlining back in to my ute. I've repaired the wooden bit that goes across the back of the cab and bolts through to the back. How and when am I best to tack the lining to the wooden strip and fit the finisher? Any one got experience (or at least a theory) on this procedure?

Post by **les** » Thu Mar 11, 2004 9:53 pm

Well I did this job about 4 years ago, but don't recall the timber strip you mention. I think this is only found on the traveller. There is a shaped piece of hardboard that fits at the front (above the sun visors) this should be stapled to the cloth, it is so arranged that when folded back over the hardboard and wedged tight between the roof and internal 'gutter' enables you to work back towards the rear.( incidently the hardboard is held in place by two thin strips of metal, 1inch wide x approx 8inches long, bent over on themselves in a Z formation, 1 1/2 inches one end and 1 inch the other. if the hardboard strip is 5 1/2 inches wide you can no doubt figure out how they are incorporated, they sort of hook round the hardboard the other end springing into the 'gutter' to hold things in place, sorry not easy to explain.) As you progress back towards the loadbay you should have a metal bar that is formed to fit the roof profile(side to side) this passes through a sewn in cloth tube in the headlining, it is sprung into place, as you get to the rear the material wraps around the cab roof flange and is held in place with a plasticy strip fitted in the same manner as the door rubbers; ie tapped into place trapping the lining.
One more thing to mention is this, and it's not going to be easy to describe! There are narrow strips of hardboard stuck to the edges of the material that when dropped down the 'gutters' above each door, wedge the sides of the rooflining pulling it tight. This has been a bit long winded but hopefully you can get some clues from it.

Post by **fweddy** » Thu Mar 11, 2004 11:48 pm

Thanks les - all clear on the hardboard at the front and the metal clips etc - also no problem with the centre cross bar.

as you get to the rear the material wraps around the cab roof flange and is held in place with a plasticy strip fitted in the same manner as the door rubbers; ie tapped into place trapping the lining.

All LCVs I've seen have the roof lining tacked to a strip of about 1cm think ply cut in a curve. The bolts which hold the cab back or van body on go through this strip of ply too. The headlining is tacked to this strip then a peice of hardboard type stuff covered in the rooflining material is screwed through the lining into the ply strip. This hides away the bolts, tacks etc. I'm trying to figue how to tack it on and get the lining tight and making it nice and even. I'm also trying to better imagine the way you have explained.

There are narrow strips of hardboard stuck to the edges of the material that when dropped down the 'gutters' above each door, wedge the sides of the rooflining pulling it tight.

Hmm that's new to me too. Are they not normally more like the cars with the wire pulling it tight on the sides? The sides don't appear to be presenting a problem any way.

Post by **fweddy** » Fri Mar 12, 2004 12:30 am

To save trying to understand what I'm saying just try and figure this...

Look anything like your one les?

If this is standard some one will know how to fit it. I haven't tried but figure there has to be a sequence to it. Does the front of the headlining go in first or the rear?

Post by **les** » Fri Mar 12, 2004 10:05 pm

Well as I say, it's not that easy to describe, starting with your first point I know of this curved piece of timber fitted to the cab join, together with the cloth covered trim that screws over it, and on further investigation the curved timber IS fitted to my pick-up, but the cloth covered trim piece is not, what I have done is to stretch the lining past the joint line as shown in your drawing and folded it up round the last lip (cab back lip) then secured it with a U section strip tapped in place, before I described this strip as similar to the door aperture seals. This in effect puts the lining about an inch lower than your diagram shows and covers the cab/cab back joint (which is above the lining) This looks very neat as it hides the rubber gasket but it could be argued that if the joint started to leak the headlining would be the first to know! To sum up I would say your method is probably more original, and as regards fitting to the curved timber if you can pull the lining tight evenly along the width then a staple gun might be the best way to fix it, using the trim piece to give that last grip. You may stand more chance of it being even if there are several hands!
The original linings did have hardboard tacked to the side, as I have an old lining with this feature, I have seen saloons with the wire. I put my lining in 'front first'. Your diagram is 1st class, did you draw it then take a photo?

Post by **dennis** » Sat Mar 13, 2004 12:45 am

hi fweddy and les

well i have sen both methods, although the method by les is more common.

on my van, the headling is original, it has the hardboard strips down each side of the headling, and the door seal type cover strip at the the back, the headling is attached by clips on the metal cab back, and then the cover strip goes over the headlining, clips and metal.
this is also the same as my pick up.
i do have the ply strip that fweddy is on about also, not on anything though.
neither of my commercials have any kind of wire that pulls tight.
although agin i have a headling from a commercial that does have these wires at the front, although i can not vouch that is is original or not.

will say a very difficult thing to explain.
good drawing

Post by **fweddy** » Sat Mar 13, 2004 9:01 am

Thanks for both your ideas - all makes sense. All my LCVs (3) have my above explained/illustrated method of attaching. Two have the wire like a saloon which is attached to the rear of the cab back (through a hole and tied round a bolt) then pulled in the front as standard for a saloon. My ute (the one under discussion) has the same method but with a string rather than wire. It is a very late one.

Like you say Les, it seems like it will be best to try with as many hands a possible to just pull and tack as best I can. Most likely best to work from the middle out? Will have to just give it a try and face it!

Thanks for compliments - I drew the pic on the comp.

Post by **les** » Sat Mar 13, 2004 9:31 pm

Middle out sounds good to me! Good luck.