Suspension rebuild

Post by **Sidney'61** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:39 pm

So how am I supposed to be able to push the the torsion bar through the crossmember? I can't get it to budge.

Thanks

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:28 am

You slide the rear torsion bar lever arm forwards a bit on its splines, then knock the C washer off the end of the torsion bar. The difficult part is that it's likely to be badly seized if it's been a long time since the suspension was last dismantled.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:16 pm

You don't 'push it through the crossmember' - just take it off complete with the rear reaction arm. Although most don't take it off - why are you doing that ?

Post by **Sidney'61** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:31 am

I'm just trying to change the bushes, you need to move it back somehow to get to the eyebolt, i believe..
This is my first project so I don't really know what I'm doing, just doing what I'm told

Post by **Stig** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:47 am

Sidney'61 wrote:I'm just trying to change the bushes, you need to move it back somehow to get to the eyebolt, I believe..

I didn't. All I had to do was slide the rear lower suspension arm back along the splines (a few taps with a large mallet) and then bend the torsion bar out of the way. Maybe I was lucky.

Post by **jaekl** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 1:07 pm

The official procedure is to slide the rear lever (at the crossmember) forward off the spline in order to slide the torsion bar rearward so that the front fulcrum pin will be removed from the rubber bushings. This procedure applies because the cup washer on the fulcrum pin is pressed into the cast front leg. That worked great on new cars still in the factory.
Now with a couple of years exposure to the elements, the workable procedure is to slide the cast leg back as Stig mentioned. The cup washer bottoms on the end of the torsion bar and with a couple of more blows, it is free so that the bar can be dropped and removed as well as the eyebolt. The front spline will be seized as well but a few whacks with a hammer usually will break it free and the engine drippings also help to keep the rust down a bit, whereas the rear one is always being splashed with road water. The main problem with this approach is on reassembly. It takes a bit of effort to force the cup washer back into the recess in the cast suspension leg. There is nothing solid to hit against and the pressed metal leg is not strong enough to clamp it together or much room to swing a hammer to strike the front of the (protected) fulcrum pin. It will go in though after you do a little bit of all three approaches.

Post by **aupickup** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:47 pm

when taking the eye bolt out, i have not yet had to touch the rear part of the torsion bar

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:57 pm

It really is easy to get the eye bolt and the bushes out - certainly no need to do anything at the crossmember end of the T bar. Soak the splines with Release Oil - and if need be apply heat - although usually a couple of whacks with a 'wee heavy' hammer will move it along. Don't slide it right off the splines or you will lose the height setting!

Post by **Sidney'61** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:47 pm

I'm still not getting anywhere with this! I'm probably just being thick!

I've got this far:<br>

<br>
so the bush has come out of the front end but I still have no idea how to get the back end out.
And no way am I going to be able to get to that C washer even if I needed to.

Please can somebody give as step by step guide for dummies!

Post by **bpr81a** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 8:24 pm

Undo the nut on the other end of the eye bolt - that should give you enough play to jiggle it out.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:01 pm

Do you have the Workshop Manual ? If not - PM me for the download.
See page K2. As Bpr says - just undo the eyebolt and pull it out!