Complete Floor Restoration

[ADO16]

Same topic in the Series MM index:

After taking off the finisher, kick plates on all four openings it has now revealed itself having to replace the complete underside, but I'm not surprised. The only thing now is to figure out the sequence of removal and replacement.

After triangular bracing all the door openings what would be the first step? I will definitely have to replace the crossmember as well as the front rails. I step back and view this as very daunting at this point but I'm hoping that saving this will give some sort of pleasure in doing it too.
It's like, "oh my word what have I started"!!! Please, I need words from the wise!

Steve
p.s. I should have known what was in store for me when I found that mummified mouse in behind the box panel when I was vacuuming it out.

[morris62]

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... light=sill

try here

[ADO16]

Thanks for the pictures it's a good reference. What I'm trying to figure out is the starting point, in other words, do I start with removing the center crossmember first or start at one corner putting back the good metal, then finish off with the crossmember. I know how keeping things in check to ensure that in the end the door gaps will come out right. All I know is that this Morris is pretty rotted and it will be a challenge, but I'm up for the task. I thought at first when I removed the first kick plate that the box panel looked good but with further tapping with my tool revealed more damage from rust. Please more wisdom and pictures! I will post some pictures tonight.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Steve

[morris62]

it's a difficult one to say, i did inner chassis first,then floor,then chassis leg (after making a jig),then crossmember,etc
that way i could transfer measurments.
if i were to do it again i'd start with inner chassis as that holds the door gaps,then crossmember which then can be marked with front location,then front chassis legs.
simply because until i removed a front chassis leg i didn't how bad a bodged up repair was from another 'garage welder'.

[Jefftav]

Hi don't know if it helps but when my saloon was done they did the center xmember first to retain strength in the shell this was before they did the floors and chassis legs. Jeff

[ADO16]

Thanks for all the info this has been most helpful. As daunting as this project may seem it's nice to know it can be done as you all know by your experience.
The most disturbing thing is every time I uncover something I tell myself "that's another thing I have to fix"!
If you guys happen to have more pictures...post them up, it's more encouraging.

Steve

[britab1967]

Hi, I suppose the route you take has got to depend on what good material you have to attach to.
In my case, the floor, sills, bottom of A and B pillars and crossmember rotted away plus front of one chassis leg.
So, one side at a time, I've cross braced the door opening and between the B pillars, cut away the boxing plate (with holes in) and welded in new attached to bottom of kidney panel and B pillar flat upright bit.
Then cut away the sill and floor, replacing sill (with sill strengthener welded in before fitting - only needed on traveller & convertable) and inner sill and outer sill.
The curve on the sill parts was different to that on the floor and strengthener which lead to some head scratching before re-fitting the door to ensure that everything looked ok there, working back and cutting and welding things to fit.
Once one side done, replace the other side and then the crossmember.

Anything is possible with time and patience, so good luck and ask any questions as they arrise. I'm sure some of these good people will be able to help.

P.s. I've managed to turn Molly on her side after welding in the drivers side floor which has made things soooo much easier, but I can now see the rest of the floor rearwards needs replacing.

Brian